Turbo Diesel vs EO(ff)C

[Arragonis]

Originally Posted by dremd

You are correct about oil pressure, I've had a few Toyota VVTI motors apart before.

The Rover VVC uses the same method, hence my thought. Worth a look at the non return type filter or is this the wrong tree I'm woofing at ?

Originally Posted by dremd

To be honest, I forgot about turbo seals

Is your VRX a PD? I'm not up to date with Euro TDi years/ motors.

MY ALH TDI used just over 1 cup in the last 60,000 miles (last drain), I thought I was burning a little bit, but an astute friend noted that that is about the amount that I have sent off for sampling.

The VRS uses the 130 PD engine, either the ASZ or BLT engine codes, mine is the ASZ one. I did monitor the oil when I got is (24K miles) as I noted the replaced turbo warranty paperwork but it didn't and hasn't used any between refills since.

Being an old BL/BMC A-series user I'm kind of used to engines using a bit of oil. I did have a small leak which in retrospect was the oil film leaking from the joint in the turbo pipe and making its way down to the floor when I parked on my sloping drive.

[Arragonis]

Originally Posted by ShadeTreeMech

I suspect the smoke you were seeing was as result of lost boost pressure--the boost pipe you fixed was on the pressurized side, correct? Assuming that, the smoke was likely unspent fuel the engine injected while expecting full boost pressure. Hence the reason naturally aspirated diesels tend to be a bit smoky; the extra air helps to burn all the fuel.

Thats pretty much it. I shall monitor the gaffer tape (for survival in rain etc) and renew as needed. At the next service I may go for the uprated ones those who have remaps go for but they cost a lot, or a dogleash fix as described on TDI forums but modified my leak is on the join halfway down and not at the turbo at the back of the engine.

A guy at work who is into boosting his MINI a lot suggests single piece uprated 'chav' (aka 'ricer') style ones but it will need some flex in it as the engine moves but the intercooler stays still.

[Piwoslaw]

I'm glad you started this thread, Arragonis, as I'm EOCing my HDi more often lately.

As for the turbine/oil problem, would having a small electric oil pump solve the problem? It would keep oil circulating either when the key is turned to the ignition position, or when the oil temperature is too high - sort of like the radiator fan, which can keep going even after parking the car. This pump would also increase the oil circulation speed when the engine is on and under load.

[Arragonis]

I did briefly look at electric pumps but a lot seem for race use, so not sure about using them long term on the road. I have seen some people claim 10-20K miles on one alone with no issues. It would be expensive though and it would take a long time to recoup the cost on EO(ff)C vs EO(n)C.

I'm sure someone on here will have done 100K in a TDi with EO(ff)C with no effects, we just need them to step forward and we'll all believe them...

EDIT - The ones I saw were also more for bikes that cars.

[Daox]

Well, you only need the pump on while the engine is off. So, you'd need a circuit to do this. That would greatly extend the life of the pump so you could probably use some cheapo pump and be fine.

[PaleMelanesian]

Originally Posted by Arragonis

dremd - you may be right. A lot of VRS owners have put down turbo failure to not allowing the turbo to cool - kind of you hammer down the motorway at 70-90, stop for a pee and shut the engine off in the rest area / services straight away. Do it enough times and the oil in the turbo stays there happily cooking.

Cruising, even at 90 mph, isn't putting that much load on the engine. The calculator shows about 42 hp required. Most likely, you'd be pulling a vacuum rather than boost. (I was generous with all the inputs, so many cars would need less)

I can see a problem with P&G type driving, though.

[dremd]

Originally Posted by PaleMelanesian

Cruising, even at 90 mph, isn't putting that much load on the engine. The calculator shows about 42 hp required, and a more aerodynamic car would need even less. Most likely, you'd be pulling a vacuum rather than boost.

I can see a problem with P&G type driving, though.

Well, the fact of the matter that our cars make bost at idle with no load prety much shoots this one out the window.

At 90 I believe 5 PSI is fairly normal for a 1.9 TDI.
I make 3.x at 65~75 MPH

[Daox]

It doesn't matter how much boost you're running. It matters how much fuel you're burning and how hot the exhaust manifold/turbo is getting.

[PaleMelanesian]

Originally Posted by Daox

It doesn't matter how much boost you're running. It matters how much fuel you're burning and how hot the exhaust manifold/turbo is getting.

I thought EGT was roughly correlated to boost level. Can someone with an EGT gauge clarify what conditions lead to high EGT?

Edit: some internet reading tells me that EGT is related to the amount of FUEL used, more than boost.

[Arragonis]

Originally Posted by PaleMelanesian

Cruising, even at 90 mph, isn't putting that much load on the engine.

In my experience from listening to the whistle boost varies more with throttle that speed. I can do 90 mph downhill with no boost, and 60 uphill on full. Mine whistles at under 1.5K when setting off and short shifting.

Originally Posted by PaleMelanesian

I can see a problem with P&G type driving, though.

What are those issues please ?

Originally Posted by PaleMelanesian

My limited experience with diesels is with a Honda 2.2 iCDTi, but it ran vacuum unless you pretty much bury the pedal. Driven carefully, you could go all day long and not see any boost at all.

Not doubting but wondering as I don't have an SG or similar yet, how does it go into vacuum with no throttle ?

The Civic boosts from very low revs so avoiding it entirely would be tricky.