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Old 02-19-2016, 03:04 PM   #131 (permalink)
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Planejob, ETA to driving condition? The anticipation is killing me xD!!

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Old 02-19-2016, 03:38 PM   #132 (permalink)
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Planejob, ETA to driving condition? The anticipation is killing me xD!!
It's about 8 working hours away from being driveable around the neighborhood. I will get about 2 hours this Sunday to work on it, and then an hour per night next week. Theoretically, I could be driving it by Feb 27 (Keep in mind, I originally said I wanted to have it all done by Jan 1 2016. Missed it by 'that much'.)

Things left to do before test drive (this is the 8 hour list):
1) Connect throttle cable to injection pump.
2) Wire the Start/Stop Fuel solenoid to the Geo wiring
2)also) starter trigger wire needs to be connected over, too.
3) Make a decision about the brakes: Remove spring from Booster, or add electric vacuum pump from Ford Diesel Truck (pump allows for future heater controls)
4) Plumb in Racor fuel filter / water separator.
5) install air filter assembly. (15 dollars (missing original box) from Amazon Warehouse deals! woot.)

Things to do before taking it for a state inspection:
1) replace headlights (all mounting tabs have disintegrated.)
2) Wire in a thermostat to control the fan (there is a plan in place for this)
3) Install hood
4) confirm electrical system is functioning properly for lighting systems.


THings to do after it has an inspection:
1) install front bumper.
2) Get some tires that don't have grand-canyon-sized cracks in them and are the correct size. Current rears rub the inner fender.
3) remove the spring extenders that a previous owner put into all 4 springs.
4) Decide on oil pan - shorten it up or accept the risk of it dragging bottom.
5) get it plated.
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Old 02-19-2016, 07:06 PM   #133 (permalink)
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What goals do you have for after you obtain license plates?
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Old 02-19-2016, 08:35 PM   #134 (permalink)
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What goals do you have for after you obtain license plates?
I'm probably going to drive it across the country, do some aero mods, then sell it to some worthy soul.

I'm in Dallas, TX and I think it would be fun to make a roundtrip to Las Vegas. The only issue is I have no plans to hook up an A/C and the windows down will pretty much negate any aero mods that are done. I doubt I can keep it until next winter. Right now I don't have a place to park it outdoors, so once it's done and the next proect moves into the garage it will be homeless. I'm sure there's an HOA or City ordinance against having 7 or 9 vehicles (depends on how you count, exactly) and only 2 drivers. My wife has a requirement that anything that gets parked outside of the garage must be running and legal. (I think she came up with this thinking it would prevent an eyesore... then I got my 1976 GMC truck and painted the hood.)
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Old 02-19-2016, 09:41 PM   #135 (permalink)
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I might be interested in buying it when you go to sell it. Please let me know/keep me in mind.
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Old 02-20-2016, 12:51 AM   #136 (permalink)
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OK, so I was able to sneak out into the garage tonight and take some pictures of the progress that was made last weekend.

The original Geo Automatic radiator was reinstalled. I'm not sure if the empty transmission fluid cavity will cause issues with the efficient heat dissipation of the coolant - it's an interesting thought.

I went to the auto parts stores (Oreilly and Autozone) and searched for a heater hose that would fit my needs. I couldn't find anything so I ended up purchasing some 1" ID Heater hose with the intention of winding it around the ening bay and doing the entire system in bulk hose.

Well, that didn't work, as I tried to bend the hose tot he correct angles and dangles it would kink. SO I HAD A FLASH OF GENIUS... put this stuff in the clothes dryer on high for 30 minutes, then fit it to the car and let it cool in place with the bends "memorized"... DO NOT DO THIS. It causes marital strife. Heater hose leaves black marks all over the inside of the dryer.


So, I resorted to copper pipe. I went to Home Depot and the 8' stick of 1" copper was 40 bucks. I bought the 2' stick for 12 - the math doesn't work out but the total cash outlay makes sense.









The fuel filter arrived today (with the wrong size quick disconnect fittings).


THat's a 2 Micron Diesel Fuel filter and water separator. I plan to mount it here:

In place of this little filter:


And here's the air filter I scored for 15 bucks, instead of 60. But still, it adds up quickly.
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Old 02-20-2016, 11:57 AM   #137 (permalink)
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Copper elbows work they have been on my diesels cooling system since 2009 or 2010.

Which vacuum pump were you going to get?
A quick search shows an electric vacuum pump for 1999-2007 excursion for around $50, is that it?
Then what is your plan for the wire to power it?
I need one too, with no vacuum the heater just blows out on to the floor.

I was going to get a "rat rod brake booster vacuum pump kit" they are about $200 and are made to provide enough vacuum to run a brake booster. That ford vacuum pump looks like its only intended to run HVAC and 4wd vac actuators.
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1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
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Last edited by oil pan 4; 02-20-2016 at 12:20 PM..
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:26 PM   #138 (permalink)
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Used brake vacuum pump

Hella UP28 Brake Vacuum Pump Volvo VW Acura Audi Suburu GM 008487 01 30645454 | eBay
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Old 02-20-2016, 04:10 PM   #139 (permalink)
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Quote:
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A quick search shows an electric vacuum pump for 1999-2007 excursion for around $50, is that it?
Then what is your plan for the wire to power it? <snip> That ford vacuum pump looks like its only intended to run HVAC and 4wd vac actuators.
Great catch! That Ford pump was my plan, but you are absolutely right! It's not for brake boosters. Thanks for pointing that out.

I like those Hella Universal ones - they appear to have a built in on/off switch activated when vacuum is demanded.
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:20 AM   #140 (permalink)
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Looks like you are doing a great job. What do you expect to achieve MPG wise?

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