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Old 08-24-2009, 04:01 PM   #11 (permalink)
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highcountryexplorer - '86 Nissan 720 KC 4x4 ST with fiberglass cap
90 day: 21.78 mpg (US)

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Last tank at 38.7....around 11% above last year's best summer mpg of 35. Previous tank came in much lower for some reason.

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Old 09-02-2009, 01:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hello! Additives get some stick don't they? I have a Nissan Serrena with head gasket/head failure. My Garage quote 1000Sterling to fix it. I paid 500, plus my old car (795 he wanted). My loan shark again lent us cash. I bought it. It was the middle of school holidays last August, kids wanted to go to the beach. He told that its got a new water pump, so I figured it okay. Damn thing kept overheating. So where do I find another Grand to pay for it?? Easy, I bought a bottle of K-Seal
K-Seal, K-Tek, QuikSteel, QuikTape, Just-For-Copper
Poured it into the radiator, took it to another Garage because mine scorned K-Seal, told them what the story was, they re bled the system and pressure tested it and let it run for 30 minutes non stop.
That was February this year 2009. I've driven a couple of thousand miles or more, the only issue I get is that its smelly at 90mph, the temperature gauge doesn't move, it gots a little shirty back in the heatwave 30deg celcius, but its still okay, I was stuck in a traffic jam at the time but as soon as we got moving the tempeature went down and we carry on. The tempeature needle never goes above centre, this is a mid mount engine with an engine fan and 2 radiator fans up front. The engine fan cuts in and out if the suns out the radiator fans don't come on.
K-Seal apparently fills tiny cracks. I was getting both positive and negative feedback all over the web. I've seen You Tube videos, one had a Dodge pickup that was steaming and clonking, K-Seal was poured in and after a minute or so, the engine calms down and begins to return to normal.
I paid 15 sterling for a bottle including P & P, and my engine is fine. I keep the empty bottle in the car as a souvenir. To me, it was a bottle of magic potion.To my kids, trips to the seaside, the forest and every other outing our people carrier is good for.
Now, I'm learning to drive efficiently.
Thank you

Mike
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Old 05-02-2010, 12:21 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Smile Tried Ferrosilicate Restoration yet?

Aloha Y'all,

I suggest you check out RVS Technology (please Google it, I don't have enough posts yet to allow links): metal ceramic treatment for the restoration of your engine, transmission and differential for information on a "new" (to you) technology that rebuilds the surfaces of ferrous metallics in your vehicle. Essentially its a magnesium silicate mineral slurry suspended in a gel that mixes with either engine oil or transmission fluid and undergoes a chemical transformation at the wear points, burning off the magnesium atom and bonding to the ferrous atom to create a smooth new surface.

As well, there's a couple of YouTube links showing this technology at use in an attempted restoration of a power steering unit with whining bearings: just please search for RVS technology.

Sorry about the lack of links -- you'll have to cut and paste. Please bear in mind that I'm only 21 with 40 years of experience.
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Old 05-03-2010, 09:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The Van - '97 Mercury Villager gs
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I love reading about snake oil. It's entertaining, and reminds me of all the big claims about the hydrogen generators

The thing about MMO having a bit of abrasive in it worries me a bit. I've always thought it was good stuff for cleaning up dirty engines and injectors, but I sure as heck don't want to be removing material!

That restore stuff sounds plausible enough to work without grinding stuff away. Seems like I've used it before to keep a dying engine going, but can't remember for sure.

I had to pass emmisions once in Colorado, and the car i had blew some nasty numbers. I got a can of some sort of carb cleaner, not the aerosol type. (it may have been berrymans b-12). The can of carb cleaner I slowly poured into the throttle body, which made the ole car spit sputter, and finally blow some nasty oil out of some sort of a tube. I also put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank. I went back for testing that same day and the guy looked at me like I pulled off a miracle when he tested it. He asked me "what'd you do to it??" And after finding out I'd passed, I told him I cleaned out the throttle body.

I've also heard of a guy that passed emmisions after running a tank of gas that had a couple gallons of biodiesel in it.
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I think you missed the point I was trying to make, which is that it's not rational to do either speed or fuel economy mods for economic reasons. You do it as a form of recreation, for the fun and for the challenge.
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Old 05-03-2010, 11:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadeTreeMech View Post
I love reading about snake oil. It's entertaining, and reminds me of all the big claims about the hydrogen generators
Frank Lee wrote:
Quote:
I want to add it to my cereal, and especially my shampoo.
Maybe we could just have a thread called "what works & what doesn't"?

IMHO, these additives are proven to work:

The "guaranteed to pass" stuff, which is a fuel additive, does work to reduce emissions (temporarily).

Some automatic transmission additives that contain solvents can work (if your car is over 20 years old and has age-related, hardened seals that are sticking, or hanging up).

Radiator sealants can work - the same as the old standby, ground black pepper also works, by floating around in the system and plugging up the radiator leak, if it's not too big.

But claims of motor oil additives increasing fuel economy? Nope.

My vote is with the guys who mentioned snake oil, feel-good shampoo and the 'breakfast of champions'.
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Old 05-03-2010, 11:28 PM   #16 (permalink)
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MMO has abrasives... then again, so does anything else on the market with any kind of solids in it... motor oil included.

Oh - and your toothpaste... that has silica in it. Happy brushing!
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Old 05-03-2010, 11:29 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Johnny's Metro - '93 Geo Metro 4-Door Hatchback
90 day: 47.5 mpg (US)

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Biodiesel is supposed to be an extremely strong solvent. That's why when swtiching to biodiesel, it is generally recommended to change your fuel filter after a few tanks because it can plug up quickly. It's also the best lubricant you can add to diesel fuel, better than any other diesel fuel additives on the market. I run a 200:1 vegetable oil mix in my Metro. Not as clean s biodiesel because it still has the glycerin in it, but still better than nothing.
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Old 05-06-2010, 10:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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HOLY CARP I was going to mention the vegetable oil myself but was afraid to get laughed off the forum. I've used veggie oil before with good results but it's so off the wall people think I'm selling snake oil when I mention it. I tried it out of desperation once when I was on a road trip in my Explorer and it was running like garbage. I figured veg oil was ALMOST biodiesel, so maybe it'll work and it sure seemed to smooth things out. But it seemed such a simple way to get the thing going again.......
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesqf View Post
I think you missed the point I was trying to make, which is that it's not rational to do either speed or fuel economy mods for economic reasons. You do it as a form of recreation, for the fun and for the challenge.
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Old 05-07-2010, 01:26 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Blue - '93 Ford Tempo
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Quote:
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Oh - and your toothpaste... that has silica in it. Happy brushing!
You mean happy polishing!

Before:


After:
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Old 05-07-2010, 01:28 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Tooth paste only? I usually wetsand, then use tooth paste for the final polish... I've used tooth paste to restore laser discs, CD's, and DVD's, as well.

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