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Old 10-16-2019, 04:35 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Try running the exhaust through the cabin.

With a water jacket you can also have thermal stability.

In something as inefficient as an IC a lack of heat should not be a problem :S

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Old 10-16-2019, 08:52 AM   #12 (permalink)
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This wouldn't work in my K24 Insight. I think I'll need to insulate my engine block because if I'm running the heater, even with the engine running full time, it takes forever to get up to temperature.
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Old 10-16-2019, 09:09 AM   #13 (permalink)
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.

Easy peasy...

Wire the coolant pump via a relay into the oil pressure idiot light circuit. Idiot light on - coolant pump on - idiot light off - coolant pump off.

Should work perfectly with the EOC (engine off coasting) technique.




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Old 10-16-2019, 09:53 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redneck View Post
.

Easy peasy...

Wire the coolant pump via a relay into the oil pressure idiot light circuit. Idiot light on - coolant pump on - idiot light off - coolant pump off.

Should work perfectly with the EOC (engine off coasting) technique.




>
That's actually brilliant, bravo.
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Old 10-16-2019, 10:27 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Excellent replies guys! Thanks for jumping in.

As it is, I do have a bunch of warm up mods done to the Mirage. I am currently running:
- 1000W block heater
- Coroplast lower grill block
- 3d printed upper grill block
- Sealed hood gap with weather stripping
- I'll soon be reinstalling my warm air intake for the winter


Quote:
Originally Posted by iikhod View Post
Hate to be that guy, but: How much is the fuel savings difference between engine off coasting and engine on coasting(maybe dfco)?
Interesting idea, still.
In my experience there is a very large gain from going from DWL to P&G with the engine on. There is another fairly sizable gain from going to P&G with the engine off. If I had to guess, its around 5 mpg on the Mirage which is getting around 55-60 mpg.


Quote:
Originally Posted by redpoint5 View Post
My first steps would be engine coolant heater so I start off in the morning with reasonably warm fluid, and a grill block. I tend to run the fan on the lowest setting unless I'm trying to defrost/clear a window because I don't like the extra noise, and it's just about as effective at warming the cabin (hotter air rather than more warm air). Then I have seat heaters which are quite effective and very economical to run.
I do have a block heater installed. Its a 1000W Kats type circulating tank heater. This definitely helps things out.


Quote:
Originally Posted by iikhod View Post
As for the circulation pump itself, you could buy it second hand even cheaper from a junk yard. Some cars have a pump like that, for circulating coolant after shutdown, if necessary for cooling. Fans also run during this time. I believe vw t4 vans have this feature? Correct me if i'm wrong.
Ironically, I checked ebay for used pumps and found them to be the same price or higher...


Quote:
Originally Posted by redneck View Post
Easy peasy...

Wire the coolant pump via a relay into the oil pressure idiot light circuit. Idiot light on - coolant pump on - idiot light off - coolant pump off.

Should work perfectly with the EOC (engine off coasting) technique.
That is perfect! I wanted to stay away from complicated controls and that does it.



I also have a 110V cabin heater. But haven't installed yet. I think that will definitely help with wanting to get heat asap. I'm hoping it also will help with defrosting.
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Old 10-16-2019, 11:55 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Hot water bottle under seat? Or between legs?
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:23 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iikhod View Post
Hate to be that guy, but: How much is the fuel savings difference between engine off coasting and engine on coasting(maybe dfco)?
Interesting idea, still.
I bumped my best tank from 45 to 51 just by adding EOC just on 10 or so hills for a tank, normally those hills would have been partially DFCO or N coasting.
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Old 10-16-2019, 01:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piotrsko View Post
I was gonna go with what will this save, but it's DAOX so I figured that was unnecessary.

Another thought along redpoints line: oil filled room heater before driving. Heavier coat while driving. After all, they DIDN'T have car heaters in 1908.
They had portable kerosene heaters.
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Old 10-16-2019, 02:18 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
I'm not sure about the rest of you, but around here it has sure cooled off quickly. Just last week I was going to work and it was 60F out at 7 in the morning. Today it was 34F. So, I was using my heat today. And of course with P&G you kind of loose nice warm heat after a few seconds of EOC. A few more seconds later and its not real warm at all. A bit longer and you may find yourself turning down the fan speed so it doesn't blow cold air on you. Of course, as soon as you bump start, you're jacking the fan speed back up to get the heat back! This is obnoxious to me, so I would like to fix it. Its also a detriment to defrosting when you first start driving. This causes me to run my engine more just so I can stay safe and see.

My first thought thus far is to put in a small 12V coolant pump that runs when the engine is not running. It can be put directly on the 5/8" heater core hose. There seem to be more and more small coolant pumps available as more and more hybrid and start/stop systems are put in place. You can pick one of these up for about $36 on amazon.

12V coolant pump



I'm very open to other ideas for retaining heat use with the engine off, but this seems to be the simplest I can think of.

The next step would be how to turn it on only when the engine is not running. I don't really have any thoughts on that so far, so I would love to hear you guy's thoughts on how we could do this.
As it takes more than 45-miles to bring a vehicle fully to operating temperature (anything less reduces life), the length of your commute (not stated) is where to start. Rather, of what road types does it consist?

I’d choose the longer non-stop route, and leave earlier. It’s pretty easy to chart average mph. Leave early enough, and there’ll be a point where stunt driving is shown for what it is: accelerated vehicle degradation. There’ll be a trade-off somewhere between distance and fuel burn. I know what is with my Peterbilt in a metro area. (Number of stops is the hardest thing to overcome).

If you’re forcing the vehicle to adapt to you, it’s a bad business. Involves too much reduction of book maintenance intervals. Also requires regular fluid analysis.

If the car just doesn’t matter (reliability & longevity), then it just doesn’t matter whatever else one does (after the fact changes).

I wouldn’t ever choose to sacrifice utility. Means I own the wrong vehicle. Second, an increase in comfort is nothing to sneeze at. Avoid the first and highlight the second.

Let us know your change in morning departure time, and average mph change. (Same goes for evening).

If you never ran the car on a non-work day, (say, all weekend; ALL personal errands joined to the commute on one or two days), what would be the change to the budget? Reduction by gallons & dollars of non-compensated miles? (as work or school implies payment; present or future).

If you don’t know, you should. MPG isn’t a stand-alone. Context is the only thing gives it meaning. Making claims about how far you can go on $7 of gasoline means I’d flunk you from class the first day as it’s too easy to devise tests & guidelines that defeat a numerical miles challenge.

Get beyond idiosyncratic. Forest, not trees (as the problem).

0700 departure is the start. Or understand that weather is a fact, not a variable. Ignoring YEAR ROUND traffic volume per clock hour, is the thing to address. Done right it kills this spend-to-save thing. So you can’t EOC under some conditions doesn’t matter, as your vehicle use is prescribed. Find the offsets elsewhere. Know the cost. That’s THE ANNUAL.

.
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Last edited by slowmover; 10-16-2019 at 02:40 PM..
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Old 10-17-2019, 03:26 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Slowmover, I still think you're posting on the wrong forum.


Subscribed for updates, nevertheless.

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