09-10-2010, 01:16 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skyl4rk
EOC is more effective that P&G
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Sure is, but it doesn't get you as far
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Strayed to the Dark Diesel Side
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09-10-2010, 04:14 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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There is always Pulse and EOC.
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I move at the speed of awesome.
"It's not rocket surgery!" -MetroMPG
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09-10-2010, 05:43 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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aero guerrilla
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Pale is a cheater, he only enters every other fill up, but enters all the miles! Just kidding
As mentioned earlier, PM can account for every mile and every gallon in his log, and is glad to help other members.
Do I recall correctly that he is alternator-less?
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e·co·mod·ding: the art of turning vehicles into what they should be
What matters is where you're going, not how fast.
"... we humans tend to screw up everything that's good enough as it is...or everything that we're attracted to, we love to go and defile it." - Chris Cornell
[Old] Piwoslaw's Peugeot 307sw modding thread
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09-10-2010, 06:34 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Left Lane Ecodriver
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No, the alternator is hooked up, it just spends so little time turning that it can't keep up with the car's electrical load, especially at night. Hence, it's grid charged a few times a week.
We should get Mr. Melanesian in on this conversation.
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09-10-2010, 07:20 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Bus - '94 Ford School Bus huge Stupid - '01 Chevy Blazer LS 90 day: 21.38 mpg (US) hawk - '00 Honda Superhawk
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amd was a mis type. As for easing your leg pains...
1st, its a 1.6 and doesn't have that tough of a clutch (although I have that big of a leg)
2nd, clutching into gear is necessary, clutching out of gear is not. Releasing drivetrain load with a careful throttle foot while keeping a very small load on the lever will get you into neutral with no damage to the synchros. I have driven all my manuals like this (especially going into a coast).
3rd, if you are EOC but not P&G, then you must only be coasting to stops. Combining the two strategies will yield gains. Finding the speed that your vehicle likes is also important. This is difficult if you dont have city or rural driving to do, as traffic can determine your ability to achieve these.
Things to try. Ditch the pass. mirror, if you dont want to do the antenna removal or relocate just bend it and reduce the frontal area of it as well as changing the profile of the antenna in relation to the air. There are a dozen more mods that you can make that cost nearly nothing.
Good job on the 50ish mpg, I never was able to do it.
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09-11-2010, 12:15 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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P&G with EOC
Wait, I don't understand how I would do a P&G with EOC
So I go to pulse to say 60mph, then I have to clutch, turn of the engine, and glide down to say 50mph
then reengage the clutch (which turns the engine back on), accelerate at full throttle (to minimize BSFC) to 60mph, then clutch and turn off the engine.
But that would kill my left leg with all that clutching. Is there a smarter way to P&G? I just don't understand how anyone actually does P&G in the real world (although the theory makes good sense)
How does Palemalenesian P&G?
Thanks
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09-11-2010, 02:15 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Left Lane Ecodriver
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Right, P&G isn't the most practical thing in the world, and IMO you can't do it in traffic unless you're on hills that allow you to hold a roughly constant speed.
You've got the right idea, only instead of just dumping the clutch at 50mph, you should do a bump start: let the clutch pedal out for a quarter of a second, push it back in, apply throttle to rev match, then let the clutch out. It becomes very easy to do with practice.
If you have a hybrid, though, you can use the electric motor to restart the engine. It's only due to software limitations that I can't also have it rev-match for me.
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09-11-2010, 02:52 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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why rev match? if I leave the throttle fully open (to minimize BSFC) then the engine will start and go to the right rpm as fast as it can, and then start increasing rpm's as the speed goes from 50mph to 60mph
I guess I don't understand rev matching, can you please explain a little more?
Thanks
gm
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09-11-2010, 03:11 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96sentra
Wait, I don't understand how I would do a P&G with EOC
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The glide is actually coasting engine off - just not coasting down to a stop, but to your prefered lower speed.
Quote:
So I go to pulse to say 60mph, then I have to clutch, turn of the engine, and glide down to say 50mph
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Yes.
Quote:
then reengage the clutch (which turns the engine back on), accelerate at full throttle (to minimize BSFC) to 60mph, then clutch and turn off the engine.
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Acceleration depends on what your car consumes when accelerating.
You shouldn't use too much in the pulse, or it isn't worthwhile.
Pulsing and gliding times are approx. equal - depends on the car though.
In mpg, you should accelerate at better than half your normal mpg for constant speed.
(In L/100km , you shouldn't go near double your normal fuel consumption for constant speed)
Quote:
But that would kill my left leg with all that clutching.
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It's obviously a lot of work.
Quote:
Is there a smarter way to P&G? I just don't understand how anyone actually does P&G in the real world
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Buy a prius and stay under 42mph.
It'll do it just by lifting and pressing down your right foot !
Driving technique: exploring 'Pulse and Glide' - MetroMPG.com
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09-11-2010, 04:28 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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aero guerrilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96sentra
But that would kill my left leg with all that clutching.
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Yes, it hurts the first few times... But once you start training you'll build up those muscles
__________________
e·co·mod·ding: the art of turning vehicles into what they should be
What matters is where you're going, not how fast.
"... we humans tend to screw up everything that's good enough as it is...or everything that we're attracted to, we love to go and defile it." - Chris Cornell
[Old] Piwoslaw's Peugeot 307sw modding thread
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