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Old 09-11-2014, 07:12 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic View Post
Now if you climb a steep grade like before what does it read? That's a stress test and it will probably go higher than other times. When that reading (after climbing a steep grade) causes the temp to skyrocket but there is no air bubble and the cooling system operates normally otherwise, you need a radiator.

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Another possibility is that his cooling fan isn't coming on as it should.

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Old 09-11-2014, 08:26 PM   #42 (permalink)
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You should replace your pressure cap if you haven't yet. If its bad the system can't pressurize.
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:16 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Soo... I overheated again going to my friends house, but I noticed the reservoir level isn't moving??? It's the same exact level dead cold as it was when I got here and the engine was 224...
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:43 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Are you sure the thermostat is in the right position?

How... old... is the radiator?
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:52 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Are you sure the thermostat is in the right position?

How... old... is the radiator?
100% sure. And I honestly don't know how old it is.
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Old 09-11-2014, 09:57 PM   #46 (permalink)
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If it was my car I would replace the radiator after I knew the cooling fans were working properly as XYZ pointed out.

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Old 09-11-2014, 09:58 PM   #47 (permalink)
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Quote:
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If it was my car I would replace the radiator after I knew the cooling fans were working properly as XYZ pointed out.

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A new radiator is 150$ and I don't have that kind do of money right now :/...

The OEM radiator is 205.

Last edited by Baltothewolf; 09-11-2014 at 10:04 PM..
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Old 09-11-2014, 10:04 PM   #48 (permalink)
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Then run the heater when it gets hot regardless of the outside temperature. The additional cooling provided by the heater core should make the temp drop. 224 is not that terrible. Mercedes stated that their diesels could run as hot as 256 in extreme heat conditions like Houston Texas, but they were cast iron blocks and heads.

If a radiator is out of the budget range right now, you certainly don't want to risk a head gasket.

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Old 09-11-2014, 10:54 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Then run the heater when it gets hot regardless of the outside temperature. The additional cooling provided by the heater core should make the temp drop. 224 is not that terrible. Mercedes stated that their diesels could run as hot as 256 in extreme heat conditions like Houston Texas, but they were cast iron blocks and heads.

If a radiator is out of the budget range right now, you certainly don't want to risk a head gasket.

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Agreed. I'm gonna stop driving it in the daytime and just drive it only to work. I have the Mustang to drive to my friends house and stuff.
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Old 09-11-2014, 11:23 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Quote:
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If it was my car I would replace the radiator after I knew the cooling fans were working properly as XYZ pointed out.

regards
mech
Thanks.

On a Toyota I once owned it had a very similar problem. It only overheated when under heat stress, such as on very hot days or climbing hills. It ran fine with no overheating in every season except summer. Rather than diagnose which sensor was bad, I wired both the A/C fan and the rad fan to come on instead of just the one rad fan, as was intended. That was a practical solution, but it didn't ultimately get to the source of the problem, which was apparently that of the fan control circuit.

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