Help me kill my fickle woman...

[3-Wheeler]

Originally Posted by HilseeJ

.....The mechanic said that it was quite possibly caused by be doing EOC. I have seen explanations on kill switches this forum that would lead me to believe he was right. I have read that using the key to engine off coast can keep spraying fuel into the engine.......

I'm not sure I believe the mechanics statement.

I used to perform regular key-off-coasting with my Cavalier, and had no problems at with this method.

The Insight now has a FAS board installed, which removes power to the injectors, effectively stopping the motor, and I still have no issues using this method.

I sometimes get a hesitation in acceleration when again turning the motor back on, but it is a brief pause, probably due to the fuel circuit pressurizing again.

And one can not "see" fuel vapor on a ceramic plug tip, since the fuel quickly evaporates with such a small film thickness. You may however see the carbon residue however, but this would be after running the engine and then depositing enough carbon to actually "view" it. Engine turners used to use this technique for setting carburetor jetting 30 years ago.

Jim.

[HilseeJ]

Originally Posted by 3-Wheeler

I'm not sure I believe the mechanics statement.

It's hard to tell, really. My CEL would blink when I was EOC'ing and I've had to replace 2 parts that would be associated with damage related to EOC'ing via key-off.

The spark plugs that were fouled undoubtedly had an incredibly low amount of mileage on them and I have heard theories on this forum about keying off resulting in fuel being sprayed into the engine. (These were dismissed by naysayers, but it appears to be true in my case...)

Originally Posted by 3-Wheeler

I used to perform regular key-off-coasting with my Cavalier, and had no problems at with this method.

It was the same with my older cars. I lost power steering, but didn't care. For some reason this car just doesn't like me.

Originally Posted by 3-Wheeler

The Insight now has a FAS board installed, which removes power to the injectors, effectively stopping the motor, and I still have no issues using this method.

So, is this when you key-off? Or...? I'm not sure what a FAS board is called and I'm not that technically sound

Originally Posted by 3-Wheeler

I sometimes get a hesitation in acceleration when again turning the motor back on, but it is a brief pause, probably due to the fuel circuit pressurizing again.

Hmmm. This hesitation was an incredible amount of jerking and wasn't JUST after turning the motor back on.

Originally Posted by 3-Wheeler

And one can not "see" fuel vapor on a ceramic plug tip, since the fuel quickly evaporates with such a small film thickness. You may however see the carbon residue however, but this would be after running the engine and then depositing enough carbon to actually "view" it.

I feel like it's hard to tell. I guess it could have been carbon but I dunno. I feel like he would have been able to tell the difference between the two? Maybe I'm putting too much trust in my mechanic.

-

Not attempting to be harsh, but I've taken WAY too much information on this forum as truth, only to find out it's not true.

[HilseeJ]

Originally Posted by Weather Spotter

now you have to find it on the car

Found the ECU. It's behind the glove box for any other honda fit owners.

Will post full details when project is completed.

[Weather Spotter]

Feel free is ask questions.

[HilseeJ]

Okay. First question.

When you built your switch, you put the cut just past the junction.

Do I need to do that as well?

[Weather Spotter]

I just left myself enough room to re splice it I'd I needed to. It's up to you where you cut it.

[3-Wheeler]

Originally Posted by HilseeJ

...Not attempting to be harsh, but I've taken WAY too much information on this forum as truth, only to find out it's not true.

Thanks for the reply.

Remind me not to answer any more of your posts!

Jim.

[ksa8907]

Just curious, but are iridium plugs suggested for that engine? I would bet no, and what is probably your issue. Iridium plugs are great for turbo'd engines as they resist the heat better, but on n/a engines they can cause problems.

Well my gut was wrong, ngk iridium are Oem with that engine.

[plasticuser]

Iridium conducts well, and it's the second hardest metal with a very high heat resistance, so it's perfectly suited to spark plug use in any kind of engine. All we need it to do is put a spark across a gap. When using an iridium plug, you can widen the gap a little to increase the surface area and temperature of the spark. This improves the initiation of combustion.

I wouldn't blame the plugs for the hesitation, unless you're getting a true misfire condition.

[Vman455]

Originally Posted by HilseeJ

Well.... I do? My CEL would blink when I was EOC'ing and I've had to replace 2 parts that would be associated with damage related to EOC'ing via key-off.

I installed a kill switch in August by cutting the wire from the ECU to the main fuel pump relay. You can do it this way, but it will trip the vehicle immobilizer and you'll end up having to cycle the ignition to reset that before starting. My MIL flashes if I kill the engine with the switch (cutting the fuel), but not if I turn the key off and on. The MIL disappears after several seconds of EOC in either case, and doesn't reappear when the car is bump started. 2005 Civic, BTW.

If you figure out a way around the immobilizer, I'm dying to know, and I know at least one other Honda owner on this board is too!