Full boat tail on a Matrix

[Weather Spotter]

good idea, how to remove?

[JasonG]

Detergent will remove it.
I wasnt reccomending it, just saying where you can get it.

Did you fiberglass the edge of the foam where it hits the car?
After doing so put a piece of weatherstripping between the car and the fiberglass.

[Weather Spotter]

I will have to look to see how far up I fiberglassed. I was asking how to remove the squeak. I have worked at the #1 silicone MFG so I know how to remove silicone

[3-Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Weather Spotter

....any tips on reducing Styrofoam squeak?....

Hi Weather,

As for styrofoam squeaks, you probably have some foam too close to the bodywork in a spot OR the mounting system is flexing enough to allow contact.

There were several pictures posted where I carefully trimmed foam material from the entire gap around the tail of the car, to mostly prevent contact on the foam from rubbing paint off the car body. This technique might help alleviate the squeak.

So far the bodywork on the Insight is as quiet a mouse, except for the latching pins on the small hatch. I can hear those rattle a little on a particularly bumpy road. The gap between the aluminum pins and brass sleeves is about .010 inch, and from time to time causes a very subtle noise.

I have not heard any squeaks, rattles, or any other noises from the tail piece, even on some bone-jarring bumps that those old country roads produce in the winter.

Jim.

[Weather Spotter]

Good for you, mine is not build as nicely as yours is Jim

I think I will look for contact points (I still want no gaps, himm weather striping time) tomorrow and see if I can fix the issue.

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by Weather Spotter

I might make the end panels per the suggestions, how long? Can I make it come to a point?

If you make the 4 panels come to a point you'll have a full boat-tail, that would be the most efficient - though you should already get most of the potential gains with your current tail.

Did you calculate the wake area reduction ?

I was thinking about 2 or 3 inch long plates, continuing the line of the boat-tail - they're only there to help the air separate cleanly.

On the bottom I'd add a somewhat longer (10" ?) horizontal plate - like a stern plate.

[endurance]

If the squeaks are coming from joints in the foam, be aware that there is a specific liquid nails product just for gluing foam and using it might eliminate the squeaks while making it more solid, too.

[Weather Spotter]

Yes the foam is squeaking. It seems to be coming from the areas where the car and tail touch. I added some noise reduction foam I had to the inside and it helped. I might try the liquid nails thing too.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by Weather Spotter

aerohead, nice summery and comments.

I might make the end panels per the suggestions, how long? Can I make it come to a point?

I might do some tuft testing when it warms up. Most modding has come to a frozen stop

As for the sides, I need to do some work on the transition from car to tail. Right now I have it changes angles twice, at the car and at the top end of the window. The angles might need a bit of work but that is fill in and finish stuff, on hold till temps are 45-50F (mid march).

You are right in that I decided for the squared off shape due to the labor needed. To be totally honest I only sketched it out, most of the design came during building phase.

I may do a mid section belly pan, But I need more material I am out of any good sized colorplast or sheet metal. It is also easier to get under the car without winter gear on.

If I do 3 season mods they will only be on for 6-7 months a year

any tips on reducing Styrofoam squeak?

I think the panels could be as short as the depth of the original bumper offset,maybe only 100-125mm or so,and no taper at all.They're just going to get the flow going straight back and when separation occurs,the mass/inertia of the entrained snow/water makes it more difficult for it to rotate back with the air and stick.Some cardboard and duct tape could 'prove' it or not.
On my T-100 boat-tail I've got a simple cedar wood shelf sticking out which helps spoil this flow,as well as protect the protruding license plate lamps/tail lamps,and reflectors.Mercedes used to build these shelves into their tailight covers,to help turbulate this flow and prevent 'settling.'
My shop has been 34-degrees F lately,I too await warmer work conditions.
As to the squeak,when I did the boat-tail on the CRX,it was a fiberglass shell which slipped onto the back of the car like a glove.To help protect the finish,I would tape felt at the attach points of the body,and when the tail slipped on,it would capture the felt at the interface and there was never any squeaking.I don't know if something like that might help or not.
You might be able to attach a thin plastic or sheetmetal 'starter' to felt and wedge it into a temporarily loosened area,pull the fabric in,cut off the starter,and re-secure the fasteners.
How about Velcro-fastened wheel fairings which can be yanked and replaced as weather dictates?

[3-Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Weather Spotter

....Good for you, mine is not build as nicely as yours is Jim ...

Hi Weather,

Sorry, but I didn't write that to make you feel bad, but rather for the following...

I've had people come up and say, "Hey, what did you make your tail out of?"

When I respond back, "With foam and fiberglass", they say, "What???"

They are taken back by the foam material, and think that it can't possibly work.

I just wanted to point out to anyone reading this thread, that yes, foam does indeed work.

Jim.