Would you resurface your own cylinder head?

[Xist]

How is using a bolt extractor an escapade?

[Shaneajanderson]

Originally Posted by Xist

How is using a bolt extractor an escapade?

I believe he was referring to the whole thread.

[Xist]

There must be a reason mechanics charge $1,250 to replace the head gasket and only a fool would expect me to work as efficiently as a mechanic.

[Shaneajanderson]

Originally Posted by Xist

There must be a reason mechanics charge $1,250 to replace the head gasket and only a fool would expect me to work as efficiently as a mechanic.

$1,250 is about 8-10 hours labor, A head gasket on a 4-banger should only take a proficient mechanic about 4-5, unless there's something unusual about your model that makes it more difficult, which is definitely possible.

be glad it's not a 6.0 powerstroke, at shop rate head gaskets on those (an every 100k or so occurrence) is a $10k fix. When I worked at the Ford garage we saw so many that the diesel guy started taking the income from every one of those and putting it in savings, called it his retirement fund.

[Xist]

I am sure there are perfectly legitimate reasons to have one of those in your truck besides bragging rights.

I checked again and it is saying $652 - 877 for an HX. I do not remember it asking which submodel before.

CX, DX, and LX:
EX: $621 to 847
EX: $640 to 865
GX: $661 to 816
Si:: $782 to 1003

The cheaper models do not have EGR. The Si is more complicated. The GX is natural gas, so it makes sense that it could cost more, I just find it curious that it also might be cheaper.

Apparently when I looked it up before I just searched for what I put in the title and I found: https://repairpal.com/estimator/hond...placement-cost



For a 2005 it says $1,076 - 1,358 and does not ask for submodels.
For a 2010 it says $1,433 - 2,053 and asks for submodels.
For a 2010 it says $1,003 - 2,024 and asks for engines.
For a 2018 it says $1,722 - 2,147 and does not ask for submodels.

[Shaneajanderson]

Originally Posted by Xist

I am sure there are perfectly legitimate reasons to have one of those in your truck besides bragging rights.

Not really, the 7.3 is more efficient, more reliable, simpler to work on, and can be made to match the power of the 6.0 (not that it doesn't make ample enough power for any reasonable use already.) The newer 6.7 is all of the things I said about the 7.3, except perhaps simpler to work on, simply because I have no experience working on one.

The 6.0's also burn up $4,000 worth of injectors if they run out of fuel, the others don't do so.

[Xist]

Originally Posted by Xist

So far, I am missing:

[...T]two [...] nuts attaching the second [exhaust] pipe to a second bracket.

[...]

I also had two nuts under the car. I do not know where they go!

Those are the same nuts. They are also $2.60 each, plus shipping, which works out to $9.57. Six fasteners totaled $10.87 from Majestic and shipping was $9.49. I tried several other parts that have had the best price in the past. The best was 28¢ cheaper, $10.59 for six nuts and bolts, but shipping was more, and one only carried 55¢ nuts in bags of twenty-five.

I only needed one!

I paid 35¢ extra to receive it 2 - 4 days earlier.

I could not find any coupon codes.

[jcp123]

Originally Posted by Shaneajanderson

Not really, the 7.3 is more efficient, more reliable, simpler to work on, and can be made to match the power of the 6.0 (not that it doesn't make ample enough power for any reasonable use already.) The newer 6.7 is all of the things I said about the 7.3, except perhaps simpler to work on, simply because I have no experience working on one.

The 6.0's also burn up $4,000 worth of injectors if they run out of fuel, the others don't do so.

7.3PSD is where i’d go if I needed midrange tow capacity from a pickup. Modern diesels have awesome capabilities, but short of that, a late 7.3 is simpler and cheaper to operate, long-term, and you could get a 5-speed stick into the early 2000s. Dodge Cummins had a stick till ca. 2010? But by then, we are into the diesel catalyst period, which negates a lot of a diesel’s efficiency gains, and not quite into the DEF era, which solved the efficiency problem but produced a reliability problem. The 6.0 was trash, by the time the 6.4 came along, at least the reliability issues had been solved. The 6.0PSD is the least favorite of my options for a diesel truck.

And still a solid no, I wouldn’t resurface my own head. Civics are gems about being easy to work on, so I’d try to recoup that cost elsewhere.

[Shaneajanderson]

Originally Posted by jcp123

7.3PSD is where i’d go if I needed midrange tow capacity from a pickup. Modern diesels have awesome capabilities, but short of that, a late 7.3 is simpler and cheaper to operate, long-term, and you could get a 5-speed stick into the early 2000s. Dodge Cummins had a stick till ca. 2010? But by then, we are into the diesel catalyst period, which negates a lot of a diesel’s efficiency gains, and not quite into the DEF era, which solved the efficiency problem but produced a reliability problem. The 6.0 was trash, by the time the 6.4 came along, at least the reliability issues had been solved. The 6.0PSD is the least favorite of my options for a diesel truck.

And still a solid no, I wouldn’t resurface my own head. Civics are gems about being easy to work on, so I’d try to recoup that cost elsewhere.

The 6.4 had head gasket issues, egr issues, and injector issues too, though a little less prevelant.

Agreed on simplicity of the older diesels, that's why I like the 7.3. FWIW the Cummins dodges were available with a 6-speed standard through 2019 model year, though with DEF and all the other nonsense.

[Xist]

Don't worry, guys, I just gorilla-glued it back together!



Someone here told me to go to Ace, but 22mm is challenging. I once spent a ridiculous amount of time trimming threaded rod with a brand-new hacksaw.

I do not want to do that again!

I felt that the guy at Ace was wasting my time until he recommended using a washer as a spacer. He still wanted me to buy both, though.

The problem is that the highest Ace has is 8.8 and the broken one has a 10 on it. As far as I can tell, there is only a 10.9 (or they round up from 9.9? ) and that is 30% stronger than an 8.8.

O'Reilly's has a 20mm 10.9 bolt, but it is not flange-head, and it is $9.49, which is exactly what Majestic charges for shipping for their $2.77 bolt.

Napa has two that are exactly the right size, one is 79¢ and the other is $1.29, but both are 8.8.

Okay. Lowe's has a three-pack of 25mm grade 10.9 bolts for $2.18, so while I feel it is 2/3rds a waste because I would only use one bolt, it is less than $1.50.

Also, someone on Imgur pointed out that Honda uses the same fasteners on many vehicles for many years. I looked at Honda Parts Now and they used this bolt on all of their engines for at least four years. I think the one junkyard had three older Accords, but maybe they had other Hondas. They open at 08.