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Old 12-21-2014, 09:25 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Balto, with me being a complete noob as far as anything electrical goes, I have a question.

What is the relay for? Couldn't I just cut the yellow wires, and wire each end up to my on/off switch? What does the relay actually do?

I bought an on/off pop-up button switch and a roll of 18 gauge wire. They didn't have a five pin relay at Radio Shack, they only had a four pin, and like some eight and ten pins, so I didn't get one yet. I just want to make sure I need the relay before I order one on Amazon.

Also, is the 18 gauge wire sufficient?

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Old 12-26-2014, 04:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Okay Balto, mine's in! I followed your instructions exactly, other than I went in through the front firewall (with a small rubber grommet) ilo around the door frame..

Everything seems to be working correctly, other than it looks like I can't just throw it in neutral and EOC, I have to keep my foot on the clutch the whole time, or it wants to re-start. Of course, it can't re-start so it does a series of start-stop-start-stop, unless my foot is on the clutch.

Anybody else's doing that? I'm sure it's the FAS system trying to re-start it. One thing I didn't try was hitting my regen button, wish I would have tried that. It might fool the system into thinking I have my foot on the brake.

Thanks for the good write-up Balto. I didn't even need to call you, I just followed your instructions, so I know they were pretty well-written!
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Old 12-26-2014, 05:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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This is where the clutch switch shines! Just leave it on and bam you don't have to push the clutch. Just be sure to have it in neutral before you push the kill button.
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Old 12-26-2014, 06:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks!

I'll try that the next time I go out in it. I'm grid charging it at the moment, probably until about noon tomorrow. After that I'll check it out, that'll be sweet if it works.

On the bright side, as I was testing it out on short stop-and-starts, without the engine even being warmed up, my instant mpg want from 70.2 to 70.5, and I'm 300 miles into this tank. So I'm thinking I will see a large mpg gain using it, just like the jump I saw in Black Widow when I began to EOC in it.

***edit 1-4-15***

Yeah, that worked! Forgot to reply until just now.

As soon as I turn off the clutch switch, the injector kill button kills the injectors perfectly with no re-starts. When I turn the clutch switch back on, I use the brake regen button to keep the IMA topped off. I've done a bunch of very short trips with a lot of stop-and-go on this tank, and carpooled almost every work day with my wife, and I'm still hovering right at 70 mpg. I'm right at the end of the tank with about 615 miles and two bars left on the gas gauge. As long as it doesn't get super cold over the next couple of weeks I think I should be able to go way over 70 mpg on the next tank.
This next tank will be a full-on EOC tank with my normal commute, so it should be a good gauge of how much the kill switch affects the overall mpg.
I've also started to use my battery tender nightly to keep the 12V battery topped off since I'm doing so much EOCing now. Normally I leave for work when it's dark and return home when it's dark, so I use a lot of 12V juice.
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Old 01-04-2015, 09:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Let me get this straight:

Injector HOT (yellow wires, on the side running away from the injectors from the relay) should be tied together and connected to #30 and #85 on the relay.

Injector COLD (yellow wires, going TO injectors from relay) should be tied together and connected to #87a on the relay.

Kill switch should be connected to #86 (blue) and grounded to the chassis.

#87 on the relay should be grounded to the chassis.

~~

You ran two wires into the cabin. Am I right in thinking that's unnecessary? That is, it's fine to ground the switch near the steering column?

If I understand this correctly, is it safe to be grounding the constant-on power for the injectors? It's not a short? Would it have been better, though much more complicated, to relay the grounds to the injectors?

EDIT: Also, cowmeat provided me a fuse. If I were to guess, it probably goes between #87 and the chassis. Is this right?

EDIT2: Seems to me the short-circuit problem could be solved by swapping #87a and #30, because when the relay is activated, the connection is broken but the injector HOT isn't grounded.

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Old 01-04-2015, 10:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky View Post
Let me get this straight:

Injector HOT (yellow wires, on the side running away from the injectors from the relay) should be tied together and connected to #30 and #85 on the relay.

Injector COLD (yellow wires, going TO injectors from relay) should be tied together and connected to #87a on the relay.

Kill switch should be connected to #86 (blue) and grounded to the chassis.

#87 on the relay should be grounded to the chassis.

~~

You ran two wires into the cabin. Am I right in thinking that's unnecessary? That is, it's fine to ground the switch near the steering column?

If I understand this correctly, is it safe to be grounding the constant-on power for the injectors? It's not a short? Would it have been better, though much more complicated, to relay the grounds to the injectors?

EDIT: Also, cowmeat provided me a fuse. If I were to guess, it probably goes between #87 and the chassis. Is this right?

EDIT2: Seems to me the short-circuit problem could be solved by swapping #87a and #30, because when the relay is activated, the connection is broken but the injector HOT isn't grounded.
You could ground it in the cabin, but I choose not to due to safety concerns. I didn't want any potential freak accidents setting off the air bag. As for the other questions, I would have to walk out there and look to see how I wired everything.
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:24 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cowmeat View Post
Okay Balto, mine's in! I followed your instructions exactly, other than I went in through the front firewall (with a small rubber grommet) ilo around the door frame..

Everything seems to be working correctly, other than it looks like I can't just throw it in neutral and EOC, I have to keep my foot on the clutch the whole time, or it wants to re-start. Of course, it can't re-start so it does a series of start-stop-start-stop, unless my foot is on the clutch.

Anybody else's doing that? I'm sure it's the FAS system trying to re-start it. One thing I didn't try was hitting my regen button, wish I would have tried that. It might fobol the system into thinking I have my foot on the brake.

Thanks for the good write-up Balto. I didn't even need to call you, I just followed your instructions, so I know they were pretty well-written!
Nice! Yea you have to hold the clutch, or it will continously keep trying to restart. However, if you push the brake it won't restart either. At least it doesn't on mine.
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:29 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Makes sense. I'll try wiring it my way at the relay but I'll run the ground under the hood too.

EDIT: I wonder if it's even necessary to ground the relay.

Last edited by Ecky; 01-04-2015 at 10:42 PM..
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Old 01-04-2015, 11:10 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Makes sense. I'll try wiring it my way at the relay but I'll run the ground under the hood too.

EDIT: I wonder if it's even necessary to ground the relay.
Well, one part has to be ground so it will activate the relay. That's why you have the hot injector that's going into the relay, upon activating the relay, into a dead, spot, so no power goes through it.
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Old 01-05-2015, 12:21 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Baltothewolf View Post
Well, one part has to be ground so it will activate the relay. That's why you have the hot injector that's going into the relay, upon activating the relay, into a dead, spot, so no power goes through it.
I was thinking of setting it up like this:




The blue need not be grounded, AFAIK, so long as activating the switch breaks power to the injectors.

Edit: I appreciate you figuring this out. It's an elegant solution.


Last edited by Ecky; 01-05-2015 at 12:52 AM..
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