Paul & Sabrina's Cheap EV Conversion

[MPaulHolmes]

The spacers are now in the range of 60.2 to 60.4 mm. It was horrible, like passing a kidney stone in the shape of that cult leader. Oh what was her name? Oh ya, Oprah.

The digital calipers were the best $10 I ever spent. If I would have tried to make measurements with a ruler, it would have been disaster.

[MetroMPG]

You going to turn this conversion thread into a stand up routine? I'd go see it. :P

[MPaulHolmes]

So the bolts through the spacers are 5/16". They are bootleg 15 cent type. The grade 8 aerospace kind were over $1 each!

OK, hit me with it, mama! Tell me what I want to hear! The ones I bought are good enough! 12 of them! That's good enough!

mama: "yes. grade 4 is perfect for your application..."

Excellent...

I'm going to assemble that bugger tomorrow I hope... Come on, no wammy no wammy! STOP!

[dremd]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

OK, hit me with it, mama! Tell me what I want to hear! The ones I bought are good enough! 12 of them! That's good enough!

Depends on how far away from the center (shaft) the bolts are located. The farther way the more leverage (and less Load) the bolts have on the motor. You could calculate load by multiplying foot lbs exerted by the motor and the % of a foot the bolts are away(SOMEONE CHECK MY MATH I THINK I NEED THE INVERSE) from the center then make an educated decision.

Off the top of my head I say/ guess Motor mount bolts Grade 8 rest of stuff Grade 4.

[ttoyoda]

Depends on how far away from the center (shaft) the bolts are located. The farther way the more leverage (and less Load) the bolts have on the motor. You could calculate load by multiplying foot lbs exerted by the motor and the % of a foot the bolts are away(SOMEONE CHECK MY MATH I THINK I NEED THE INVERSE) from the center then make an educated decision

But in addition to this shear load I would think you need to look at the tipping load on those spacers. You have an additional tensile load on the bolts (and I think this will be a bigger number than the shear load because the spacers are longer than half their diameter) which is the motor torque divided by the radius from the motor shaft to the spacer ring, multiplied by the length of the spacer divided by half the spacer diameter, divided by the number of spacers. Assuming I did that right but I don't guarantee it. Then add something for safety (I am ass-u-ming those Al bar spacers we saw go between the bell housing and the mounting plate, if not, please ignore this)

[bennelson]

Wow, so much math figuring all that bolt load stuff out!

I think I will ask my machinist next time I see him about this.

[MPaulHolmes]

I returned the crappy grade 4 bolts to Lowe's. Mama never knew crap about nothin' anyway... They (the grade 8 bolts) are dark and scary looking, almost like you can hear them whisper when you hold them up to your ear, "I'm strong. I once killed a grade 4 bolt, just to watch it die..."

I'm not going to lie, they are intimidating. Well, a really cool update to come soon!! Then I'll do a cost breakdown, so anyone can do their own adapter plate/coupler for 'x' dollars in house, where 'x' is I have no idea, I haven't added it up yet, so back off!!!! Fine, I'll add it up right now:

2 steel plates: $15
aluminum Rod: $22 (or $23, I forgot, gall dern ripoff)
2 L-095 Lovejoys and spider: $25
Pile of Grade 8 (aaaahh!) bolts: $25
Nugget from Car: $0.00 since you already have the car!!! You stupid idiot!
3 or 4 welding rods: $0.20 or so. (to weld the nugget)
Having a grade 8 bolt ready to attack at your command: PRICELESS

Total cost: $88.20 + infinity

Not bad. Now the only question is, will that piece of crap work for longer than 10 seconds?

[dremd]

Originally Posted by ttoyoda

But in addition to this shear load I would think you need to look at the tipping load on those spacers. You have an additional tensile load on the bolts (and I think this will be a bigger number than the shear load because the spacers are longer than half their diameter) which is the motor torque divided by the radius from the motor shaft to the spacer ring, multiplied by the length of the spacer divided by half the spacer diameter, divided by the number of spacers. Assuming I did that right but I don't guarantee it. Then add something for safety (I am ass-u-ming those Al bar spacers we saw go between the bell housing and the mounting plate, if not, please ignore this)

I think you are correct.

However the bolts have already been returned so I supose it's academic now.

You may have a Nut & Bolt / Fastener store in your area. I have one in Biking distance they have 20 times more selection than Lowes and are about 1/2 the price. May be worth looking in to if you need lots more bolts.

[MPaulHolmes]

Originally Posted by dremd

You may have a Nut & Bolt / Fastener store in your area. I have one in Biking distance they have 20 times more selection than Lowes and are about 1/2 the price.

I also have a bolt store about a block away from my house. It's called Tacoma Screw. Originally, I went with the grade 4 partially because of the limited choices of grade 8 at Lowe's and Home Depot. I went there and they had everything! I just thought it would be expensive, but it wasn't!

[MPaulHolmes]

Well, I tested it, and it worked very well. I hooked it to the transmission, and the dang thing really spun quite silently! But there were some concerns that it wasn't the absolute center, and since I couldn't move the transmission around, since there was almost no room because the 12 spacer bolts were inside the bell housing hogging up all the space, I decided to drill 12 new holes, giving me a bit of space away from the edge of the bell housing. Also, I made sure the lovejoy was set on the motor post perfectly square (or whatever the term is) with a big glob of JB weld, since it had some wiggle on the keyway. Well, that was yesterday, and there is wiggle no more! I also spread a bunch of JB on my toast. It is really really tasty! Now I can't open my mouth though. It's really sad, so I must type for the rest of my life just to communicate! Really! I'm not lying...

So, now I need to find out if it still runs as smooth with the JB locking that dang coupler into place. It was sort of a risk to do that. I hope it works. I used a level to see if it was on right. I hope it works! Now, I need to put that dang thing back into the car, after adding the sludge inside the CV joint that is straight up nasty and not very sludgy.

Why is cocaine racist?

White Powder! White Powder!!! (I just made that up)