09-11-2014, 11:33 PM
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#51 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Can I open the bleeder valve when the engine is hot? Does anyone know? I would like to bleed the system again when I get home.
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09-11-2014, 11:52 PM
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#52 (permalink)
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
Can I open the bleeder valve when the engine is hot? Does anyone know? I would like to bleed the system again when I get home.
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After six pages of discussion, including some great detailed advice from Old Mech, IMO it's time for you to re-read and digest all the advice that was already given to you.
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The Following User Says Thank You to XYZ For This Useful Post:
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09-12-2014, 03:15 AM
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#53 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XYZ
After six pages of discussion, including some great detailed advice from Old Mech, IMO it's time for you to re-read and digest all the advice that was already given to you.
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Yea I know. I am just gonna get a new radiator. I keep getting told by the people at Orileys it might be the water pump, but I know it's not because the heater wouldn't work very well, if at all if it was the water pump. Annoying people at Orileys sheesh.
[Edit]: What do you guys think about this radiator? Because It's about 70-100$ MORE for the OEM radiator. Orileys has one made by Murray that's 155 and that one has a lifetime warranty.
[Edit again]: If I get a new radiator, and hoses (which I am gonna do) through majestichonda, it's gonna cost me $276, if I get them through orileys, it's gonna cost $201.
[Edit of the edit of the edit]: A good friend of mine knows a mechanic shop that can do the hotspot test on the radiator and they only charge 20 bucks, so I'm gonna go tomorrow and get that done before I do anything else.
Last edited by Baltothewolf; 09-12-2014 at 03:39 AM..
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09-12-2014, 06:01 AM
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#54 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Parents gave me the money to get a new radiator. My dad knows a guy who replaces radiators, gave me a discount, only 124+tax for a new radiator. I'll go get it and hoses, and change it out before I go to work tomorrow.
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09-12-2014, 06:19 AM
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#55 (permalink)
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Master EcoWalker
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You could check the pump with a ampere meter, if it does not draw current it is broke.
It could be the thermostat valve not opening fully too.
I had one that did not close on my Civic, and again on my Pan European, telling me Honda had issues on that.
__________________
2011 Honda Insight + HID, LEDs, tiny PV panel, extra brake pad return springs, neutral wheel alignment, 44/42 PSI (air), PHEV light (inop), tightened wheel nut.
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For confirmation go to people just like you.
For education go to people unlike yourself.
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09-12-2014, 06:24 AM
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#56 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDevil
You could check the pump with a ampere meter, if it does not draw current it is broke.
It could be the thermostat valve not opening fully too.
I had one that did not close on my Civic, and again on my Pan European, telling me Honda had issues on that.
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I just put in a new thermostat and I tested it in a pot of water before I put it in and made sure it opens all the way. And it's a belt driven pump, not electric, unless of course I'm an idiot and it does draw current somehow.
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09-12-2014, 06:28 AM
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#57 (permalink)
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Master EcoWalker
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Sorry. I'm the idiot. I should have checked the G1 pump system before posting.
__________________
2011 Honda Insight + HID, LEDs, tiny PV panel, extra brake pad return springs, neutral wheel alignment, 44/42 PSI (air), PHEV light (inop), tightened wheel nut.
lifetime FE over 0.2 Gmeter or 0.13 Mmile.
For confirmation go to people just like you.
For education go to people unlike yourself.
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09-12-2014, 06:50 AM
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#58 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedDevil
Sorry. I'm the idiot. I should have checked the G1 pump system before posting.
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Lol no worries, any input/ help is appreciated. I'm not to sure why honda opted for the belt water pump myself.
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09-12-2014, 08:18 AM
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#59 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
Can I open the bleeder valve when the engine is hot? Does anyone know? I would like to bleed the system again when I get home.
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Hot is when you want to open the bleeder. The pressure in the system helps with bleeding. Only bleed cold when you have replaced a component that required draining the coolant.
Don't expect your buddy who is installing the radiator to drive the car for a week and thoroughly bleed it daily. Every time the system is opened up the bleeding process starts again from scratch.
regards
mech
Last edited by user removed; 09-12-2014 at 08:25 AM..
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09-12-2014, 08:20 AM
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#60 (permalink)
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Furry Furfag
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Mechanic
Hot is when you want to open the bleeder. The pressure in the system helps with bleeding. Only bleed cold when you have replaced a component that required draining the coolant.
Don't expect your buddy who is installing the radiator to drive the car for a week and thoroughly bleed it daily. Every time the system isopenedup the bleeding process starts again from scratch.
regards
mech
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I'm gonna be swapping out the radiator. I'll be bleeding it twice a day for a week.
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