Paul & Sabrina's cheap DIY 144v motor controller

[TheSGC]

I really do like the look of the kit!

I just got my EV back on the road this past weekend and now I am doing all the testing and tweaking I can.(It's a 1996 Civic LX with automatic transmission.)

[Royal]

Hello Paul:

I am a toolmaker by trade. I am going to lose my present job in the fall of 2009. I had my own machine shop for ten years. I closed my shop in 1998. If there is enough interest I might reopen it to do work for EcoModders. I see that you have several metal parts in your controller. If I get my shop open again I would be interested in making parts for you. We might be able to make a barter deal. If I get my shop open I could make motor adaptor plates and motor shaft couplers.

Thank you,

Royal

[Royal]

[QUOTE=MPaulHolmes;110561]I'm shipping out Adrian's (unassembled) controller tomorrow. Here are a few pictures:

Hello Paul:

Let me know how much you think a kit might cost. I will start saving now! Great job!

Thank you,

Royal

[Tango Charlie]

Loving the nice crisp pictures, Paul!

[MPaulHolmes]

Thanks Tango Charlie!!! Thank you, Blowncurtis! mcudogs, that means a lot to me! thank you!

Watt-a-mezz: Hmm... I think basically, you need to know how to solder, and that's it. You would basically need a heavy duty 150w (or so) soldering gun from like radio shack to get the mosfets/diodes/caps to stick to heavy copper PCB. They are around $30. If we could get some videos together that shows proper soldering technique, then I believe anyone that shows attention to detail can do it.

soldering the control section seems to me to be a potential problem for people. It would be really nice if we could get all the parts converted to surface mount, and then have a computer place the parts, and have it soldered with some weird wave soldering machine. Adamjb12 has a friend that works at a place that does that. Adam12bj? Adambj12? hehe. I forgot. I now know him as Adam.

Drilling and etching of power section can be done by CNC pretty quickly, so I don't see that as a major cost down the road. I'm going to get my mill converted to CNC to help with that eventually. If it doesn't eat up too much of my time, then I don't mind doing it very affordably.

It would be nice if people could do a bulk buy to drive prices down. I don't really want to set a price to make a controller. I would rather people work together with the parts they can do. Maybe whoever helps with whatever charges whatever they want, and if people don't want to pay that, then they go elsewhere? I don't know. My only goal is that a working freeway capable controller is made available as cheaply as possible, without eating up my family time. ya!

Royal: We definitely need to talk! That's awesome! Thank you!

[wjdennis]

Paul,
I was looking over the BOM for the power section. It lists 10 diodes. When I clicked on the diode's link to Digikey, I saw 30A listed as the diode's rating. 30A * 10 equals only 300A. Are those really the diodes you're using, or is there something about the ratings that I'm not understanding?

Thanks.

Bill

[watt-a-mezz]

Hi Paul. Thanks for the reply. I was wondering about the control board after I posted. The other parts do not seem to be very hard to assemble. Took a look at your website, and I was able to find the paypal/donate section, and now I know how to use it. How ever I could be of help with your project, let me know. Keep up the good work. Watt

[MPaulHolmes]

Originally Posted by wjdennis

Paul,
I was looking over the BOM for the power section. It lists 10 diodes. When I clicked on the diode's link to Digikey, I saw 30A listed as the diode's rating. 30A * 10 equals only 300A. Are those really the diodes you're using, or is there something about the ratings that I'm not understanding?

Thanks.

Bill

Hey Bill! Each stth6002c "diode" is actually 2 diodes inside.

http://www.st.com/stonline/products/.../stth6002c.pdf

There are 3 legs. One diode goes from Leg 3 to leg 2, and another diode goes from leg 1 to leg 2. So, each stth6002c part can handle 60amps RMS. So, 10 can handle 600 amps RMS. Isn't that sort of confusing?! man! Diode Makers these days!

Watt: The control board is all labeled with each part number and orientation, so it's not TOOOOOO bad, but still. hehe.. Definitely a place where a lot of mistakes could creep in. That's why I would really like to remove the human from the loop on that part. The rest is basically like putting a puzzle together.

[jeffkay]

Originally Posted by MPaulHolmes

Numerous people I read about on the EVDL use a 100watt lightbulb, which allows the capacitors to charge in a couple seconds.

Hey Paul and readers, On "Deep Cycle" I use a precharge "resistor" made from a 200 watt bulb that goes in those Home Depot type yellow work lights. It is simply wrapped in electrical tape up under the seat. No sparks at all when engaging the Altrax 72v/450a controller... Cheap and easy to obtain...
Jeff K.

[blowncurtice]

Paul
Your web page shows "Bill of materials still under construction" do you intend to have a full list or should we make our own from your "Rev2B Schematic" also are you going to make the circuit boards available for us to mount the components on, also the software, I may not have followed you properly but I have the impression that we have to program the Controller from a laptop.
Maybe a how to assemble doc would be helpfull.
Please let me know what boards you have for distribution and their cost I would love to get started.
John