It's time again for a traditional tune-up -- as we know, this is vital to keeping the engine running at its most efficient.
Air Filter
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
Seafoam Treatment (or similar solvent)
Oil / Filter Change
I could have waited until warmer weather, but the valve cover gasket/seals are oozing and stinking up the place, so I have some time and here we are
Problem: Auto parts store gave me the wrong valve cover sealing set -- of course I had everything apart before I realized this. Solution: I'm fairly new to wrenching, but common sense tells me that I should have checked the part at the store first! (if you can). Now I'm waiting around for my Wife and the other car to return and head out again to get the right part.
The SeaFoam (AutoRx or similar) was added directly to the oil galleys with the valve cover off, and into nooks and crannies that appear to get gunked-up readily. After everything is sealed up, a quick drive around the block should cycle the solvent and oil through the bottom end and back through the valvetrain. Then the traditional oil/filter change will occur.
Question: An analysis of the spark plugs show them to be in good shape. I assume it's normal to have a slight layer of a white, powdery coating on the electrode? No damage or oil buildup is noted.
With this info, the ultimate question is what "Temperature Range" do I choose when purchasing plugs?
The engine is running hotter than stock, with a 190-deg F thermostat, grille block, and warm-air intake. I haven't had any detonation/pinging problems.
Any ideas?
RH77
__________________ “If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein
Whiteness generally means leanness. I had this on my plugs and 02 sensor from running lean for a while (due to a vacuum leak, I'm guessing). Could be caused by the 190 t stat...
I generally get the stock plugs either way, I don't fancy it too important since I'm not revving high, but that's a bit half-butted of me,
Whiteness generally means leanness. I had this on my plugs and 02 sensor from running lean for a while (due to a vacuum leak, I'm guessing). Could be caused by the 190 t stat...
I generally get the stock plugs either way, I don't fancy it too important since I'm not revving high, but that's a bit half-butted of me,
From what I looked-up, the heat seems to be the culprit here. Burning oil is also a possibility, but not entirely likely since it doesn't loose much between changes.
For what it's worth, I guess "Heat Ranges" aren't really considered on modern, fuel-injected vehicles -- the difference is the gap.
I went with a wider gap this time. Call me "half-butted" as well , but I don't rev higher than 3-grand, and rarely (if ever), recall detonation issues. The rationale is that more spark area is available for increased combustion. It runs smoothly -- I guess the drawback of a wide gap is a possible misfire. We'll see.
But alas, the cover and gasket is back on and new plugs/wires are installed. No more stinky oil leaks.
Side effect: odd transmission behavior -- it's hesitant to shift to 3rd when I lift the throttle at the usual spot (2300 RPM). It's probably the TCM adjusting to different loads(?) 4th to TC lockup is fine tho.
Should I reset the ECU? I know it's recommended, but I worry about that darn hill-logic transmission control unit. The fuzzy logic seems to learn my driving style and I don't want to lose that. It could be a good thing to start fresh?
(oh, and I plan to replace the K&N cone with a standard OEM paper cone filter). More on that laters...
RH77
__________________ “If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein
wait.. why are you wanting to replace a reusable filter with one that fills up landfills and needs to be bought over and over.. and over...
From digging around on BITOG - I consistently found that people with reusable filters that do oil analysis had more silica in their oil (more than any anti foam package). I rank filtration effectiveness above performance, FE and only slightly above cost
Then, autospeed has an article (somewhere) where they flow tested filters... The incredibly dirty filter didn't have any difference in flow compared to the new one
I personally don't change my filter until it falls apart - when I do replace them. I pull the rubber off and recycle both bits
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Cars have not created a new problem. They merely made more urgent the necessity to solve existing ones.
Wait, which filter are we talking about here? I'm confused with this silica stuff. please continue.
I looked at K&N drop in replacement and one other drop in replacement (the name escapes me at the moment). Silica (basically sand) content was much higher according to oil analysis owners had done on their old engine oil.
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Cars have not created a new problem. They merely made more urgent the necessity to solve existing ones.
I have knowledge tho of filtration charts against regular paper filters, and against flow/filtration against brands like AEM, Airaid, Amsoil, K&N and S&B.
Dust capacity is how much it can collect before it chokes. K&N had the highest dust capacity at 167g, followed by Airaid 126g, S&B 96.8g, AEM 73.6 and Amsoil caught the least at 39g.
As far as efficiency, AEM ranked top with 99.41%, Airaid 98.43%, Amsoil 98.29%, S&B 98.05% and last was K&N with 96.13%.
As far as I know a paper filter isn't as good at trapping dirt than an oiled cotton gauze filer, unless they let the filter go dirty. paper has large gaps and isn't very air frendly compared to cotton. unless cotton somehow turns to silica or the oils used contain silica.
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Yea.. I drive a Jeep and I'm on a fuel economy site, but you just wouldn't understand... "It's a Jeep thing!" *Jeep Wave*
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, but I don't rev higher than 3-grand, and rarely (if ever), recall detonation issues. The rationale is that more spark area is available for increased combustion. It runs smoothly -- I guess the drawback of a wide gap is a possible misfire. We'll see.
