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Old 05-23-2010, 07:25 PM   #71 (permalink)
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Now I am trying to determine if my used DMF is any good or not.
The rotational play looks about right, but the play to and from the solid mass worries me.



This is a new one for comparison

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Old 05-24-2010, 01:46 AM   #72 (permalink)
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great dmf tech sheet
http://www.schaeffler.com/remotemedi..._zms_de_en.pdf
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Old 05-24-2010, 02:03 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dremd View Post
I'm certainly not an expert, but that looks to be way too much free play, both side to side, as well as the wobble.

From the few new ones I've seen, anyway. There was a DMF on my '97 Golf. I never took pics, but it made all kinds of obscene noises, and moved a bit like yours.

Had I kept the car, I'd have replaced it with a stock weight (or lighter) solid wheel. No point in putting a heavy solid wheel on, as some have suggested. It does nothing for anything, and won't help the chatter situation either. Proper use of the clutch will help with chatter...
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Old 05-24-2010, 02:37 AM   #74 (permalink)
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I'm no expert either, the only line keeping me from calling it bad right now is
Quote:
Depending on the design, axial play between the primary and secondary masses can be up to 2 mm. > On some models with plain bearing axialplay can be
up to 6 mm.
And I "Think" I have a plain bearing.

So I guess the real answer is find out what the spec for a Sachs VW TDI 6 speed DMF is, I'm guessing I'll have to find that in a European service manual.
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Old 05-24-2010, 03:46 AM   #75 (permalink)
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1.84mm axial play or wobble.
Spec appears to be 2mm I'm going to try it!
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Old 05-25-2010, 11:41 AM   #76 (permalink)
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on the topic of DMF, I'm considering why my shifting is compromised currently, i.e. draggy bearing, gunk, hydraulic system, dmf coming "unglued". If the dmf is compromised, can it be welded/bolted into one piece and just deal with the reduced smoothness? They look pretty pricey for some extra level of "smoothness", a concern not my own.
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:25 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcb View Post
If the dmf is compromised, can it be welded/bolted into one piece and just deal with the reduced smoothness?
I don't know, but I can not see why not . . .
However I see others saying NO!

Looking at mine (2) I think welding would be easiest + best. However you would have to be certain that the axial play was centered before welding.
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Old 05-25-2010, 12:59 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcb View Post
on the topic of DMF, I'm considering why my shifting is compromised currently, i.e. draggy bearing, gunk, hydraulic system, dmf coming "unglued". If the dmf is compromised, can it be welded/bolted into one piece and just deal with the reduced smoothness? They look pretty pricey for some extra level of "smoothness", a concern not my own.
By the time you get it properly ground, welded, machined, and re-balanced, you're better off buying a SMF replacement. Plus, with a SMF, you get a lighter flywheel in the end, even if you buy a heavy one, which, again, makes no sense.
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Old 05-25-2010, 10:37 PM   #79 (permalink)
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recieved the 12mm tripple square this afternoon!
flywheel swapped, clutch installed, transmission installed, exhaust removed, shifter replaced, exhaust installed 6 speed golf ball shift knob installed, clutch plumbed, starter installed, wires repaired (my helper couldn't unclip a speed sensor while I was holding the transmission on my chest so we cut it), axles installed.

Currently waiting on brake fluid (used all of mine up on the ASR install) and a nut for the back of one of the bell housing bolts.
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Old 05-26-2010, 12:30 PM   #80 (permalink)
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ERR
The drain plug was beat to hell in england by someone who didn't hve the correct tool; wish I had known that before . . . .

Also the shifter counterweight is colliding with the shifter cable for unknown reasons.

On the plus side, I have the clutch functional now, and the last transmission bolt in.

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