Honda CBR600F2 conversion - Page 5 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

jackbauer · 08-24-2010, 03:23 AM

10k max rpm. 3.9kw each at s1. Motor number 2 now ready for install.

jackbauer · 08-29-2010, 01:30 PM

Well motor number one now installed and first test run at 12v:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mip75fp6-MM

Automcdonough · 08-29-2010, 03:06 PM

exciting! this project is flying quick

MPaulHolmes · 08-29-2010, 09:46 PM

Awesome! So the motor doesn't have to be aligned like it does in a car. I guess that will be easier than I thought, mounting a motor in a motor bike. The chain gives you a little bit of slop possibility. Awesome job!

euromodder · 08-30-2010, 04:12 AM

Somehow, the video stops after about 6min 24s

Dunno if you had already planned that, but if your engine bolts went all the way from left to right, or if the engine effectively acted as a giant spacer between both sides, then you'd better also add a spacer between the left and right side to keep the frame rigid without pinching it together.

The original engine is load-bearing in these designs, so something solid needs to be there to replace its secondary function.

Tweety · 08-30-2010, 11:12 AM

Jack, the chain is supposed to be adjusted such that you get 30-40 mm of movement in the mid point with a rider sitting on the bike...

I'll see if I can find a pdf of the service manual for that bike to link for you... Should be helpful figuring out the stuff you aren't swapping out...

Christ · 08-30-2010, 12:03 PM

Paul -

If you go hooking the motor up to a shaft drive bike, then yes, it will have to be aligned. Else, no, not really.

Chain tension -

Since you're at this stage, to set initial tension for proper chain stretch, remove the shock linkage and make a center line between the sprockets, then adjust the rear wheel so that the chain is tight, like almost no movement at finger pressure. With the swingarm acting as the centerline between both sprockets, the chain is at it's longest stretch, so everything else is slacken.

Chassis rigidity -

Yeah, you need to finish any area where the engine was bolted with a cross member for the frame. The engine in most sport-bike applications is considered a "stressed member", and it saves weight off the frame by doing so, however, in situations like yours, it's a problem because you lose much of the frame's lateral bracing.

The fix is to have a machinist cut you some tubing with the same internal diameter as the mount bolts, and the length of the area that the motor used to occupy. It can be aluminum or steel, but aluminum will need to be a thicker wall.

jackbauer · 08-30-2010, 01:54 PM

Thanks for the advice guys. I will be building a new frame to take up the slack of the missing engine. I have some 25mm aluminium round and a lathe so i'll be making up some parts as Christ suggested to span the frame.

jackbauer · 08-30-2010, 04:48 PM

Need a bit of advice. Fitted the second motor and sprocket the evening. Typically , the distance between the sprockets (between the two motors) was just a few mil short to make a join. Of course when i cut the chain at the next link its way too long. Would i be right in thinking that if i went from 13t to 14t sprockets for the motor link chain that it would take up the slack? Or would it push me into another "no man's land" between two links?

euromodder · 08-30-2010, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jackbauer

Would i be right in thinking that if i went from 13t to 14t sprockets for the motor link chain that it would take up the slack?

If you did that on one sprocket, it'd change the apparent chain length by half a link, as half a link more is required to go round half the larger sprocket.

Doing so on two sprockets would eat up a whole link .

I have this sinking feeling that chain length is going to dictate the distance between your engines ...