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Old 10-28-2010, 07:00 PM   #21 (permalink)
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...two clear plastic tubes = slide-on "guides" to protect the gaskets as you slide them over the "injector pintle" when pushing each one into position?

...also, if those valve-stem "locks" are steel, use a small magnet to 'catch & hold' them as you compress the spring, otherwise them might snap out and disappear on you.

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Old 10-28-2010, 07:11 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Ok, that makes sense. I was playing with them and they just fit the inside diameter of the seal. And yes, I always catch the spring clips with a magnet stick and put them back in with a tad of petroleum jelly to hold them for replacement.... I just know that this will be the last time I dig into a Toyota motor, My fingers are too big!
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half exposed Lucky http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1210727433

how it was done...

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...html#post25264

as of feb. 09, still holding up great with new owner,
who has since re-geared the rear end and gets nearly 40 MPG!
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:07 PM   #23 (permalink)
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My salvation has arrived today in the form of a head bolt socket, I have already removed the head and am moving right along!
Hopefully to the re-assembly steps by the wee hours!
Is there anything ecomod-wise I can do while the head is removed? I don't know if I should clean and shine valve seats, piston tops and such, or just leave the internals be....
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half exposed Lucky http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1210727433

how it was done...

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...html#post25264

as of feb. 09, still holding up great with new owner,
who has since re-geared the rear end and gets nearly 40 MPG!
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Old 11-01-2010, 07:48 PM   #24 (permalink)
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...while the head is removed, lightly clean each combustion chamber, but be VERY careful not to remove any metal, because doing so will lower the compression ratio of that cylinder.

...chemical cleaning is probably safer than mechanical (wire brush or scrapper) cleaning.
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Old 11-01-2010, 09:07 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I have some acetone I can rub it down with. The cylinder walls actually seem to be in extremely clean shape, Thanks!
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Every dollar I save, .....I save!
half exposed Lucky http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1210727433

how it was done...

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...html#post25264

as of feb. 09, still holding up great with new owner,
who has since re-geared the rear end and gets nearly 40 MPG!
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Old 11-06-2010, 01:50 AM   #26 (permalink)
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It runs!
The terc-hell is purring like a Kitty thanks to the help and advice from the fine folks here! I gotta put it on the ground and test drive it tomorrow.
I got a new K&N filter for it in the hopes of gaining a mile or two. I'm debating on a header. Don't know if that helps eco-wise or not. Trust me, it's not for power! lol
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Every dollar I save, .....I save!
half exposed Lucky http://ecomodder.com/forum/attachmen...1&d=1210727433

how it was done...

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...html#post25264

as of feb. 09, still holding up great with new owner,
who has since re-geared the rear end and gets nearly 40 MPG!
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Old 11-06-2010, 07:00 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Woo, great to hear.

I wouldn't bother with a header, you won't see any real good mpg gain out of it. Perhaps if the header was custom made to increase torque at low rpms it would, but no production header does this.
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Old 11-06-2010, 07:16 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevlar View Post
I got a new K&N filter for it in the hopes of gaining a mile or two. I'm debating on a header. Don't know if that helps eco-wise or not. Trust me, it's not for power! lol
I'd return the K&N to the store without opening it. They're nothing but junk and a good way to let in too much dust. Here's a hint: If you can see between individual strands of the filter material, it's no good.

Here's a good thread on the subject.

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ers-11418.html

A good quality paper filter does a much better job, is cheaper, and all that a modern fuel injected engine needs. A carburated gasser might like the K&N, but when there is a computer monitoring the air/fuel ratio several times a second, there's no need for the K&N.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesqf View Post
I think you missed the point I was trying to make, which is that it's not rational to do either speed or fuel economy mods for economic reasons. You do it as a form of recreation, for the fun and for the challenge.
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Old 11-06-2010, 07:37 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I'd also agree that the K&N is arguably a waste of money. It won't increase mileage. Check out Darin's tests here:


Testing a 'performance' air filter for MPG - Part 1 - MetroMPG.com

Testing a 'performance' air filter for MPG - Part 2 - MetroMPG.com
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Old 11-06-2010, 09:48 PM   #30 (permalink)
...beats walking...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevlar View Post
I'm debating on a header. Don't know if that helps eco-wise or not. Trust me, it's not for power! lol
...a properly sized "long-branch/small-diameter" Tri-Y header will help both HP and FE, especially if you size all the dimensions to coincide with the engines' TORQUE peak rather than its' HORSEPOWER peak.

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