02-17-2012, 09:51 PM
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#61 (permalink)
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MPG Militia HMV-25E80+A
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Setback- I just got the head off the 1.6 diesel. #2 and 3 cylinder are rusted badly. I don't know how much these blocks can be bored, but I don't think it will matter. Possible to sleeve, but, I don't know about the cost versus getting another engine. Thoughts?
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02-17-2012, 10:26 PM
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#62 (permalink)
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Do more with less
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: North Eastern Missouri
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Hi Jethro
If you are looking to run Bonneville, I think you should have your engine as good as it can be.
If you buy another used engine you are going to have 150,000 miles of ring wear to overcome.
If you rebuild you can optimize compression and other factors for optimum high rpm running.
The way I understand things is that the main enemy of high rpm power in a diesel is the high compression causing lots of resistance to speeding the engine up. They put cams in that work good at low rpm as well.
We went out past Bonneville in 2005 stopping at the salt flats on our way to record winning human powered run at Battle Mountain NV. Since then we saw the Burt Monro movie and want to return to the salt flats with motor power. We have a plan for 2013 but have to find a way to fund it.
__________________
“The further a society drifts from the truth, the more it will hate those that speak it.” George Orwell
“Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed; as they are in almost every kingdom in Europe.
The supreme power in America cannot enforce unjust laws by the sword; because the whole body of the people are armed.”
– Noah Webster, 1787
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02-17-2012, 10:41 PM
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#63 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jan 2010
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Better the devil you know than the devil you don't... as long as the engine is otherwise in good shape rebuild the one you have rather than an other lottery...
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02-23-2012, 08:38 PM
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#64 (permalink)
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MPG Militia HMV-25E80+A
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Machine shop lined up. Sleeves $90/hole. Machine shop will measure all holes and recommend sleeve vs. boring.
Also, I found this thread about using spray foam, like I used. They experienced shrinkage also. The more things change, the more they stay the same .
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02-23-2012, 09:13 PM
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#65 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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To quote a boss I once had "... the only person not making mistakes is the person not doing anything..."
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05-27-2012, 08:07 PM
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#66 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
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So where is this effort at, now. How many people are going?
__________________
See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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05-27-2012, 09:02 PM
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#67 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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The VT 500 is being prepaired for the ride to mid Ohio for the Vetter Challenge july 20, it should be ready for the ride around the block road test in a week or two and with an other week of fixing the unforseen it should be ready mid June. Then I can continue on with the work on the CBR 600, end of June July and August. If the CBR 600 is ready I can take it to Bonneville for the 150 mph club if not then the VT500 can be taken for the 130 mph club...
As September is an iffie month weather wise I may need to transport the bikes in a truck/van.
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05-31-2012, 10:05 PM
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#68 (permalink)
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MPG Militia HMV-25E80+A
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Still planning on going. Diesel power might not happen unless some unforeseen funding arises. However, if I do run gas out there, I'm going to have to, at least, re-ring and bearing it and a full head rebuild. I do have a line on an actually, running 1.6, but, again, funds have had to be diverted from their intended destination. Body work is going well, and I'll be working all weekend on getting the car ready for the SMCC rally next weekend. After that, all energies go toward Bonneville.
Final decisions on gas/diesel will have to be made by the end of June.
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06-11-2012, 06:58 PM
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#69 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Bonneville 130mph club info
I just read through this thread and have a few comments/answers, that you might already know by now. I'm a member of the '130mph Club' with 4 trips to Bonneville under my belt, have a moderate amount of LSR experience.
Hotels are generally inexpensive in Wendover during the September World of Speed event (WOS). In contrast to The August SCTA Speedweeek, rooms get old out 6 months before the event, raising prices to 3x at least. Tip for booking a room for Sept WOS: Don't tell the reservations clerk you are racing, you won't get any special deal. They want gamblers at the tables, not salty dogs tracking the white stuff through their casinos, and not spending money. Ask for their 'best price', AAA discount if you are a member. I think I booked through Hotels.com last year and got a decent deal at he Rainbow, which is a nice place with casino. The Peppermill is nice, as well. But their are several little 'room and shower' Best Western-type places that are clean and comfortable. Also,know that Wendover is a 'twin cities' with both Wendover NV, and Wendover UT adjacent to each other. Wendover NV has, casinos, a truck stop, liquor stores, even a titty bar. Wendover UT has a Library, a KOA camp ground, small motels, schools, and a great Autoparts store. Also a former airforce base steeped in WWII history, as the Enola Gay and crew trained there before helping to end the war.
Camping/lodging in September for WOS:
Camping; No camping near the pits or racing surface. Most guys who tent camp, motor home, tent trailer or whatever, just pull up a spot at 'the bend in the road'. An area between the I-80 offramp and the end of the road (where the salt flats sort of begin). I stayed at a hotel last year, but hung out at 'the bend' where some friends were camping for BBQ, bench racing, and a few adult beverages. Unimproved, mostly uncontrolled, racers have been staying out there for years. The event promoters usually bring in portapotties. Bonneville racers are generally the salt of the earth types, that look out for each other, bonded by the need for speed, and all things fast. Leaving your 'stuff', tent, BBQ, second car, at your ad hoc 'camp' should not worry you at all. Very important: The truck stop that you pass after getting off I-80 has pay showers and a decent hot breakfast, crucial information for the Bend in the Road primitive camper.
130mph club in general: 130mph club runs on the 1 mile short course, under its own 130mph club rules. This is a street car class, tech consists of making sure the car is safe in the event of a crash, but a lot more relaxed than the faster cars that run on the long course.
130 club tech inspection: Street car seat belts are ok. Battery must be bolted down, oem style clamp or better. No liquid fuel, battery, or hot oil inside the car. No fuel lines run inside the car. Car and driver must be licensed for public roads, have valid current registration AND insurance (they checked the car I drove). Helmet, long sleeves, long pants, closed shoes and socks. Additional safety gear is always allowed. They don't allow No2 injection, or gas engines running on methanol in the 130mph club. You don't have to use the 'event fuel' in 130mph club. There was a guy running at the 2011 world of speed using WVO in a Dasher that I talked to. The USFRA site a more complete set of rules
Aero and 130mph club: What most find is the aerodynamics play less of a part in getting your 130mph club entry than you'd think. It's only 1 mile long, with a fast shutdown and turnout area. Acceleration all the way to the 1 mile marker is key to top speed. Gearing for your power level is very important, so understanding what your car can and cannot do within the bounds of your engine/transmission package before coming out is very helpful. Bringing a couple of extra drive tire/wheel combinations with differing diameters, and doing some math before hand will usually increase your fun factor.
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06-11-2012, 07:51 PM
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#70 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: May 2012
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That's some great info! Makes me want to go! I just did some eco-unfriendly modding and now the car is faster - need to calm the right foot!
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