08-28-2010, 08:40 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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If it is possible, it might work to link it to the steering linkage and have that push/pull it? There would be challenges: isolating it from the up/down motion of the suspension, and if possible, *not* moving the skirt for small steering inputs, and only moving it for sharp steering. At highway speeds, you don't want it moving.
Would you include a partial inner fender that kept the air from getting in behind the skirt?
Check out this car:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post190671
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08-28-2010, 07:13 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Yeah thats kind of what i was thinking of, interesting thread. If theres enough room to ignore the small movements everything is simple if theres isnt, it can become too complex. I though of ways to isolate the suspension movement such as a bolt which arcs up and down in a slot but can push the linkages slot forward and back with the steering. I think turning in/out the wheel well may make the motion of the skirt appear simpler and elegant from the outside but not inside.
I was also thinking of a skirt that doest pivot but slides straight outward on a few telescoping tubes when the tire turns out and is pulled back in tight by springs. I kind of like that idea now.
One of the problems i could see with a basjoos flip up style is that the bottom edge of the skirt can stick out farther than the middle of the tire on a turn so it might hit something in a tight spot. Maybe another hinge 1/3 of the way from the bottom could let the bottom hang straight down. I think aeromodders had parallel arms to the skirt could swing out and up while staying parallel to the vehicle. I imagine if the top and bottom arms were different lengths, the skirt could swing out and s up while also tilting upwards some, maybe having the optimum motion for that method.
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08-28-2010, 07:31 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Should I set the skirt out from the tire as far as a i can without the radius at the edge of the skirt exceeding the template curve? Keep in mind i would like not also use a hubcap cover.
To check the angles and suspension movement i guess put a jack under one of the lower control arms lifting it till it touches the bump stop and turn the wheels checking at various steering angles. I could put the front on jackstands to let the wheels hang down and turn the wheels and for checking the low point angles too.
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08-28-2010, 08:07 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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I'd definitely stay away from sliders in a wheelwell. You can get the same motion from a scissors jack or lazy tongs, or a simpler, equally suitable one from single links.
The bump stops compress, but rarely. You might want to ignore that, except for damage control. On rebound, momentum can carry the wheel past static, no-load position.
Personally, I'd continue the skirt upward, overlapping the fender, hinge it at the hood line, and just let the tire rub to push it out. The spring tension holding it closed might be varied with speed.
I think most add-on skirts, front and rear, should overlap the fender and create a new line, rather than trying to work with existing styling. Front skirts would need the least clearance in use if they were in a frame that reduced the width needed to move.
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08-28-2010, 09:03 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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T-100 Road Warrior
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Why not just build out the fender enough to encapsulate the front wheels even when yer turning?
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08-28-2010, 09:41 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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2 reasons bam. That will stick out really far and hurt aerodynamics when driving straight on the highway. It might scrape curbs when parallel parking.
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08-28-2010, 09:50 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bicycle Bob
Front skirts would need the least clearance in use if they were in a frame that reduced the width needed to move.
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I dont understand that frame??
I dont know the bump stops will probably touch if the truck hits a speed bump too fast I'd rather plan for full suspension travel. The bumpstops in the back hit but thats because i need to replace a broken leaf and add helper springs for the load.
hmm good point hinging it at the hood would make it stick out less than at the top of the fender.
edit: yeah lazy tongs would be better, sliders would have to be wrapped in an acordian style boot like the steering link.
Last edited by miket; 08-28-2010 at 10:15 PM..
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08-28-2010, 09:55 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Whats the steepest angle i can use to transition between the back of the skirt and the parallel body?
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08-28-2010, 10:08 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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@ BamZipPow: Because, that widens the vehicle considerably and the extra width adds to drag. By articulating the skirts, the hope is to get the best of both worlds, so to speak.
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08-29-2010, 01:15 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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I could also combine the ideas i've heard earlier. Put a hinge at the top. Split the skirt and put a hinge between the top and bottom halves. Attach a arm to the bottom half thats as tall as the top half half so the bottom half of the skirt hangs parallel with the vehicle as the top half of the skirt and the lower arm both rotate out/up.
Of course it would be funky if I split it vertically isntead without hinges and have the front and back halves extend straight out independently on their own lazy tongs lol.
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