Project IRX: CRX-Insight Renaissance Experiment

[Wonderboy]

I'm working down right near that steel place Tygen mentioned... do you want me to get some stuff for you? I can't come up today, but I can do tomorrow morning or thursday morning. Are you going to need that blizzak for more time? It's totally fine if you do - I don't have a problem dropping by hanover sometime during the fall, and I actually wouldn't mind an excuse to do so. Let me know, feel free to call.

[SVOboy]

I would call but I'm not sure where my phone is. If you wanna bring me some 3mm/1/8" plate steel in strips at least 6" wide I'd be very happy. Also, the blizzak is free. I had the tire mounted on the new insight rim a while back.

Time to get to work in the garage and hope Ty saw my warning or we'll have nothing to do

[Wonderboy]

How much do you want

[bluetwo]

Holy crapk!! This thing is a lot further along than I thought it would be. I just started reading this thread about 2 days ago (off and on a lot of course) and didn't read it all but wow, it's a lot more difficult than I thought it would be.

Nothing but props to you SVOboy and Christ, I had no idea you knew so much about cars. Good lookin out for ya boy.

All I can ask for is more pictures!

[SVOboy]

A quick update while I make some dinner:

Yesterday Ty came over and taught me a thing or two about welding and motor mounts. We got the passenger side mount done, and I'm well in position to finish the other two if I can get down to it. Thanks a bunch to Ty for coming to help me out and teaching me about welding.

Today Will came over and saw my pitiful-looking car, and since then I have been trying to get the wiring done. For the ignition I decided to swap the insight switch onto my crx lock cylinder, but that doesn't seem like it's going to work out. The key is all clunky and odd, even though I can't eally figure out how the two pieces are different.

So far all the cluster is showing is that the door open/closed switches are working, so I guess that's good? Unfortunately, the light stays on when the key is out and nothing else shows up, so I have a ways to go. First thing I'll do is try to fix the ignition switch without breaking it anymore, and then work on fixing up the wiring, ground everything properly, etc etc.

Damn allergies!

T - 3 days until this thing better be drivable!

[Tygen1]

I sure wish we had more time to practice welding. Time was short... The sheet metal on your car is so thin, make sure to take it slow, just a short bead, maybe a quarter inch, then let the pool cool so you don't burn thru. Burning thru will be the biggest time waster.
Wish I had more time to give you

[SVOboy]

No worries! I'll get some practice in tonight before I go burning holes.

Perhaps running the welder on a lower power setting will help me not burn through?

[Tygen1]

You'll need the power to get it to melt and penetrate deep enough. Otherwise your weld may just be sitting on the surface looking all nice and pretty You shouldn't have to vary much from the setting I had it at. It's a pretty forgiving welder.

When your letting the weld pool cool. Don't let it cool off until it turns back to the black base metal color. Let it cool until it is orange'ish, then hit it again.

It took me all day to "detox" from those fumes. My head was pounding all day and I just felt sick. Make sure you wear a mask.

Also make sure to clean up the area you are welding as good as you can, that will make it easier. That gray primer under the paint is so stubborn to get off and was messing with the weld a bit. Not really a bit deal though, you will not be relying on the welds to be the only thing holding the motor mounts down, the real strength will come in the bracing.

Another thing I just remembered, in order to reduce stress concentration on the trianglar brace we were talking about last night, take the tip of the triangle off. The part that would be at the square corner, at the base of the mount. Go up about 3/4" and out 3/4" from that corner and trim the tip of the triangle away. This will make it much stronger. If this is unclear, I can make a diagram.

So many tips and tricks, just not enough time....

[SVOboy]

Planning ahead for tomorrow: Anyone know where I can get a good spot weld drill bit locally? The welding supply shop, home depot, and lowe's don't have them, what other places should I look?

I'll post pictures and excitement and annoying stuff from today's work in a little bit.

[Christ]

Originally Posted by SVOboy

Planning ahead for tomorrow: Anyone know where I can get a good spot weld drill bit locally? The welding supply shop, home depot, and lowe's don't have them, what other places should I look?

I'll post pictures and excitement and annoying stuff from today's work in a little bit.

I normally just use a regular bit and drill straight through the weld, but if you want to not have to fill in a thru hole with weld (whatever you're using it for), you can probably get one from a body shop local to you. I don't believe harbor freight carries them?


EDIT: I know what you're doing - you're taking out/relocating the old body-side engine/transmission mounts, right? A good sharp chisel will get those out, if you don't plan on re-using them. If you do, you can drill right through those welds with no problems with a 1/4" bit (I use a step drill so I don't widen the hole too much).