Overheating problem.

[XYZ]

Originally Posted by johnlvs2run

That's great news. Maybe the head gasket is okay.

Have you tried taking the thermostat out?

I don't recall if you've done a flush with a hose.

Maybe there is a buildup / blockage somewhere that can be flushed out with a hose.

Wish I could post that link without it opening up.

Verrrry interesting! What a coincidence!

The car I had my problem with was a similar Toyota Celica of that vintage (late '80's). I never thought to flush the engine block. Everyone knows about flushing the radiator, but we don't think of having a clogged block.

[Baltothewolf]

Originally Posted by XYZ

Verrrry interesting! What a coincidence!

The car I had my problem with was a similar Toyota Celica of that vintage (late '80's). I never thought to flush the engine block. Everyone knows about flushing the radiator, but we don't think of having a clogged block.

Yea same here. I think I'll do that tomorrow or sometime this week. I didn't consider the block itself might have restrictive flow.

[ksa8907]

Originally Posted by Baltothewolf

I just bled it again and whenever I apply throttle, the coolant in the tube that's connected to the bleeder turns a whiteish color with micro-bubbles. Also whenever I try to bleed the system it keeps sucking the coolant from the bleeder into the dang recovery bottle. It's extremely aggravating.

How do I check the timing? This car has a timing chain.

No I bought it from a guy on CL. I took it for a 45 min drive the first day I went and looked at it, and it never overheated. Where I bought it from it's generally flat terrain everywhere. Considering it has to be going uphill to get stressed enough to overheat, I'm not really inclined to think he knew, but then again, who knows.

The car has a major exhaust leak where the pipe connects to the cat, it sounds like it's unrestricted.

If you are EVER getting air bubbles out of you coolant, you need to continue to bleed the system. ANY air left can create an overheating issue. Your cooling system operates under pressure to avoid boiling the coolant, if there is a slug of air or "micro bubbles" it will compress and lower the pressure in the system which will cause your coolant to boil.


As old mech has stated, if all the air has been removed, those "micro bubbles" are coming from a blown headgasket.

If you are sure its not the head gasket, inspect all coolant hoses and verify there are no leaks and the hose clamps are tight.

Bottom line is, air is getting in and causing your car to overheat. Find out where.

[Xist]

Have you pulled the spark plugs? I have heard sometimes you have antifreeze dripping off of those, which is a bad sign.

ScottyKilmer.com recommended Real Steel for head gasket leaks. I may have lost all respect for him right there, the Hugh Jackman movie might be better for your car than some weird product, but he pointed out that there were not any dissolved solids, so it should not clog anything. I also like Eric the Car Guy, but find Scotty to be slightly annoying. Here Eric shows parts after someone uses Stop Leak and it messed up everything:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76GpMD4LIwY

[Baltothewolf]

Ok so I just tested the coolant system with a pressure tester and the results create even more confusion...

The pressure slowly, slowly drops when it's cold, and same results when it's hot.

This is when the engine is fully hot.



After 5 minutes.


After ~9 minutes.


13 Minutes.


~20 minutes.


I'll stop there, but you get the picture. What does this mean...? I'm so confused, I checked every hose and everything and didn't see any sign of leaking nor did I hear anything hissing.

I would also like to add this, my radiator fans kick on at 207 then kick off the second I drop to 204. Shouldn't they be staying on a little longer then that?

[ksa8907]

30psi? Actually, the gauge is pegged, its over 30psi! Judging by the other pictures im assuming the car uses a 16psi cap. Have you replaced the pressure cap yet?

Does that tool go in place of the pressure cap?

Im saying head gasket, pushing combustion gases into the coolant. Thats where your bubbles and extra pressure are coming from.

[user removed]

Did you read the "Caution 30 PSI systems only" warning on the pressure tester, BEFORE the red zone. You had the pressure tester pegged, not good. I doubt your system is over 15 PSI.

It's totally normal for pressure to drop as the engine cools down. Coolant expands as it gets hotter, contracts as it cools.

Try it cold, it should hold pressure, but don't peg the tester again unless you want to create leaks that may not exist now.

Get back to us with the cold test results, if it does not hold pressure pull the plugs and look for coolant in the cylinders with a pen light.

regards
mech

[user removed]

It might run rough (miss) when you start it up after that test and it might blow a little steam out the exhaust if coolant is getting into one of the cylinders.

regards
mech

[Baltothewolf]

Old mechanic, when I tested it cold, I only put it at 16PSI. That 30PSI is when the engine got hot while I had it plugged in. It was at 0Psi when I started the hot test.

Oh also, I tested for that, I pumped it to 16psi and let it drop to ~8 twice when it was cold, then had my brother start the car. No rough running, no steam, nothing.

[user removed]

Already posted I think it a head gasket. Cold it should hold pressure. Starting the engine with the tester installed and then letting pressure gauge max out is a terrible idea. You could blow a lot of things with that much pressure.

If it's loosing pressure cold, the you tell me where that pressure is going in a sealed system. I've already told you where I think it is going and that you will not be absolutely certain until you visually inspect the head gasket.

I can smell the coolant from a leaking head gaskt following the car on the highway, smells kind of sweet.

regards
mech