09-11-2010, 05:54 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Bus - '94 Ford School Bus huge Stupid - '01 Chevy Blazer LS 90 day: 21.38 mpg (US) hawk - '00 Honda Superhawk
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who is clutching out of gear for a coasting session? as I said earlier, you can slide it out of gear without any excitement. This will minimize wear and tear as well as your fatigue.
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09-11-2010, 08:49 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Left Lane Ecodriver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96sentra
why rev match? if I leave the throttle fully open (to minimize BSFC) then the engine will start and go to the right rpm as fast as it can, and then start increasing rpm's as the speed goes from 50mph to 60mph
I guess I don't understand rev matching, can you please explain a little more?
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gm
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Suppose 5th gear at 50mph corresponds to 2000RPM. If you bring the engine up to 2000RPM before you let out the clutch, you'll have a smooth ride and less wear on parts of your transmission and driveline. You should rev match every time you downshift or shift from N while the car is in motion.
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09-14-2010, 06:49 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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See ya at the next light!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96sentra
Wait, I don't understand how I would do a P&G with EOC
So I go to pulse to say 60mph, then I have to clutch, turn of the engine, and glide down to say 50mph
then reengage the clutch (which turns the engine back on), accelerate at full throttle (to minimize BSFC) to 60mph, then clutch and turn off the engine.
But that would kill my left leg with all that clutching. Is there a smarter way to P&G? I just don't understand how anyone actually does P&G in the real world (although the theory makes good sense)
How does Palemalenesian P&G?
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A full throttle pulse doesn't sound right. Also, P+G from 60-50 is going to happen pretty fast, meaning your going to be doing a lot of work with your left foot. I don't think it will offer much of a gain over steady DWL at 55. Freeway P+G isn't easy unless you're going down a steady grade or have a more aerodynamic car.
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09-14-2010, 07:35 PM
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#24 (permalink)
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Administrator
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I completely disagree (as would Pale I'm sure). P&G is how we both attain our high numbers, highway or city driving. Without it its very difficult to get that high of mileage without extensive mods or slowing waaaay down.
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09-14-2010, 10:20 PM
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#25 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Apr 2010
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I know my cost time with my probe I owned was considerable, and there were hills (not mountains) that I would pick up speed coasting over 65mph. An aero car with the right grades and gliding is going to make a difference at any speed. My blazer on the other hand doesn't cost anywhere, and there are big hills that I can't gain speed at all where I would with a car of any sort.
Last edited by autoteach; 09-21-2010 at 09:59 PM..
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09-21-2010, 04:15 PM
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#26 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I noticed the Mercedes 240D as a high mileage leader in the garage. I think it's a bit deceptive to not count the vegetable oil fuel as part of the mpg calculation. Realistically without modification an automatic 240D is not going to exceed 30mpg. Along those lines my diesels make 100+mpg as well as I only burn petroleum diesel in a 50% ratio during the 4-5 winter months.
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09-21-2010, 06:17 PM
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#27 (permalink)
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Basjoos Wannabe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96sentra
Wait, I don't understand how I would do a P&G with EOC
So I go to pulse to say 60mph, then I have to clutch, turn of the engine, and glide down to say 50mph
then reengage the clutch (which turns the engine back on), accelerate at full throttle (to minimize BSFC) to 60mph, then clutch and turn off the engine.
But that would kill my left leg with all that clutching. Is there a smarter way to P&G? I just don't understand how anyone actually does P&G in the real world (although the theory makes good sense)
How does Palemalenesian P&G?
Thanks
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You can also just pull the thing out of gear without the clutch; use the gas pedal to ease the strain on the gear box then push it into neutral. WHen done right, it takes only the pressure of a single finger to push it out of gear, and doesn't harm the transaxle in any way.
Adding a fuel cut off switch to kill the fuel pump would be an easy mod and make it easier to kill the engine without using the key. Especially if your speedo is electronic controlled and dies without the key on, most modern cars are like this.
And as piwosalw said, your leg will get stronger
(BTW, don't start your glide phase if hills or traffic dictate it to be a bad idea.)
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RIP Maxima 1997-2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesqf
I think you missed the point I was trying to make, which is that it's not rational to do either speed or fuel economy mods for economic reasons. You do it as a form of recreation, for the fun and for the challenge.
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09-29-2010, 10:58 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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Diesel Addict
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UFO
I noticed the Mercedes 240D as a high mileage leader in the garage. I think it's a bit deceptive to not count the vegetable oil fuel as part of the mpg calculation. Realistically without modification an automatic 240D is not going to exceed 30mpg. Along those lines my diesels make 100+mpg as well as I only burn petroleum diesel in a 50% ratio during the 4-5 winter months.
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Eco also stands for economical. I don't pay for WVO, and over the years my processing unit had been paid off (from using the free fuel). My mileage (113 mpg) is based off of 113 miles per fossil-fuel/paid for/diesel gallon. So there is no deception if you read the facts.
My two tank system is the modification, just like a former gasoline car being turned into an all electric one.
Also, UFO I've been trying to figure how you get 153 mpg??
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09-29-2010, 12:09 PM
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#29 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseleverything
Eco also stands for economical. I don't pay for WVO, and over the years my processing unit had been paid off (from using the free fuel). My mileage (113 mpg) is based off of 113 miles per fossil-fuel/paid for/diesel gallon. So there is no deception if you read the facts.
My two tank system is the modification, just like a former gasoline car being turned into an all electric one.
Also, UFO I've been trying to figure how you get 153 mpg??
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exactly the same way. My WVO is from recycled fryer oil, and the biodiesel is made with 17% by volume petroleum-derived methanol. I'm not sure of the facts you assert, as MPGe is generally perceived to be the energy required to move your vehicle, that's how realistic numbers can be compared regardless of the energy source.
In that same light, if you have Prius with a plug-in option, and you get 150mpg going to the store and back, you are failing to calculate the electricity from the grid used to boost the battery.
If I calculated the mileage for my Beetle the same way you do, I get 247 MPG. I think that is misleading.
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I'm not coasting, I'm shifting slowly.
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10-13-2010, 10:45 AM
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#30 (permalink)
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aero guerrilla
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That's why we should be counting the total amount of fuel poured into the tank(s), not just the fuel that came from a well.
Running on waste veggie oil is a good thing, but it should be accounted for in the fuel log, else you're comparing apples and oranges. If someone is running on gas with 15% alcohol, then should his fe be 15% better?
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e·co·mod·ding: the art of turning vehicles into what they should be
What matters is where you're going, not how fast.
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[Old] Piwoslaw's Peugeot 307sw modding thread
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