Would you resurface your own cylinder head?

[Piotrsko]

If you care, the messed up end of your stud in the picture above says the stud is too long and is trying to rethread the bottom of its hole or whatever it fits into. Look like it was installed upside down.

My $0.02 YMMV

[Xist]

There is definitely a tapping sound coming from the engine. On the bright side, I swept the garage for the first time in six months.

[Piotrsko]

Comment: it's running?
You may have found your lost hardware.

[Xist]

Yes, I finished putting her together yesterday. It was funny, as I mentioned, the instructions that I had stopped when I put the valve cover back on. The disassembly instructions had fifteen steps before opening up the engine. Number fifteen was to remove the top bracket. I spent five minutes looking for the top bracket so I could reinstall it.

I never removed it. I guess that I did not need to!

I should probably go back and remove #15. I will look at the other steps and try to adjust, but I still get lost.

Instead of looking at #14 I just started reconnecting everything, took off a couple of things again because something else needed to go on first, and spent a great deal of time looking for lost parts.

I never found a 10mm bolt, but it fell well after I put the engine back together, and I am positive that the sound is from a poor valve adjustment. I need to fire the guy that did it!

I could not figure out how to reassemble the fuel rail except for laying on my engine. Maybe I should purchase some lounge cushions in case I ever need to do that again.

By the way, I used the scrap plastic trick to get several more nuts and bolts back in their spots. I do not have any idea how else I could have accomplished that.

Wait, magnets exist. That could have worked.

[Xist]

I took off the valve cover and saw this bolt was loose. I started tightening it, but it never really got tight. Use an automatic centerpunch and a left-handed drill bit\bolt extractor?

[Xist]

I bought an automatic centerpunch and more left-handed drill bits. Mine are in storage? The top motor mount was in the way, so I tried to remove it. Brought out the jack, sprayed the bolts with WD-40, and the first one started rounding.

Forget that!

I drilled a tiny hole with the 1/64" bit, moved up, but when I tried the third bit, it broke off in the stump, and a fragment bounced off my face.

I had planned on trying to use a bolt extractor in a 1/4" socket, but now I need to extract the bit before I can extract the stump.

This is the closest store that sells tools: https://www.calranch.com/diamond-hoo...t-handed.html#

That set is twice as expensive as Harbor Freight's, but they do not have a 90° drill attachment, so I still need to go to HF

By the way, I used my compressor to blow out my engine before I put everything back together. It got out dust and stuff. If it did not expel any fasteners, I am sure it would have rattled them.

My only current morning client canceled yet again. I have not seen them for almost two months. I was actually supposed to see my afternoon clients today, but I forgot.

Maybe I would not have broken the bolt had I remembered.

So, no Tuesday clients, either.

[Piotrsko]

If you were using Lh bits, you need a right hand extractor. Probably a tap extractor is a better tool as they work either way. Grainger, never saw one at HF. fastenal perhaps also.

[Xist]

Right-hand extractor? Wouldn't you want a lefty to unbolt it?

This is what Google showed when I searched for "Tap extractor:" https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-...-pc-61981.html

The drill bits are right-hand, but the extractors are lefties.

[Shaneajanderson]

Originally Posted by Xist

I bought an automatic centerpunch and more left-handed drill bits. Mine are in storage? The top motor mount was in the way, so I tried to remove it. Brought out the jack, sprayed the bolts with WD-40, and the first one started rounding.

Forget that!

I drilled a tiny hole with the 1/64" bit, moved up, but when I tried the third bit, it broke off in the stump, and a fragment bounced off my face.

I had planned on trying to use a bolt extractor in a 1/4" socket, but now I need to extract the bit before I can extract the stump.

This is the closest store that sells tools: https://www.calranch.com/diamond-hoo...t-handed.html#

That set is twice as expensive as Harbor Freight's, but they do not have a 90° drill attachment, so I still need to go to HF

By the way, I used my compressor to blow out my engine before I put everything back together. It got out dust and stuff. If it did not expel any fasteners, I am sure it would have rattled them.

My only current morning client canceled yet again. I have not seen them for almost two months. I was actually supposed to see my afternoon clients today, but I forgot.

Maybe I would not have broken the bolt had I remembered.

So, no Tuesday clients, either.

Is this bolt broken off in aluminum? If so get one youtube and look up "removing head bolts with alum" or something close to that, from a channel titled AvE. He curses like a drunken sailor, but the guy is brilliant.

If it's cast iron then you're back to the extractor, or if you have a stub hanging out you could try tacking a nut on and turning it out that way.

[nemo]

Just my 2 cents.

Removing rusted and or stuck bolts:
Clean any threads you can get to with a wire brush.
Use penetrating oil Kroil, Liquid wrench, Etc. Let it soak in.
Six point sockets or wrench.
Sometime turning the bolt out and back in helps.
Heat works in some locations.
Rounded head Vice-Grips. They even come in needle nose.

As for drill bits the only advantage to LH bits is sometimes just their use removes the bolt. Go slow when drilling and wear safety googles.

Get the hole for the extractor as close to centered as you can.

Ive had to drill to the threads and remove what was left of the bolt by pulling it out of the threads.

Good luck!