Let me jump in here -- the previous Hot Air Intake and now warm air intake has forced all the air into one area of the filter, and it has deteriorated the foam and part of the mesh in one circular area. It has to go... Probably voided the warranty with 180-degree air
RH77
__________________ “If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein
I worry about that darn hill-logic transmission control unit. The fuzzy logic seems to learn my driving style and I don't want to lose that. It could be a good thing to start fresh?
If that's the case, I'd be reluctant. Won't it also adjust to the different plugs, if they're affecting the O2 sensor or knock sensor?
Let me jump in here -- the previous Hot Air Intake and now warm air intake has forced all the air into one area of the filter, and it has deteriorated the foam and part of the mesh in one circular area. It has to go... Probably voided the warranty with 180-degree air
RH77
And how are they to know that? So you toasted the K&N? so much for the moneys worth...
__________________
Yea.. I drive a Jeep and I'm on a fuel economy site, but you just wouldn't understand... "It's a Jeep thing!" *Jeep Wave*
If that's the case, I'd be reluctant. Won't it also adjust to the different plugs, if they're affecting the O2 sensor or knock sensor?
Other than the increased efficiency of the ignition system, no sensor that I can think of needs to be "reset" with the ECU power-pull. I'll forge on with the current setup and see what develops.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DifferentPointofView
And how are they to know that? So you toasted the K&N? so much for the moneys worth...
70K Miles isn't too bad for the money's worth. I've re-oiled it about 3 times and it's just becoming a pain. The oil tends to travel up the 'clean' intake tube, and I fear that the MAF sensor will become gunked-up with it.
I understand the concern for paper recycling and the re-use of the K&N, but it has been 70-thousand miles, and I'd rather go with a more reliable paper-style filter with my application. I feel that this particular part has been rehabilitated beyond its usable life expectancy. A new one, in my opinion, is neither Scientifically justified or environmentally friendly (it takes more energy to produce a metallic mesh and metal end-cap than paper and rubber/plastic ends).
The "performance" feature is 'industry' tested at near-maximum RPM at peak torque and horsepower. These figures do not represent my operation at <3000 RPM. I'm willing to give paper another chance for economic and efficient applications. If FE decreases, then we know it was due to the filter. I think I can let it go for quite a while and recycle the necessary parts (and consequently use less energy through the manufacturing processes of the filter style).
Turning the filter in for warranty purposes is moot. The "Million Mile Warranty" is a selling tactic. I could try it, but I would get the same product and same effort to keep it updated (oil, etc). I'm finished with it. Besides, testing with a restricted intake yielded less pumping losses, reduced power, and consequently less fuel consumed overall. I've used the K&N system for at least 7-10 years, and it's time to try something different for testing-sake.
Just monitor the FE results after the new filter is replaced, and we'll determine the eco-friendliness.
RH77
__________________ “If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein
The gap was increased from the recommended range, but with single-digit temps this week, no problems. I can't determine an FE difference with the Arctic temps, but the hesitation has resolved and it fires right up after EOC.
When warmer weather returns, is this going to be a concern...what's the take?
RH77
__________________ “If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein
how often did they actually clean and reoil the filters? or did they reoil them at all?
Not sure - all my links seem to have gone dead (went to BITOG forums)... I'm more inclined to say that if they had the will to do oil analysis, they're more likely to keep up on that sort of maintenance... I have a bunch of dead links to show for all my work researching two years ago
BITOG has this exact test (mind you, real world - not lab).... Results were as I investigated implicitly from other people's oil analysis sheets. I just came across it trying to revive my old links
+Cotton Gauze and Foam filter about the same
+Paper filters better than Cotton Gauze and Foam
+Cotton Gauze and Foam flow better than paper... But the worst pressure drop (paper) had a pressure reduction of .07psi
Well it turns out that the tune-up actually resulted in a big jump in FE. The Winter baseline was 30-31 mpg, with the tune-up tank coming in at 34.4 mpg.
That's about a 10% increase in FE.
Subsequent tanks are required to get a final tally, here are a few hypotheses...
The plugs and wires were in sad shape.
The plug gap was increased over spec
Seafoam was dumped directly over the valvetrain and run through the system for 3 miles, and then...
The oil/filter was changed
I never got around to changing the air filter. Soon though...
Strangely, ambient temps were in the +5F to 25F range, with some slushy, Winter weather present. I even carried passengers. Most driving was highway. We'll see what happens with subsequent tanks -- it's warmed up out to around 30-60F, so we'll see.
As it stands now, the tune-up seemed to help FE.
Happy Hypermiling...
RH77
__________________ “If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein
10% is a nice surprise. Congrats on the improvement.
Thanks! I hope it's legit and not pump error -- or, as SVO mentions, oil consumption...
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
Nothing like a few extra mpg,
Just make sure you're not burning any oil not that those carbon deposites are all blasted away,
I'll keep an eye on the oil level. This tank (based on the 1/2-way mark on the inaccurate fuel gauge) has appeared less efficient. Driving conditions are nearly similar, but with a slightly more City Operation.
The EBH has made a HUGE difference in getting started. TC lockup occurs by the time I hit the 45 MPH parkway (5-10 minutes). Otherwise, it's 15+ minutes. EOC-ing, as always, freaks out the TCU -- shifting becomes erratic and unpredictable.
There's nothing like lugging an automatic Tightening the transmission-throttle cable has resulted in early TC lockup at 35-38 MPH. It tends to hang on with a light touch on the throttle. Too much input either results in timing changes for power, or TC unlock. Yup, the auto is a challenge -- but not impossible to work with.
Looking at the top-end internals and timing belt, I think the 'Teg has a lot of life left. Between 30 and 40 mpg seems to be a good compromise vs. a new(er) ride. Certainly better than the mid-20's it achieved before EcoMods.
As always, the biggest change is with an adjustment to a part associated with every vehicle on the road. There's a adjustment that can be modified without any tools. The nut behind the wheel. That has made the biggest difference
RH77
__________________ “If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein
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So you toasted the K&N? so much for the moneys worth...
Tightening the transmission-throttle cable has resulted in early TC lockup at 35-38 MPH. It tends to hang on with a light touch on the throttle. Too much input either results in timing changes for power, or TC unlock. Yup, the auto is a challenge -- but not impossible to work with. 
