08-13-2014, 07:52 PM
|
#11 (permalink)
|
herp derp Apprentice
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lawrence, KS
Posts: 1,049
Thanks: 43
Thanked 331 Times in 233 Posts
|
right, thats what the standard block heater is, unscrew block drain, screw in heater, plug in and warm up your engine.
i think it was what brucepick's original intention was to do
Quote:
Originally Posted by brucepick
Heaters that install into a freeze plug opening are probably the most efficient of all. But I'm not that much of a mechanic and don't really want to open up things like exhaust gaskets, not to mention freeze plugs that have been in place for 15 years/270,000 miles. So that route was out for me.
Another solution that might have worked for an engine that had a recent overhaul, aka clean threads and surfaces all around: I found that ZeroStart makes a very nice heater that installs in the D16 series engine block drain, located just to the driver's side of the oil filter mount location. Part number 3100006. Perfect, I thought. Ordered and found my socket to fit the drain plug hex. As I recall it took a 17 mm. socket. However the drain plug's hex had only about 1/4" of "reach" into the open socket, not much to grip on. And even with a breaker bar, tapping on it with a hammer after spraying PB Blaster in the general area, I could not budge the plug. After 15 years and 270,000 miles the plug was in solidly.
|
i mentioned it so that you would know to be careful not to round off the current plug, and if it didnt come out there are are other options, this was one played out and well documented.
i have also used a stick on heater pad on my oil pan, and am thinking to add one to my trans
|
|
|
Today
|
|
|
Other popular topics in this forum...
|
|
|
08-13-2014, 08:27 PM
|
#12 (permalink)
|
Furry Furfag
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 2,084
Thanks: 67
Thanked 409 Times in 313 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000mc
right, thats what the standard block heater is, unscrew block drain, screw in heater, plug in and warm up your engine.
i think it was what brucepick's original intention was to do
i mentioned it so that you would know to be careful not to round off the current plug, and if it didnt come out there are are other options, this was one played out and well documented.
i have also used a stick on heater pad on my oil pan, and am thinking to add one to my trans
|
Ohhhh I see, yea that was his original intent. Can you link me to what you use for your oil?
__________________
|
|
|
08-13-2014, 11:44 PM
|
#13 (permalink)
|
Cyborg ECU
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Coastal Southern California
Posts: 6,299
Thanks: 2,373
Thanked 2,174 Times in 1,470 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fat Charlie
Kill switch.
|
Agree
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtydave
Ac and power steering delete maybe even an alternator delete or you could probably leave the belt off if you only drive 5 miles to work.
|
Agree
Quote:
Originally Posted by basjoos
Engine block heater
Full grill block that can be partially or completely opened by the driver...
...reduce weight, decrease rolling resistance, and reduce the time it takes for your engine to heat up to normal operating temps will help. Aerodynamic improvements will help but are less dominant at those speeds.
|
Agree
For a short commute, you could remove the front passenger seat to get rid of 35 or so lbs.
In my experience with the exact gearing you will get from your VX trans, unfortunately, it is not better for stop and go driving. It is best at 55-65 mph freeway cruise. BUT, the HX's lean burn will work way down at 25 mph. And I have found that my DX loves the 4th gear down to 25mph and fifth gear way down to 35mph. I get great instant mpg numbers (like 70 or 80+ mpg) and a lean AFR in my DX at those speeds in those gears. So depending on the specifics of your route, you might perfect some cool low speed lean burn cruising in 4th and 5th. That would be quite cool.
__________________
See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
|
|
|
08-14-2014, 12:40 AM
|
#14 (permalink)
|
herp derp Apprentice
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Lawrence, KS
Posts: 1,049
Thanks: 43
Thanked 331 Times in 233 Posts
|
i used Amazon.com: Kat's 24100 100 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater: Automotive
i would agree with others, that larger heaters for a short duration would be more effective and efficient, but i've gone with a wattage that shouldnt come back to bite me if i forget having plugged it in w/o a timer in place. i followed the kats usage guide, which shows
Engine Oil Pan
2-5 quarts 100 WATTS
5-8 quarts 150 WATTS
8-20 quarts 250 WATTS
20-35 quarts 500 WATTS
|
|
|
08-14-2014, 01:08 AM
|
#15 (permalink)
|
Furry Furfag
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 2,084
Thanks: 67
Thanked 409 Times in 313 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic
Agree
Agree
Agree
For a short commute, you could remove the front passenger seat to get rid of 35 or so lbs.
In my experience with the exact gearing you will get from your VX trans, unfortunately, it is not better for stop and go driving. It is best at 55-65 mph freeway cruise. BUT, the HX's lean burn will work way down at 25 mph. And I have found that my DX loves the 4th gear down to 25mph and fifth gear way down to 35mph. I get great instant mpg numbers (like 70 or 80+ mpg) and a lean AFR in my DX at those speeds in those gears. So depending on the specifics of your route, you might perfect some cool low speed lean burn cruising in 4th and 5th. That would be quite cool.
|
4 1/2 miles of my 5 mile commute is 35-60mph speed zones and on top of that, I'm going to be working graveyard so there will be almost no traffic which means no red lights.
__________________
|
|
|
08-14-2014, 01:12 AM
|
#16 (permalink)
|
Cyborg ECU
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Coastal Southern California
Posts: 6,299
Thanks: 2,373
Thanked 2,174 Times in 1,470 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
4 1/2 miles of my 5 mile commute is 35-60mph speed zones and on top of that, I'm going to be working graveyard so there will be almost no traffic which means no red lights.
|
Then you have a nice situation for some great cruising in lean burn. Get the block heater... the warmed engine will be key to getting into lean burn ASAP, especially on your return home drive, when you'll have the day's coldest dawn temps. You get down to 30s and less out there, no?
__________________
See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
|
|
|
08-14-2014, 02:05 AM
|
#17 (permalink)
|
Furry Furfag
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Apple Valley
Posts: 2,084
Thanks: 67
Thanked 409 Times in 313 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic
Then you have a nice situation for some great cruising in lean burn. Get the block heater... the warmed engine will be key to getting into lean burn ASAP, especially on your return home drive, when you'll have the day's coldest dawn temps. You get down to 30s and less out there, no?
|
Yea in the dead of winter. Also, lean burn doesn't work anymore. No idea why, no CEL, no trouble codes nothing. Just won't engage. It all started after the P0401 CEL. After I cleaned it out it the CEL went away, but L/B never came back. And even when it does, going downhill using like 12% throttle it's so rough of a transition it normally brings itself out.
Also, I don't have access a plug at work so I can't pre warm at work.
__________________
|
|
|
08-14-2014, 06:27 AM
|
#18 (permalink)
|
Master EcoModder
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Australia
Posts: 1,510
Thanks: 325
Thanked 453 Times in 320 Posts
|
Run your oil at the MIN mark to aid warm up. You'll need to check it more often as some of your safety margin is gone.
|
|
|
08-14-2014, 06:35 AM
|
#19 (permalink)
|
(:
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: up north
Posts: 12,762
Thanks: 1,585
Thanked 3,556 Times in 2,218 Posts
|
I'd bike five miles... and I'm OLD.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Frank Lee For This Useful Post:
|
|
08-14-2014, 10:11 AM
|
#20 (permalink)
|
EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Irvine
Posts: 54
Thanks: 2
Thanked 11 Times in 5 Posts
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf
Aren't engine block heaters 200$+?
|
I thought they were $90..... at least that's how much Ford advertises as an addon for Fusion's engine.
Aero is irrelevant at city speeds, but stop/go is a killer because you use ~50000 watts to get moving & then waste the energy as heat when you brake.
I'd strip your car of rear seats, carpeting, sound-deadening materials attached to the hood. Go on a diet. ![Wink](/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif) Anything to shed 1000 pounds. Of course the ideal car would be one weighing less than 2000 pounds... like the aluminum insight. ![Big Grin](/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
|
|
|
|