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Old 10-22-2010, 08:05 AM   #3891 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
Hopefully. Ain't nothing like actually trying it. What I think will happen is, the batteries sag right when the current goes up, so it probably won't get close to 200v. The spikes increase when the current increases, and the overall battery voltage drops, so everything is perfect!
Should get a good test from my pack, I'm using A123s. I had planned on building my pack to 156v to compensate for sag. Is this something I should be concerned about? If so, should I consider building the unit with some different mosfets? Possibly TO-263 IGBT's?


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Old 10-24-2010, 07:13 AM   #3892 (permalink)
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Here's a few pics of a new controller build i'm undertaking. Its for a friend in the uk with a modest 72v system. Its being built with mostly recycled hardware and i'm putting together a series of videos on the process :
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:01 AM   #3893 (permalink)
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Looks like over compensation with those lytics

Very nice work. It's a shame to use 450V caps for a 72V system, but if they are salvaged......

BTW where did those come from?

JAK
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Old 10-24-2010, 08:07 AM   #3894 (permalink)
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Most of the bits came from scrap inverter welders and plasma cutters. I have a friend who owns a welder repair shop and every now and again he calls me to come clean the place out of all the machines that people basically abandoned. The caps came from a 3 phase plasma cuter. I know the hv caps are sort of wasted BUT that hv tolerance can only help with spikes etc.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 10-24-2010, 10:35 AM   #3895 (permalink)
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Few more pics of the casing , end caps and fan mounting. End caps are 6mm polycarbonate.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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Old 10-25-2010, 01:28 AM   #3896 (permalink)
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Hi again,
Well ever since I recieved some good advice here on the forum about my controller, I have now completed my Ford Ranger and it goes better than I had hoped for. I will be sending it in for its final registration inspection next week and hope to have it on the road within 2 weeks time. I'm really lookin forward to putting some EV miles on it. Thanks to you kind folks here, I have been able to solve most of my mysterious problems with it. I am however not finished asking questions though. I need the make a DC-DC converted (120v - 14.1V) to keep my vehicle battery (12volt) continiously charged. I have obtained a controller with a faulty primary board off a golf cart. I have replaced the mosfets with ones of higher operating voltages and replaced the caps with higher specs too (140v). Will I be able to use this as a dc-dc converter if I use a simple PWM made with a 555 IC and set the voltage to say 14 volts. I obviously don't need more than 20 amps max, so I can cut down on the number if Mosfets that I use. That's my theory anyway.
Any help here will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-25-2010, 04:33 AM   #3897 (permalink)
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Sadly that won't work as you need an isolated converter. You could make a buck converter with that old controller but it would not be isolated from the traction pack and going from 120v to 12v would be at the lower limit of that design. Sad as it is to say its not really worth doing homebrew. You can pickup a 600w dc dc for less than 100usd these days. Or look at modifying a powersupply.
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:42 AM   #3898 (permalink)
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More pics
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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
www.evbmw.com
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Old 10-25-2010, 11:49 AM   #3899 (permalink)
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more pics
nice !!!
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:38 PM   #3900 (permalink)
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Has there ever been a case where the board simply will not work even though the warning light (yellow LED) stays lit doesn't blink? right now I have the it hooked to my power section and the car is on jack stands I twisted the throttle and nothing happened then I took it off the stands and put my foot on the pedal nothing happened??

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