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Old 03-24-2015, 07:41 PM   #461 (permalink)
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Outside the cafe at Bonneville, I demonstrated to aerohead how I could use the stock engine compartment lid on my Superbeetle as the top of a boattail.

Moments ago it occurred to me that wheelie bars are a 'stock' racing part; and I could use them to support a boattail that only touches ground in driveways and off-road. It can pivot on cut-down bumper brackets.

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Old 03-24-2015, 07:49 PM   #462 (permalink)
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wheelie cars

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Originally Posted by freebeard View Post
Outside the cafe at Bonneville, I demonstrated to aerohead how I could use the stock engine compartment lid on my Superbeetle as the top of a boattail.

Moments ago it occurred to me that wheelie bars are a 'stock' racing part; and I could use them to support a boattail that only touches ground in driveways and off-road. It can pivot on cut-down bumper brackets.
It would be great! I've seen some NHRA drag bikes which did this.They were never mentioned as a high-performance technology.Funny world.
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:34 PM   #463 (permalink)
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So far, I think the leverage for springing would be between the bumper brackets and the frame horns. Else, two parallel cross-braces 2-3" off the pivot line, wrapped with bungee cord like a WWI airplane's landing gear.

What I haven't figured out is how to make a sliding catch for the hood latch. More bungee?
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Old 03-26-2015, 12:51 AM   #464 (permalink)
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Thinking about using a 35" long slotted angle iron in 14 gauge to hang off of the upper pivot bolt per side as the main support fer the lazy Susan round gap cover. Stabilizer support will be attached to the axle shaft and secured to the front of the main support. I will keep an option to attach another support to the rear of the main rail if necessary. With the slotted angle iron main rail, I should be able to easily hang the wheel pant from there.
Crown Bolt, 1-1/2 in. x 14-Gauge x 36 in. Zinc-Plated Slotted Angle, 18220 at The Home Depot - Tablet

As far as the gap cover goes, I should be able to make a Foamular and Coroplast sandwich so it will be lightweight, durable, and stiff without any extra support.
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:56 AM   #465 (permalink)
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Old 03-26-2015, 05:14 PM   #466 (permalink)
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Got the main rails cut, drilled, and installed. I still have to add in supports.





Hopefully this version will hold up to the road abuse.
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:14 AM   #467 (permalink)
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I have the main rails tied together at the front and back spaced at 6½" with 5/16" bolts and ½" PVC pipe.

I think I have my side supports figured out by using 5/16" thread-all tensioned with ½" PVC pipe as the arms secured with a washer and nut.

A quick snapshot of the uncut thread-all ready to be sized up...



The lazy Susan belly pan will consist of a single layer of Coroplast ziptied to the support structure which should be able to provide enough rigidity to the belly pan.

I will have to find something to provide the outer enclosure to the lazy Susan belly pan. Maybe a 36" diameter metal ring...maybe from an industrial/commercial HVAC system. I could also build it from some gutter guard and cover that with something.
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Old 03-28-2015, 03:01 AM   #468 (permalink)
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Got the arms cut and tensioned...






Installed a new tire as the previous tire had about 25,000 mile on it over the past year and a half and had started to wear more on the left side of the tire.

Hit all the zerks with grease so everything will be super smooth with new grease.

The lazy Susan belly pan cover will be approximately a diameter of 34.5" which should give about 1.5" fer clearance.
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Last edited by BamZipPow; 03-28-2015 at 03:16 AM..
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Old 03-28-2015, 09:50 PM   #469 (permalink)
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Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2014) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2015) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

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90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)

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Main rail supports are drilled and installed off of the axle. I used 4.25" PVC pipe spacers and 5/16" bolts to hold them in place.



I might have to lose the bottom Coroplast liner as the main rail comes close to contacting it when Dark Aero is being backed up.



Since the first version failed due to the road vibrations, I've changed the load distribution and material strength on this version. Hopefully this version will hold up better.
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Old 03-29-2015, 06:28 AM   #470 (permalink)
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Last 3: 23.66 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2009) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 19.01 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2012) - '98 Toyota T-100 ext cab - 3.4L/auto SR5
Last 3: 25.45 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2013) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 25.79 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2014) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.18 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2015) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 23.85 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2016) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
Last 3: 17.62 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2017) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.78 mpg (US)

BZP T-100 (2018) - '98 Toyota T-100 SR5
90 day: 20.19 mpg (US)

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So as I think about how I can git a lower profile fer the rear part of the main rails to gain maximum clearance from the bottom panel, I believe I can cut the vertical "fins" off just past the vertical supports. I should be able to bolt in a horizontal flat bar to keep the spacing and support in the rear the same as the front.

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