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Old 03-22-2012, 01:33 PM   #5611 (permalink)
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C4DEFPQ6380A8TK Kemet DC Link Film Capacitors

That's a good one also. Little higher uF.

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Old 03-22-2012, 01:36 PM   #5612 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AviatorBJP View Post
So what do you guys think of this IGBT and this Capacitor being used in the power section of a controller? Keep in mind that I am planning on 192 volts, and maybe, just maybe 300V.

IGBT: FZ600R12KE3 (probably overkill for me)
1200 Volts, 900 Amps
$165.35 from IGBT/MOSFET Modules :: IGBT Modules single :: FZ600R12KE3 - QJYelec.com ----Professional solutions for Power Semiconductor

Capacitor: 944U161K801ABM (might need two?)
800 Volts, 160uF
$62.16 from Digikey. CAP FILM 160UF 800VDC SCREW - 944U161K801ABM

I can provide datasheets if you guys would like them.

Alright, Im going to chime in now.

The controller Isaac is talking about, Is my creation. It is a 1000A continuous(still being verified) controller that is built using top quality components. The capacitor is a SBE Power Ring film capacitor that is 1000uF and 600V. At 20kHz, the cap is rated to handle 500Arms all the way up to 70C, and with proper cooling, all the way to 85C. Even at 100C, its still good for about 290A.

The IGBT's are 3 hand matched Powerex CM400DU-12F 400A 600V igbt's. These modules are designed for switching frequencies to about the 20kHz range.

These 3 modules are driven by a driver board designed just for this controller. It uses a Powerex VLA-500 driver module at the heart, and is designed for each gate trace to be minimum inductance and all 3 are identical length. There are provisions for separate turn on and turn off gate resistors to adjust waveform accordingly.

The bus structure is made from 2 plates of 20awg copper that has been waterjet cut and professionally bent to have the proper offset. Between the plates is a piece of CNC cut mylar that is 0.003" thick. This has an isolation rating of about 15kV! Brass bolts and copper washers hold and space everything where it belongs.

Here is the controller during driver testing:

Untitled by AdamBrunette, on Flickr

The IGBT you picked out, like Isaac mentioned is only the switch. Ideally you should be looking for a half bridge module. This is a module with 2 switches, and each having their own body diode. These modules are common at the junction of Collector of switch 2 and Emitter of switch 1. This allows you to use the C1 terminal as your positive (B+, M+) bus, E2 as your negative (B-) bus and C2E1 terminals as your motor negative (M-).

As for current rating of modules, Its a good idea to stick to 2/3 to 3/4 od the modules current rating as your maximum current. For that module you chose, I would run it in the 400 to 450A range, not exceeding 500A.

The caps might be sufficient but will be run pretty hard. They have a rating of 73Arms @ 55C. With 2 of them, you have about 146A ripple current ability.

Minimally, you should have 25% ripple capacity for the maximum ripple generated. Which occurs around 50% duty cycle. So for a 500A controller, your looking at 125A ripple at 50% duty cycle. That means that your 146A ripple ability could in theory handle a 584A controller.

With 2 of those IGBT's, and 2 of the capacitors, it could be possible to build a controller good to 380-400V and 450A continuous if the bus structure is well planed out. If it is not, you will cause extra heat in the system and have to lower your ceiling.

Hope this helps!

-Adam
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:08 PM   #5613 (permalink)
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I tested the latest pile of crap that's soon to blow up. hahaha. The max-current variable is working very well. I set it to 50, and at max throttle it was actually 44.1amp (OK, so I was a bit off. stop picking on me. I'm going to punch you right in the head.)

It's just one line of code to change the calibration from current sensor ticks to amps, so I'll tweak that so it will be 50 amps when max current is 50 amps! dang it.

Also, I got the minimum current ramp rate slowed down, so that now, the slowest ramp rate to go from 0 to max-current is 8 seconds. At 1000 amps, that's like 125 amps per second. At 50 amp max current, it will feel a hair sluggish. lol.

The biggest that max-current can be set to is 9999 real life amps. hahaha. It's my way of rebelling against the "oh, don't climb that tree, you might sue me if you are injured".

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Old 03-22-2012, 02:33 PM   #5614 (permalink)
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C4DEFPQ6380A8TK Kemet DC Link Film Capacitors

That is similar to the Capacitor that Netgain is using in their Warp Drive Controller?

http://www.evsource.com/images/WarP-Drive/WDC_V009.jpg
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:58 PM   #5615 (permalink)
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OK, I got the LEE HART go-ahead for a new diode I'm going to try...

http://www.vishay.com/docs/93003/150ebu04.pdf

The 200v rating of the mosfets/diodes has been a bit of a concern to me. This takes care of the diodes. 400v should be fine for at least up to 200 or 250v. Very good drop in replacement mosfets go up to 300v. That would be good to maybe 200v nominal batteries. The caps are the only annoying thing. Higher voltage electrolytic caps are garbage. But the 200v caps are rated for 250v surges, so maybe that's fine. And it's only like $45 for a bunch of them in bulk. I could do a large pile of thru-hole ones but they are expensive. The whole point of individual components is that they're cheap. If a capacitor were a person, I'd get super mad at it.
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:03 PM   #5616 (permalink)
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@ sawickm "That is similar to the Capacitor that Netgain is using in their Warp Drive Controller?"

I don't know, but I think they are similar. I have talked to Ryan at Netgain about capacitors in the past. We live in the same area. The early models of the WD1 used many electrolytic capacitors, much like the 500AMP Open Revolt controller, but he changed the design due to uneven heating through the capacitors.

The new WD1 and WD2 are rated at 360 volts and 1400 amps! Very impressive; half a megawatt. I figured if I used a similar capacitor to what he used, I would be safe at a 200V 500A controller.

Thanks everybody for steering me in the right direction. I will do some more research!

Last edited by AviatorBJP; 03-23-2012 at 12:42 PM.. Reason: proprietary info
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Old 03-23-2012, 12:15 PM   #5617 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes View Post
C4DEFPQ6380A8TK Kemet DC Link Film Capacitors

That's a good one also. Little higher uF.
Yeah, that one seems better for what I had in mind. It's a little more expensive, but less expensive than buying two of the others.

Mouser: $116.30
Allied Electronics: $91.38

Last edited by AviatorBJP; 03-23-2012 at 12:16 PM.. Reason: grammar
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Old 03-25-2012, 02:16 PM   #5618 (permalink)
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Paul,

Do you know if the power board for your latest 1000 amp controller will accept the TO-264 mosfet as well as the TO-247 mosfet?

Thanks.....

Rick
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:13 PM   #5619 (permalink)
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Yes. Yes it does!
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:27 PM   #5620 (permalink)
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That is great. When you have some spare power boards let me know and I will send you the money. I will need a controller board also.

Thanks...
Rick

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