Fast warm up ideas: Double engine block heaters

[oil pan 4]

There is no coolant down in the rod and main bearings where most of the oil leaks through and goes into the sump. The 75lb crank shaft in my engine and loe lower part with the mains webbing and main caps would have to be warmed by its own friction or heat absorbed from the oil.
I already did some calculations to heat the oil in around 20 minutes from 0°F to 100°F there is no need to leave it plugged in all night.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by Xist

You use a block heater in Texas?

Engine runs at about 187F. Oil is above 200F.

A block heater isn't about being able to start so much as it is about reducing wear at startup. The shorter the time to op temp, the better. Same with synthetic oil changed at factory interval. If the goal is longest life as well as reduced fuel burn, then year round use pays for itself.

On a 45F day a little rice burner is almost warned by the end of the block. Without a load on it (and without a grill block or below 40F) a pickup diesel may not ever warm up on a day of errand running.

What wastes fuel on a per mile basis is a double penalty on a medium duty diesel. It isn't at all optimal for solo passenger errand running. Without a 10k trailer on the back, it's outside design parameters.

[stovie]

I've been wanting to try using a insulating coating called nansulate as a insulation for my engine. It's supposed to create a r-13 insulating coating on the engine to hold in the heat. I'd like to coat the intake first and go back to the engine to try to keep track of its temperature to avoid overheating.

If you can keep the engine temperature down by controlling the intake temperature I believe it could go towards improving the engines overall efficiency.

Here's the product I'm looking at Heat Shield EPX4 Insulation Coating | Industrial Nanotech Inc.

I'm also wanting to see about putting a water cooler setup in line of the EGR to cool the gases and also see if I can use it to "inject" around 7 gallons of water into the engine in place of water injection system!!

[NHB]

Originally Posted by stovie

I've been wanting to try using a insulating coating called nansulate as a insulation for my engine. It's supposed to create a r-13 insulating coating on the engine to hold in the heat. I'd like to coat the intake first and go back to the engine to try to keep track of its temperature to avoid overheating.

If you can keep the engine temperature down by controlling the intake temperature I believe it could go towards improving the engines overall efficiency.

I don't get the idea. Why would you like to insulate the intake?

[stovie]

Originally Posted by NHB

I don't get the idea. Why would you like to insulate the intake?

From what I've seen the intake on many cars are around 80 degrees difference between the iat and the ambient air which causes higher combustion temperatures, when I start coating the engine it will be summer so I need to avoid overheating!! And from what I understand a r-13 insulation value takes about 13 hours for the inside temperature to work its way out, so you could put a block heater in and have it maintain temp better!!

[oil pan 4]

If the vehicle has a cold air intake the air intake temperature is usually with in 1 or 2 degrees of out side the vehicle. If some ones car is running intake air 80 above the out side temperature it's by design, or a warm air intake.
Higher combustion temperature gives better efficiency.

[stovie]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

If the vehicle has a cold air intake the air intake temperature is usually with in 1 or 2 degrees of out side the vehicle. If some ones car is running intake air 80 above the out side temperature it's by design, or a warm air intake.
Higher combustion temperature gives better efficiency.

Using a infrared digital thermometer the intake on my jeep sits around 197 degrees f, and I'm sure that transfers to the in going air quite a bit! Looking into it it seems that the colder the air intake is the more thermally efficient the vehicle is. A lot of the people I see getting the best fe live in places that are regularly in the teens to below zero, but they can't maintain engine temperature so they have to use a intake heater!! After dropping the intake to as low a temperature as possible you'll need to insulate the engine to retain as much heat as possible because it takes longer to heat up, dropping efficiency!!

[ThermionicScott]

Volumetric efficiency and fuel efficiency ain't the same thing.

[oil pan 4]

Unfortunately gas engines don't get the best efficiency with cold air.
On paper it might look like cold air is more efficient in a gasoline engine. It is if you want to make more power cold air is better. If you want efficiency warmer air is better.

There have been a member or 2 on here that tested warn up times with a cold air intake versus warmed air intske and it cut warm up times by a 2 or 3 minutes.

[stovie]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

Unfortunately gas engines don't get the best efficiency with cold air.
On paper it might look like cold air is more efficient in a gasoline engine. It is if you want to make more power cold air is better. If you want efficiency warmer air is better.

There have been a member or 2 on here that tested warn up times with a cold air intake versus warmed air intske and it cut warm up times by a 2 or 3 minutes.

I understand the concept and have also seen others success with warm air intake, but I never liked the power drop so I put a cold air on my s10.(I got it off eBay for $35👍&#128077 After I did I got a 3mpg improvement and no longer have to downshift when going up steep hills in my area, so I guess it depends on your situation and location?!? I'd also like to see about getting a torqued cam and jumping the compression ratio to around 14.5-1 at which point I'd run e100 only!!(I've seen many people get to around 14.5 compression ratio and get as much as 25% improvement on ethanol! Though that's generally all you can use at that compression ratio!!)