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Old 01-24-2013, 03:52 PM   #21 (permalink)
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if you look at the diagram posted above, it you cut the wire not in the spot listed you will kill the whole fuel system, not just the injectors. you also kill power to the immobilizer and then need to cycle the ecu. just killing the injectors will not cause the issues listed by vman455.

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Old 02-01-2013, 09:01 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Well, well, well. It appears that I now understand what I need to do. However, I still have a few questions. But first, let's start with the materials list.

* denotes a question involving the item

(1) Momentary Switch, Normally Open

(2) 5 pole relay - Bosch 30 Amp

(3) Inline fuse holder - 20 Amp

(4) 15 Amp Fuse (for holder) *

(5) 16 gauge wire

(6) Ring Spade for Ground *

(7) Male and female spade connectors *

(8) Are there any other materials I am missing? (I already have solder and a soldering gun)

Questions:

Do the above items look right? Are there any items I am missing / don't need / got the wrong amperage on?


Regarding item (4):

Is 15 amps the right number? According to this diagram, the wire appears to be 15 Amp. Is that correct?

Regarding item (6):

How exactly does one find a ground? I never understood this in grade school, and to this day I am still confused.

Regarding item (7):

I was thinking of putting spade connectors in when I splice into the wire. That way, if something goes wrong, I can just unplug the relay and slip the two ends of the injector signal wire back into place.

Would this work or am I missing something?

WeatherSpotter had some complicated circuit board that I didn't really understand.

Again, thanks for all the help and thoughts fellas. I am grateful.

And my apologies to Mr. 3-Wheeler. Your car is awesome. I wish I knew how to make that aeromod, and make it look that sexy.
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Old 02-02-2013, 03:33 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Regarding item (4):

Is 15 amps the right number? According to this diagram, the wire appears to be 15 Amp. Is that correct?

"Always size the fuse / breaker to the cable"
- I'm not endorsing 15 Amps as being the right number - I've only glanced over your questions to answer some.. but - 15A cable, 15A fuse. Where you use two sizes of cable, 15A for some, 10A for some, then at most, a 10A fuse.

Regarding item (6):

How exactly does one find a ground? I never understood this in grade school, and to this day I am still confused.

"In DC circuits, ground is the negative terminal. In car electrics, typically (check yourself) - the ground terminal of the battery (negative) is typically connected to the body, and so the entire body is connected to the ground of the battery. Some can be positive though, so Check!"
Or what I'd do is find black and check it has continuity through to ground - and that is what I'd use!

Regarding item (7):

I was thinking of putting spade connectors in when I splice into the wire. That way, if something goes wrong, I can just unplug the relay and slip the two ends of the injector signal wire back into place.

Would this work or am I missing something?

"Wire the relay fail on. That is, your relay has 5 wires, the coil on that you switch, and a Normally Closed side, and a Normally Open side.
Wire your circuit such that when you switch the relay "ON", the circuit to the injectors are broken, when you switch it off, or, for example, the wire is broken, the injectors just keep going as the relay is OFF."
There's stacks of info on automotive 5 pole relays on the net
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Old 02-02-2013, 07:28 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HilseeJ View Post
Well, well, well. It appears that I now understand what I need to do. However, I still have a few questions. But first, let's start with the materials list.

* denotes a question involving the item

(1) Momentary Switch, Normally Open

(2) 5 pole relay - Bosch 30 Amp

(3) Inline fuse holder - 20 Amp

(4) 15 Amp Fuse (for holder) *

(5) 16 gauge wire

(6) Ring Spade for Ground *

(7) Male and female spade connectors *

(8) Are there any other materials I am missing? (I already have solder and a soldering gun)

Questions:

Do the above items look right? Are there any items I am missing / don't need / got the wrong amperage on?


Regarding item (4):

Is 15 amps the right number? According to this diagram, the wire appears to be 15 Amp. Is that correct?

Regarding item (6):

How exactly does one find a ground? I never understood this in grade school, and to this day I am still confused.

Regarding item (7):

I was thinking of putting spade connectors in when I splice into the wire. That way, if something goes wrong, I can just unplug the relay and slip the two ends of the injector signal wire back into place.

Would this work or am I missing something?

WeatherSpotter had some complicated circuit board that I didn't really understand.

Again, thanks for all the help and thoughts fellas. I am grateful.

And my apologies to Mr. 3-Wheeler. Your car is awesome. I wish I knew how to make that aeromod, and make it look that sexy.
You can fuse it smaller, say 5 or 10 amps.

spade connectors is exactly what i used and they are a great way of making the car immobile when parking for a while, just pull one apart and the car will not start . but they are just as useful to have if your wiring is messed up or breaks then you can put it back to normal.

Your car is a Neg (-) ground system. so any bare metal on the car is a ground point. you know how a flashlight battery has a + and a - end? you could call the - end the ground. this works for most DC systems. AC (house current) its a different thing but for your car the ground is just another name for the neg connection.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:14 PM   #25 (permalink)
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I reckon' I'm a bit confused now...

What exactly am I looking for? Am I going to have to crack open the ECU? for some reason I thought the diagram was of the wires leading up to the ECU, now I'm pretty sure that's not the case.

I see a few connections but I'm still not sure what exactly I'm looking at in the diagram...

Googling for PGM-FI Immobilizer system location puts it where the ECU is, if my sources were accurate.
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:20 PM   #26 (permalink)
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You do not need to open the ECU. The diagram is of the wires leading up to the ECU. so you just need to splice one of those.
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:44 PM   #27 (permalink)
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...Bump. @HilseeJ - did you ever get it sorted out?

I just bought a Fit and will be implementing some sort of kill switch.

Try as I might, I am unable to find a write up. If it doesn't exist, I'll create it.

So, using the PGM-FI system wiring diagram previously linked by Weatherspotter, I realize I need to find this Yellow wire with black stripe. Iíve popped the hood and poked around. It seems to me Iím going to have to start opening up the harness covering and poke around until I find it. The diagrams Iíve found so far do not make it clear to me how far upstream of the injectors I can go before the next junction for another fuel system component which I do not wish to electrically open Ė Iím guessing the IAC would be next, but do I care if itís circuit is open? I would think immobilizer would be close to the PCM and I should then have quite a bit of junctions and options to try and pick off an easy one. Here is a link to ďWire harness LocationsĒ. Iím guessing those other two up front are for fan and temp sensors which should also not be critical, right? Iím thinking about going in right in front where the harness comes down and around the intake Ė see photo. Thoughts?

hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/CTL/IMGFRAME.HTML
Here is the main harness diagram which I believe contains this 12v+ yellow/black wire. (sorry, I don't have permission to post links yet)

I tried attaching a mark-up of where I'm thinking of playing Operation first - need to churn out 4 more posts first.

Hopefully you can copy paste this into browser for pic
dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/58915303/2008%20Fit/IMG_20150420_114802_resize_markup.jpg

Thanks,
JL
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:48 PM   #28 (permalink)
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instead of under the hood, look behind the glove box, getting at the ECU is much better then doing it under the hood. I found mine by looking up the pin out (plug configuration) for my ECU. If you can find yours then find that plug and wire and the hard part is done.

my mod is still working well.
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Old 04-20-2015, 02:11 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weather Spotter View Post
instead of under the hood, look behind the glove box, getting at the ECU is much better then doing it under the hood. I found mine by looking up the pin out (plug configuration) for my ECU. If you can find yours then find that plug and wire and the hard part is done.

my mod is still working well.
Thanks. I actually looked there first, but I was worried interrupting yellow/black wire there would kill immobilizer and was, therefore, not the preferred method.
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Old 04-20-2015, 02:24 PM   #30 (permalink)
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I did it at the ECU (about 4" past the connector) and had no issue.

by interrupting the signal, your not doing anything different then the signal to shut it off when the key goes to off. If you try it and it has an issue, undo it and it should reset. Try it first by "having a loose wire" (run the car and pull the wire out of the plug... if it shuts down put in back in and try to start. if it does then you got the right one.

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