Project IRX: CRX-Insight Renaissance Experiment

[Christ]

As long as I'm not going to have to ship the knuckles, you'll probably end up with the outer hub splined section of the old axles still bolted in, as well... that way I don't have to screw with it. I'll remove extraneous pats, though.

[SVOboy]

Sounds fair to me. I owe you, verily, sir.

[Christ]

Pay it forward. Or make me a few hydraulic hoses for my damn back hoe...

[Wonderboy]

UGH! There were SO hydraulic hoses in that forklift I took the electric guts from at Gary's UPullit. Why couldn't you have broken your backhoe several months ago?

[Christ]

I didn't own it then.. and chances are, they were different threads for the fittings. (There are a few different types of standards for hydraulic hoses, including NPT, JIC, and several others. They're not interchangeable.)

I'm actually going to buy a few bulk loads of reusable (non-crimp) fittings and a bulk spool of hose (I think I can use SAE 100R1 or 100R2, I just don't know what size ID I need.) so that if I blow another line (very likely, given the age/condition of the lines) I can just make up another one then and there in a few minutes, bleed the system, and be done and ready to dig again.

[SVOboy]

Picture time! Today was a fruitful day if only that I learned several important things, found guidance in unexpected places, and have a better idea what I need to do to make it work out.

However, questions proliferate like rabbits. I will get to them.

[SVOboy]

Here's the first question: I know topher already told me how to reseal the top plastic bit of the radiator, but I didn't do a good job about it. The issue is that the metal is bent, which makes rebending the plastic to it quite a difficult task. Would I be pushing my luck wailing on the top end of the radiator with a hammer trying to straighten it out to reseal or should I try taking it to a shop? What would a radiator shop charge me to fix it? Also, I ended up using some jbweld to close up the hole since I feared melting the radiator and it was a tiny hole anyway, so I needn't have removed the reservoir, but o well, I'm stupid.

Thanks!

[Christ]

A few things:

1. That d-side axle looks VERY stretched... I hope you're compensating for that somehow.
2. Check on the HF tranny and pull the mount plate off it. It looks like the plate (not the mount) almost has the same bolt pattern as the Insight transaxle, and could maybe be a starting point for the d-side tower mount.
3. The p-side tower mount, flip your original D-series d-side front mount over so that the bolt holes are facing up, bolt a plate to the mount section of the engine, and weld a plate up and across to connect the two. The mount will have to be bolted from the backside.
4. Why does the d-side axle look like it's canted forward from the hub to the engine?

[SVOboy]

Next question: In buying a welder, what should I buy besides the welder itself?

So far I'm thinking:

- gloves
- mask
- tank
- ???
- profit!

Anything else? Also, can I get a tank and such fairly easily locally?

I decided to break down and buy a welder despite being completely broke because I've realized it'll be a big job, more than I can expect someone to help with, so maybe if ty wants to spend a little time teaching me to weld, I can go ahead and do the tough stuff by myself?

Thanks!!!

[Christ]

Originally Posted by SVOboy

Here's the first question: I know topher already told me how to reseal the top plastic bit of the radiator, but I didn't do a good job about it. The issue is that the metal is bent, which makes rebending the plastic to it quite a difficult task. Would I be pushing my luck wailing on the top end of the radiator with a hammer trying to straighten it out to reseal or should I try taking it to a shop? What would a radiator shop charge me to fix it? Also, I ended up using some jbweld to close up the hole since I feared melting the radiator and it was a tiny hole anyway, so I needn't have removed the reservoir, but o well, I'm stupid.

Thanks!

A shop will probably over charge you now because you've messed with it, so they'll have to "fix" what you've done.

So you've pressure tested the radiator somehow, and figured out that the original hole isn't leaking anymore, but now you've got a leak at the end tank?

You can *lightly* tap the metal to attempt to straighten it, but it might not work. In any event, heat it up with a propane torch before doing so, and stay away from directly heating solder joints.

Meanwhile, if you've got the $100 or so, get an aluminum rad off eBay to install. If it comes to going to a radiator shop, I can't say for sure what they'd charge you, but I'm relatively certain it will be close to that anyway.

You could also get this one, for $50 with free shipping.