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Old 12-20-2019, 12:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
Probably a partial grill block for winter since you said the engine is not getting warm enough.
An air dam, how high or how low it goes is up to you.
GM claimed on their 2000s trucks that came with a factory tonneu cover increased fuel economy 6% on the highway.
Ford claimed that on their 2000s trucks that going from a 75mm chin spoiler or air dam to a 100mm air dam chin spoiler increased fuel economy by 1.5%.
When I put a 7 inch air dam on my suburban it was good for at least 1 full mpg no more than 1.5mpg.

Thereare also plug in heaters, block heaters and coolant warmers.
whole front is blocked, cover was over the cooling stack. Going to fab up a 100% front grill block this weekend to prevent the airflow into the engine compartment. I will let the fans handle the cooling.

I have a pace edwards tonneau, rollup canister type that will stay. Love it and not willing to part with it.

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Old 12-20-2019, 01:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Have you tested your thermostat on the stove in a pan of water with a thermometer? If it only gets to 200 when climbing a hill, I think the thermostat is opening too early. Very common for thermostats to not do what is advertised.

I understand about wanting to keep the tonneau, I have a bakflip on my 2001 2500HD. Have you considered building something like the off road sports bar they are putting on Chevys. It could mount on the top of the bed rails, to not interfere with your tonneau. You could style it to look like a superfluous off-road accessory, but use angles and slopes to make it lower your drag coefficient. Make it 12" long on the top with a slight downward slope, and make the sides angle back as they go down to about 24" long where it meets the bed.

My 1994 Diesel Suburban has 4.10s and a swapped 0.643 OD in the NV4500 running on 31.8" 235/85R16s. It is way overgeared even for the NA 6.5, I can lug up a steep hill at 35MPH in overdrive turning less than 1200RPM, much less 55 on the highway. I want to swap to 3.42 in the differentials, which is the lowest factory ratio available.
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Old 12-20-2019, 05:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yes on the t-stat, but not lately. That stat was OK prior to the EWP install. The way the tune is setup now, I can pull 6th @35 mph running ~900 rpms. never a complaint unless the hill is too steep
I have another version of the tune I am about to dump in, further reducing the rail pressure on the bottom end and extending beyond the 1800~2000 rpm cruise range.
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Old 12-21-2019, 12:19 AM   #14 (permalink)
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May need to go up to a 202 or 205 degree F thermostat if you can find one.
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Old 12-23-2019, 09:35 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
May need to go up to a 202 or 205 degree F thermostat if you can find one.
200*f is it... out of the 2010-2012 6.7's
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Old 12-23-2019, 10:43 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I was having problems with my engine not getting up to temperature this year too.

I replaced the 1.0L with water cooled exhaust with a 2.4L motor, and found that when it started getting colder, with the wind blowing through the grille over the front of the engine block it would never warm up enough to open the thermostat, nevermind running heat. I found that putting some plastic in front of the engine block to deflect air away from it helped tremendously, it now warms up to the point the thermostat opens and stabilizes there.

Anyway, this is great. Following with interest.
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Old 12-23-2019, 11:02 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky View Post
I was having problems with my engine not getting up to temperature this year too.

I replaced the 1.0L with water cooled exhaust with a 2.4L motor, and found that when it started getting colder, with the wind blowing through the grille over the front of the engine block it would never warm up enough to open the thermostat, nevermind running heat. I found that putting some plastic in front of the engine block to deflect air away from it helped tremendously, it now warms up to the point the thermostat opens and stabilizes there.

Anyway, this is great. Following with interest.
Interesting... I believe I am having a similar issue. ONe fan is disconnected, half the block is remove from the cooling stack and it finally reaches operating temps 45 mintues into the drive home. Both fans were connected until Saturday. The cooling system is touch... very touchy. If the fan switch is set too low, it'll never make it. Bump it up some and its better but still not like it should be. Need to get better control over the EWP & the fans. When I had the mechanical water pump, it was not an issue.
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Old 12-26-2019, 10:37 AM   #18 (permalink)
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1). Since the changes started for FE = Odometer Miles?

2). Engine Hours (looking for Average MPH over that span of miles as a change in Average MPH can account for all claimed MPG improvement).

3). Fuel cost (CPM; cents-per-mile; adjusted to a constant dollar figure per gallon).

Against:

A). Net income used to purchase supplies, gear, equipment for FE changes.

B). CPM adjusted accordingly (for, as a “fuel cost”, vehicle expense has increased)

It’s one thing to talk of improvements, but it’s only after their advantage has recouped cost that savings begin. (This would include those things removed)

Net income, is the thing. 12% reduction has meaning. In a 20,000-mile year at $3/gl it’s almost $500 in fuel (160-gals).


The real questions are:

I). What’s the CPM trend, in other words? Conjecture is that it hasn’t improved at all in spending-to-save (miles held constant).

II). Have e-fans (all changes) been put to the test? Towing greatest trailer frontal area and/or weight? Max axle loads with or without trailer? Otherwise need to add a note that truck has been de-rated to half-ton status regarding ability to do work.

Optimization of “empty” isn’t an FE goal for a pickup truck.

And I suggest you put the truck on a CAT Scale. My ‘04 2WD weighed more than 6800# when new. (CAT SCALE app. As the heaviest tire load per axle is the single accurate method of setting cold tire pressure it’s a necessary tool).

.

Last edited by slowmover; 12-26-2019 at 11:29 AM..
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Old 12-26-2019, 10:51 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve05ram360 View Post
The only ones I'd consider would be the bed seals, bumper insert (had those previously) and then some underneath. It has a sliding tonneau cover & tailgate spoiler (off the 1500's).

I know about going all out on the belly pan & whatnot but thats not practical for the use cases...

What would your suggestions be? Considering a piece attached to the trans cross member to divert air down below the axle. needs testing for sure.
Why is a bellypan not useful where 4WD skidplates are much the same albeit more specific? I see there are CAD aluminum ones for latest Jeeps.

The area from rocker panel edge inward to frame (truck-length) does most of the job. Combine with skids and a minor flexible dam or two.

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Old 12-26-2019, 11:05 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I recall that you’ve upgraded steering (now have ZERO play?), then it’s control over body motion that is the next step in reducing degree & duration of steering input. The minimum acceptable test is 3-seconds at 65-mph. On the count of three, are you on road or in ditch (crosswind tells truth)?

Optimize steering by:

1). HENDERSONS LINE-UP, for rear axle Panhard Rod (track bar).

2). ADDCO, for smallest rear anti-roll bar, plus up-sizing front bar smallest step (both required).

3). BILSTEIN 5100 a typical upgrade to stock shock absorbers, but better can be had. Controlling spring action vital to smooth (near-linear) steering response.

No bed wag, no body roll = less effort at all times, plus cleaner transitions per any application of what matters:

A). Steering
B). Brakes
C). Throttle

You’ve been focused on the least important of these attributes.

What can the truck do if we eliminate driver-introduced problems? A 2-300 mile loop with a 17-year old girl at wheel back to same pump otherwise on cruise control at 55 to 58-mph with ZERO acceleration, braking or lane-changing EXCEPT as law requires.

In other words, where is the baseline? (Which is lane-centered, steady-state. Cruise-control, no changes from this at all).

How many course corrections in 100-miles?
I’d bet it’s still SIGNIFICANTLY more than with the rack & pinion on mine.
Which would tell me there is still work to do.

But the test is needed. How one chooses to drive otherwise doesn’t matter. So long as the truck — left alone — is “better”. . . is what’s at stake.

Ever owned a rifle better than you? Same principle.

What can it do without hitting the 60-mph aero wall?
Any driver.
Simple rules

.


Last edited by slowmover; 12-26-2019 at 11:18 AM..
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