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Old 04-29-2015, 09:49 AM   #31 (permalink)
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Make sure it's all nice and greased up.

I don't remember too much resistance, but I did mine when I had the engine out, so it was definitely easier.

Try to get a second hand if possible.

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Old 04-29-2015, 12:35 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Where I sit now is that the transmission is being suspended by ratchet straps off of the 4X8 piece of lumber that's holding up the engine. Those straps appear to be giving me the added swing and maneuverability that I need to help line everything up.

I'm going to get back to it soon. Only this time, I'm going attempt using a few new ideas that I've gathered from various forums.

First off, I'm going to level the engine. Then, I'm going to move the flywheel by hand in an attempt to line up the splines. If that fails, I may even attempt to get longer bolts which have the same diameter as the bell housing bolts; but with the heads cut off and slots cut in at the ends. That way if everything does line up, I can just back them out with a regular screwdriver.
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Old 04-29-2015, 10:51 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Current update:

It would appear that leveling the engine was by no means the solution when in fact, all that it did was restrict the amount of room that I needed to adjust the angle for the transmission. It had gotten to the point where the top of the tranny kept hitting the motor mount on the passenger side leading to zero progress.

The problem now is that although the dowel pins are lined up, I still can't seem to get everything to slide in together. I keep ending with a half inch gap. Is this to be expected? Should I attempt to rock & shake the transmission back into place, or should I keep attempt to readjust my angles by adjusting the ratchet straps?

At this point I think that the input shaft may be in place. Whenever I attempt to move the flywheel by hand, it no longer spins as freely as it did when the input shaft is not joined to it.
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Old 04-30-2015, 11:48 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Up to this point, I've been having problems attempting to mate the transmission with the engine. In an earlier post, I'd mentioned that the flywheel came with a pilot bearing already installed.

What's clear to me is that quite evidently, the splines to both the input shaft and the clutch are lined up, whereas now, I'm thinking that the pilot bearing that came installed with the new flywheel from Exedy might be the culprit.
What do you think everyone, could that be possible?

Before I dismantle the flywheel and swap out the pilot bearing with a new OEM part, I'm going to attempt to wiggle & shake the transmission some more.
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Old 04-30-2015, 02:15 PM   #35 (permalink)
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It's possible the pilot bearing could be an issue, although small.

If you need to remove the passenger motor mount.
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Old 04-30-2015, 02:30 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davo53209@yahoo.com View Post
Up to this point, I've been having problems attempting to mate the transmission with the engine. In an earlier post, I'd mentioned that the flywheel came with a pilot bearing already installed.

What's clear to me is that quite evidently, the splines to both the input shaft and the clutch are lined up, whereas now, I'm thinking that the pilot bearing that came installed with the new flywheel from Exedy might be the culprit.
What do you think everyone, could that be possible?

Before I dismantle the flywheel and swap out the pilot bearing with a new OEM part, I'm going to attempt to wiggle & shake the transmission some more.
How close is the trans getting to mating up with the engine? Upto 1/2 or so and that's it? That would be pilot bearing for sure.

It's relatively easy to tell if that is your hang up.

Remove the flywheel and see if the bearing/flywheel clears the input shaft on your trans.

You really REALLY need to have the clutch disc perfectly centered for it to all slide together properly. The margin for error is very small.

As you can see the clutch disc can be pretty off center and the trans will slip into that but then get stuck because it's not lined up perfectly with the pilot bearing.

Did your kit come with the plastic centering tool? I personally dislike those because they're very loose fitting and can cause centering problems.

If you are using the plastic one loosen up your pressure plate again, put the tool back in and wiggle it up, down, left and right, get a feel for EXACTLY where center is then tighten the pressure plate down again.

You MUST hold the tool on your center line as you snug down a couple bolts so the pressure plate then keeps the disc from sliding.

I have the best luck centering right the first time with sockets and long extensions.

I find a 1/4" drive socket that fits PERFECTLY in the pilot bearing then I find another 1/4" drive socket that sits PERFECTLY in the clutch disc and use those to center it. Hard to describe, much easier to demonstrate in person.

If I did Honda clutches regularly I would keep on hand an old input shaft out of a transmission for centering the clutch. NOTHING beats this.
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Old 04-30-2015, 03:30 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawk618 View Post
How close is the trans getting to mating up with the engine? Upto 1/2 or so and that's it? That would be pilot bearing for sure.

It's relatively easy to tell if that is your hang up.

Remove the flywheel and see if the bearing/flywheel clears the input shaft on your trans.

You really REALLY need to have the clutch disc perfectly centered for it to all slide together properly. The margin for error is very small.

As you can see the clutch disc can be pretty off center and the trans will slip into that but then get stuck because it's not lined up perfectly with the pilot bearing.

Did your kit come with the plastic centering tool? I personally dislike those because they're very loose fitting and can cause centering problems.

If you are using the plastic one loosen up your pressure plate again, put the tool back in and wiggle it up, down, left and right, get a feel for EXACTLY where center is then tighten the pressure plate down again.

You MUST hold the tool on your center line as you snug down a couple bolts so the pressure plate then keeps the disc from sliding.

I have the best luck centering right the first time with sockets and long extensions.

I find a 1/4" drive socket that fits PERFECTLY in the pilot bearing then I find another 1/4" drive socket that sits PERFECTLY in the clutch disc and use those to center it. Hard to describe, much easier to demonstrate in person.

If I did Honda clutches regularly I would keep on hand an old input shaft out of a transmission for centering the clutch. NOTHING beats this.
The clutch kit did come with the plastic centering tool and I just utilized your suggestions regarding the pressure plate and the plastic alignment tool. I think that tip helped more than previously, because I've seem to have gotten closer.

Instead of eye balling it, I decided to measure the gap between the engine and transmission with my digital calipers.

At the second transmission mounting hole, the gap measured out at 0.32 inches towards the top of the engine & transmission and at the dowel pin at the front of the engine, the gap measured out at 0.25 inches.

It was then that I decided I was perhaps being too cautious & conservative and got behind the passenger side portion of the transmission and wrestled the thing forward. I rocked & shook the transmission until I heard the "tink" of metal joining together & that's when I took another reading.

At the top of the engine towards the second transmission mounting hole, the gap measured at 0.14 inches and at the dowel pin, the gap was measured at 0.11 inches. The last thing that I'd notice was that whenever I put pressure on the rear portion of the transmission, the gap to the rear dowel pin closes off completely.

In short, is it now safe to bolt the transmission onto the engine?

Last edited by Davo53209@yahoo.com; 04-30-2015 at 08:11 PM..
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Old 05-18-2015, 02:53 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Davo53209, Just reading your series of posts in this thread brought back not so fond memories of my own 1992 Civic CX clutch job. I probably shouldn't share this but I spent more money at the chiropractor than I think I saved. I do remember my father in law helped me, and you are correct about leveling the engine being the wrong method. Seems like we had a slight 3 or 4 degree down angle to get it to match up correctly. But when it does, the heavens opens, angels trumpret, and it slides in like butter on hot corn. Not an experience I want to repeat ever again. I will be removing the entire powertrain when I do my build project. And the ASE pros can do the re-install of the powertrain

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