Getting in from Bonneville trip

[BamZipPow]

I'm headed up to Dallas on Saturday and it won't be much trouble fer me to stop on by and see what my T-100 skill sets might do to solve yer problems. Give me a call.

I'll make it a point to load up all my tools and FSMs.

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by aerohead

When you consider that GM's streamlined 1993 EV-1 was 6-mph faster than a 450-bhp Dodge Viper coupe of 1996 you begin to appreciate what aero will do for velocity.

Great comparison.

So it's 137 hp verses 450 hp?


General Motors EV1 1996

The propulsion system of the EV1 is based on a three phase alternating current induction motor integrated into a drive unit that contains a two stage gear reduction and differential. The propulsion power is 102 kW (137 hp) and torque measured at the motor is 150 Nm (110 lb-ft)@ 0 to 7.000 rpm

General Motors EV1 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Electric motor 3-phase AC induction
electric motor with
IGBT power inverter
137 bhp (102 kW) at 7000 rpm
110 lb·ft (149 N·m) at 0–7000 rpm

[user removed]

Originally Posted by aerohead

Drove up to look at the T-100 yesterday.The mechanic has spark.He has doubts about the fuel pump.
I went up this morning and removed the last of the belly pan to allow him access to the fuel tank.
He'll bypass the relay and put voltage directly to the unit 'n see if she'll spit out a stream of fuel.And then go from there.
So maybe I'm not looking at an ECM,which is pricey to say the least.
The CRX is kinda getting me around.I had spent 10-hours on the 4th of July working on the carburetor.I finally arrived at a needle-and-seat/float/upper-lower O-ring combo which would allow me to set the float level finally.
Front brake dragging has been a recent issue.Dis-assembly,cleaning,hand burnishing,lubrication and re-assembly has resolved that with the calipers.
I ordered kits today so as to get fresh dust seals for the pucks which will be eaten in no time on our unimproved community dirt roads.
All the travel budget is gone just making ends meet as I awaited transportation to get me back to work.
I'll shoot for North Carolina in the spring.It will give me all winter to do the composite work I'd hoped to have behind me by now.

To determine if fuel pressure is your problem, install a t fitting and a pressure gauge.
To determine if ignition is your problem, wrap a piece of wire (insulated) around a plug wire, then run it to your antenna (regardless of configuration). Turn the radio to AM and you will get severe static in the radio. When the ignition dies the static will decrease greatly or stop altogether.

regards
Mech

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by BamZipPow

I'm headed up to Dallas on Saturday and it won't be much trouble fer me to stop on by and see what my T-100 skill sets might do to solve yer problems. Give me a call.

I'll make it a point to load up all my tools and FSMs.

Thanks Bam!
I'll need to spend some time with Marvin 'n see where he's at just out of respect.If he's overwhelmed and dysfunctioning (my new world!) I'll offer to have the truck towed out of there and settle up with him.
I've got to tear the front brakes down on the CRX and rebuild the calipers,so the weekend is already spoken for.
I really appreciate the thought.Big time!!!!!! Thanks.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by kach22i

Great comparison.

So it's 137 hp verses 450 hp?


General Motors EV1 1996


General Motors EV1 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For the final assault on the speed record,the EV-1 crew installed an extra "six-pack" battery pack where the passenger seat would have been, to increase the supply voltage to the inverter.
So we'd have to massage the motor horsepower upwards to reflect the higher voltage.
Still,it must be quite embarrassing to performance (oxymoron) car owners to see a n-t-shriveling EV out-speed some big iron.

[user removed]

One other thing on your trucks mech problems. Typically when an ignition module goes bad, the tachometer (if you have one) goes crazy, bouncing from 0 to high indicated RPMs when the module is giving out.

regards
Mech

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by Old Mechanic

To determine if fuel pressure is your problem, install a t fitting and a pressure gauge.
To determine if ignition is your problem, wrap a piece of wire (insulated) around a plug wire, then run it to your antenna (regardless of configuration). Turn the radio to AM and you will get severe static in the radio. When the ignition dies the static will decrease greatly or stop altogether.

regards
Mech

Thanks Mech!
When I saw Marvin(the mechanic) last,he achieved spark and was intending to bypass any relays and hot-wire the pump and do exactly as you suggested.
He was sitting on the shop floor with the tank out of a Mercury Cougar undergoing the same process and had just discovered that the new O'Reilly' electric pump was FUBAR and he'd have to go to Ford for a real OEM part.
A Volvo wagon was also entertaining him with some fuel system wiring loom antics.
It's been awfully hot and I need to check just to see if he's okay health-wise.
I got heat-drunk the other day working on a roof and had to quit at 3:00 PM.
The two of us are the same age.No spring chickens.

[user removed]

I had the fuel pump die in my 76 280Z in the middle of an intersection with dual left turn lanes and 3 traffic lanes each way. I pushed it into a gas station parking lot and whacked the pump with something hard and it made it back to the shop. Fortunately it was an external pump.

Ignition modules (igniters) tend to fail when temps start rising in spring and summer. If you can confirm it is the module, consider the option of a whole rebuilt distrubutor, which comes with a module and in some cases is not much difference in price from just the module alone.

I know it would cost a lot more, but always check to see if anything price comparable is available from Toyota, or even used if cost is critical. Maybe a pick and pull salvage yard.

I am so glad I don't work on cars anymore, the reliability of aftermarket parts is so horrific, I would just try to find used stuff, or bite the bullet and go OEM as long as you are absolutely sure you have pinpointed the bad part. I had my blower motor resistor give out (replacement) after less than 8 months, always go for lifetime warranty if you buy aftermarket.

My back is pretty much shot, roofing would probably kill me anymore. 62 years of which 35 + were hard physical labor. I have my sleepmember mattress and a Teeter hang up to keep me going. My Doc will prescribe meds if I wanted, but I hate being a Zombie and have really wierd dreams when I take that stuff.

regards
Mech

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by Old Mechanic

One other thing on your trucks mech problems. Typically when an ignition module goes bad, the tachometer (if you have one) goes crazy, bouncing from 0 to high indicated RPMs when the module is giving out.

regards
Mech

I'm recording all you trouble-shooting tips to keep in the vehicle.
My second to last breakdown occurred 1,550 miles from home.Charging system.Elko,Nevada on a Friday night,stores all closed and wouldn't know about parts until Monday.
At $100 a day to cool my heals at a motel,I ended up at a 24-hr Wort Mall,got a extra battery and charger,and made it home with constant-loss ignition running only at daylight on opportunity-charging motel-room electricity.
When I go to N.Carolina I'll be just as vulnerable,so the more trouble-shooting knowledge the better.Spare parts are good to have on hand.

[aerohead]

Originally Posted by Old Mechanic

I had the fuel pum die in my 76 280Z in the middle of an intersection with dual left turn lanes and 3 traffic lanes each way. I pushed it into a gas station parking lot an whacked the pump with something hard and it made it back to the shop. Fortunately it was an external pump.

Ignition modules (igniters) tend to fail when temps start rising in spring and summer. If you can confirm it is the module, consider the option of a whole rebuilt distrubutor, which comes with a module and in some cases is not much difference in price from just the module alone.

I know it would cost a lot more, but always check to see if anything price comparable is available from Toyota, or even used if cost is critical. Maybe a pick and pull salvage yard.

regards
Mech

Absolutely! Expensive at the parts counter,but when they'll run a quarter-million miles they look pretty economical.
I used Beck-Arnley in California with good success.And in Texas,Car Quest seems to have the closest thing to OEM if the dealer will no longer support the vehicle.As I've run into this with the CRX.
PS sorry you ended up with the same kind of back as I have.I adapt and modify as best I can to get through,but look forward to the time when I can clock out on some of these activities.Met with surgeon this morning at VA Hospital and they'll do the hernia repair September 21 unless an emergency bumps me.That will help.