Catalytic Convert Confusion/Civic VX

[Davo53209@yahoo.com]

Latest update. I had to bite the bullet and buy the OEM catalytic converter, given that Bosal has told RockAuto.com, as well as myself that the bolt patterns to their direct fit CATs won't line up with the offset bolt pattern on a VX exhaust manifold.

In fact, RockAuto had mentioned that four other people have returned Bosal's direct fit catalytic converter due to this issue. To their credit, I am grateful to say that RockAuto has refunded me in full.

The moral of the story ,is that unless you're able to see an illustration of the bolt patter from an aftermarket CAT, it would appear that the OEM catalytic converter is the only way go. . The upside however, is that the substrates used in most aftermarket catalytic converters are guaranteed for up to 25,000 miles. The OEM CAT should last forever.

[Baltothewolf]

If you don't mind me asking, how much did the cat cost you?

[Davo53209@yahoo.com]

Originally Posted by Baltothewolf

If you don't mind me asking, how much did the cat cost you?

Trust me, it was ugly. More than I wanted to spend; but given that the aftermarket substrates only last a short time, I felt that it was best to do the job in one and be done. I'm still waiting for the part though.

Majestic Honda 877-864-0954 Honda Dealership West Warwick serving Warwick Rhode Island Seekonk Massachusetts

[mbolton1990]

~487.08 before shipping is what I saw it listed for.

Not half bad all things considered.

[Davo53209@yahoo.com]

Final update. As of yesterday, I'd received my OEM catalytic converter from Majestic Honda and installed it today.

Word to the wise, for those who are about to undertake this project, buy the OEM hardware for the converter studs from Honda. The 10mm nuts that you get from the auto parts store are too wide, where as your socket will not fit over the nut, and will ride against the curved channels on each side of the exhaust manifold.

Had I known this sooner, I would have saved myself a lot of time & frustration; but fortunately, there's a Honda dealership that was close to me which sold them for ninety-six cents apiece. After that, it all came together fast.

After, I torqued everything down to specs, I checked for exhaust leaks and then took the car for an hour test drive (i.e. I had just jumped the battery). With only one exception, everything about the installation went smooth. For the most part, the hunting idle is gone; but for some reason, it appears to come back whenever I have the heater on.... What do you guys make of that situation?

[vrmouseyd15b]

Originally Posted by Davo53209@yahoo.com

For the most part, the hunting idle is gone; but for some reason, it appears to come back whenever I have the heater on.... What do you guys make of that situation?

First thing I would check is the idle air control valve, second would be to try and "burp" the coolant system (my money is on a ditry idle air valve)

How To Solve Honda Idle Problems - EricTheCarGuy: http://youtu.be/L788jKEVblY

he gets to the good stuff at about 2:40

[Davo53209@yahoo.com]

Originally Posted by vrmouseyd15b

First thing I would check is the idle air control valve, second would be to try and "burp" the coolant system (my money is on a ditry idle air valve)

Well most recently, I did remove and thoroughly clean the idle air control valve. I sprayed it clean until there was nothing but clear carb cleaner dripping from it. It might be the cooling system. In fact, a flush and fill is my next task.

[vrmouseyd15b]

are you manual or auto?

the manual ones stick sometimes - an easy check that might free it up is to put the 2 wires directly to the battery - you should hear it click when 12v are applied. if you get that, hit it with brake kleen and good.

the automatic ones, you almost have to take it apart and make sure that the "barrel type cylinder" can flop around inside there. the automatic ones are spun by electromagnetic force, I believe and they really have to be able to flop open and closed. it will take brake kleen to get this style to spin...

EDIT
but with the automatic ones, you have to physically spin the air mixing valve thigie in there, they get buggered up with crap over time and will end up "jumping " from one extreme to another, rather than modulating the air bypassed at the thottle body.

not unlike how the manual ones get stuck. the trick in the manual one about putting direct batery voltage thru is is that you give it more power to " muscle " past the crap that's blocking it ( versus all the power lost at electrical connectors, relays, etc...) once it clicks, spray away and enjoy your smooth idle!!!!

[jcp123]

IIRC honda IACVs can be adjusted, too. Common problem with Hondas.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hB44oejFsL4

FWIW this guy and Eric The Car Guy have done videos together.

[California98Civic]

That's a great instructive vid. Thanks for that!