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Old 03-08-2010, 02:45 AM   #3111 (permalink)
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oh heck ya! No, the software is already on the chip. Oh please work! It's always really really scary for me to push the gas pedal for the first time. 150 things all done perfectly.... sure no problem. I can't wait to hear how it turns out! Try just hooking up the 12v battery power first, maybe with the throttle disconnected or something, and see if the led blinks really fast.

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Old 03-08-2010, 08:09 AM   #3112 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
12v-12v dc-dc from Cincon for high side drive, and had problems with it. I need to make a new control board, and use the POWEREX VLA106-24151 or something like that.
I'm looking into making a discrete DC-DC converter for the high side drive power supply.

A discrete DC-DC converter could be put together a fraction of the cost of a DC-DC converter module, with same or higher power output. Also if a separate gate driver PCB is used it makes sense to place the DC-DC converter on the gate driver PCB. That way a separate gate driver PCB could be made for MOSFETS (12V) and IGBTS (15V). And one standard controller could be used for both

-Mark
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Old 03-08-2010, 12:57 PM   #3113 (permalink)
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Paul, I connected the 12 volts, but the LEDs did not come on. I'll start checking other areas on the control board for voltage. Any suggestions?
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Old 03-08-2010, 01:04 PM   #3114 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatmann100 View Post
Paul, I connected the 12 volts, but the LEDs did not come on. I'll start checking other areas on the control board for voltage. Any suggestions?
I would start by checking the orientation of diode D1.

Also check your polarity of the 12V supply and that it is above the minimum 9V.

-Adam
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Old 03-08-2010, 01:19 PM   #3115 (permalink)
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Hi, Adam, As per the board and pictures D1 is correct, my battery is at 13.1 volts. Power as it enters the board is 13.1 V. Odd but at the Dc to Dc input to converter there is only 6.7 volts....

Be right back have to run errand.

Mike
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Old 03-08-2010, 04:06 PM   #3116 (permalink)
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Adam, for the moment it looks like the dc converter is not putting anything out. I need to raise the board off the assembly to get behind to the trace points.
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Old 03-08-2010, 04:10 PM   #3117 (permalink)
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Hello! Are you sure there is 12v going into the DC-DC? How about the 5v output? Is it showing around 5v? By the way, the DC-Dc output ground is different from the 5v ground.
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Old 03-08-2010, 04:28 PM   #3118 (permalink)
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Hi Paul, my 1st check showed 13.1v entering board, but only 6.7 on the input pins of the DC-DC. I will lift the board a little for a 2nd check. I can't see why I would loose any voltage from the input on the board in that short distance. Will be heading for work in a bit so I may not get to do anything more today.
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Old 03-08-2010, 04:30 PM   #3119 (permalink)
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That is mysterious!!! Can you take pics later???
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Old 03-08-2010, 05:19 PM   #3120 (permalink)
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I know what this is. happened to me when i put a tantalum cap in backwards. dc dc goes into some sort of foldback limiting.

On a different note the igbt controller got a workout today. We arranged a transporter truck to move the car to a different location. Its one of these tilt bed setups. Long story short i ended up climbing a 45 degree tilted bed pulling 320 battery amps , foot to the floor and both rear wheels burning rubber. Heatsink went from 5C to 15C. Tow truck guys jaw hit the ground!

also had a chance to compare the ev with a stock bmw e36 and its sitting WAY higher on the suspension. Really good news.

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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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