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Old 06-02-2008, 01:46 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Fuel log?

Comon' you know you want to.

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Old 06-02-2008, 03:31 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattW View Post
I would make one small change (see attachment) and 11 degree upsweep on the bottom of the tail will further decrease your wake size, produce a little down force and allow you to enter steeper driveways etc... Its a win-win change
Yeah the lower angle keep the drag lower, the higher angle creates a "suction force" back there.. don't want suction...
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Old 06-02-2008, 03:32 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Fuel log?

Comon' you know you want to.
Yeah ill be doing one, but need to get this tank done first..
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Old 06-02-2008, 03:37 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ttoyoda View Post
ebacherville, it looks great. Do you have a picture of the front with the new air holes? also, when you open the hood, does the foam stay on the fenders or does it go up with the hood?
If you want to trim the foam a cheap serrated ginzu style knife works well. Then fill in the open pores with some sort of filler (I don't know if bondo dissolves this kind of foam)
Yep stole a bread knife from the kitchen for foam cuting it works really well.. just let you foam cure fully for over a day.. the foam sometimes has gewy spots in thick spots .. then you have to fefill it with foam over again..

Usually i foam the structure , cut it down then sand it down then refill any large foam pours with more foam.. then sand again and them cover with a very thin coat of bondo to smooth it out. Bondo doesn't dissolve it.. either does fiberglass resin, unless its got to little hardener in it, you need it to set up fast 10 minutes or so, or it will melt the foam if the resin takes longer than 15 minutes to harden.. its kind of odd but works well.. makes it strong too.

The hood is spperate from the fenders.. just like stock for the most part.. t

Yeah ill get some photos of the hole in the front of the nose too forgot to take that picture..
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Old 06-02-2008, 04:41 PM   #95 (permalink)
igo
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The nose looks great, like the gt40 picture someone posted. Keep up with the good work. I look forward to seeing the progress.
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Old 06-02-2008, 06:20 PM   #96 (permalink)
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ebacherville,
when the shape of the whole car is perfected/finished, there is a window of opportunity to decide to redo all the new panels in metal. That is an excuse to get this:
http://ww2.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95359
Not as fancy as this:
http://www.metalcrafttools.com/englishwheel.html
But much cheaper (was 199 on sale in springfield MA store)
It works like this
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Old 06-02-2008, 06:25 PM   #97 (permalink)
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english wheel

lots of experience with those and copper

I wouldn't go with metal, you need to add lightness
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Old 06-02-2008, 07:38 PM   #98 (permalink)
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lots of experience with those and copper

What do you make out of copper? Do you ever need to heat treat to anneal part way thru the job?

I would think that with all the compound curves in the front a very thin aluminium sheet would be strong enough.
from this chart:
http://www.auto-ware.com/techref/sheetweight.htm
Al .0508 inch thick weighs .716 lbs per square foot
Guesstimate 15 square foot area for nose???
= 10.74 lbs.
Which admittedly assumes there is no need for inner bracing.
Plus you could do a brushed finish on it and clear coat it.
That would look sharp.
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Old 06-02-2008, 07:57 PM   #99 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebacherville View Post
still cant belive how tightthis motor sounds for 129,000 miles, sound smoother than many new cars.. This is my first Honda.. Im so impressed that they can make a car get 50MPG thats carbed and 20 years ago.. and 20 years later and 129,000 miles later the motor can sound that good.. WOW!!
Its a Honda thing!
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Old 06-02-2008, 08:15 PM   #100 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebacherville View Post
Yeah the lower angle keep the drag lower, the higher angle creates a "suction force" back there.. don't want suction...
No actually up to the 11 degrees you are lowering drag and lift, after that you will start to increase downforce at the expense of drag. But the 11 degree angle should actually reduce your drag as much as possible (optimised) with the side-effect of reducing lift as well. There will be slightly less pressure under the car but more pressure behind it with that angle so you get the best of both worlds! Going with a flat angle will probably hurt FE compared to the sloped one... Take a look at bajoos, aeroplanes, fish, birds, teardrops, they all angle in on the top and bottom.

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