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Old 04-18-2008, 03:33 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I'd suspect killing the fuel pump would be more likely to trigger a CEL than killing the injectors (another guess)

How about finding the power for the odometer, and adding a tank circuit?

Do you guys know we have made this WAY to complicated?

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Old 04-18-2008, 03:36 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RH77 View Post
Duh, why didn't I think of that!

Oh, maybe because...
  1. It won't immediately kill the engine
  2. As the engine dies, you're killing it by running lean, and
  3. Then you need to build the pressure back up for the EVAP can.

Have you tried it?

RH77
1. It does immediatly kill the engine because I have pressed the gas after and there is no noise and the scangauge goes dead...
2. This is not some performance engine where's it's making 600hp and needs to be tuned so it won't run lean...it's not like i'm flooring it to redline and cut the engine. I press in the clutch let the rpms go down to idle and cut the engine.
3. What pressure???

Besides what do you think happens when you park your car and turn the key to the off position??? I do exactly the same thing except I do it while driving...
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Old 04-18-2008, 03:39 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dremd View Post
Do you guys know we have made this WAY to complicated?
If hypermiling was easy, everyone would be doing it

The trick is, we have a variety of models, years, etc. with the same requirement: Streamlining the process, without CELs.

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Old 04-18-2008, 03:45 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I have never gotten a CEL doing this and even if I do get one the scanguage will take care of it...
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Old 04-19-2008, 12:10 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Compaq888 View Post
1. It does immediatly kill the engine because I have pressed the gas after and there is no noise and the scangauge goes dead...
May work for you...

But I definitely have some sputtering issues sometimes after killing the fuel pump.

Makes sense, kill the pressure in the fuel line and there'll still be some residual pressure in the lines that will have to be released by the injectors. Resulting in injectors firing after the switch is thrown. More so if the gas pedal isn't depressed (engine idling) when the switch is thrown.
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Old 04-19-2008, 12:30 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Compaq888 View Post
1. It does immediatly kill the engine because I have pressed the gas after and there is no noise and the scangauge goes dead...
2. This is not some performance engine where's it's making 600hp and needs to be tuned so it won't run lean...it's not like i'm flooring it to redline and cut the engine. I press in the clutch let the rpms go down to idle and cut the engine.
3. What pressure???

Besides what do you think happens when you park your car and turn the key to the off position??? I do exactly the same thing except I do it while driving...
1. Perhaps on your engine... mine sure doesn't (ditto my last car) And that's weird you SG goes dead - I'll add that to the list of reasons I'd prefer not to go that route (my SG stays live with spark cut)
2. emissions
3. pressure: colloquial for vacuum pressure

When I turn my key off - my ECU cuts fuel and spark, some solenoids close etc...

RH77 got it spot on
Quote:
The trick is, we have a variety of models, years, etc. with the same requirement: Streamlining the process, without CELs.
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Old 04-21-2008, 01:52 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I think I may have a solution that will work best for me. I can cut the ignition wire in the steering column, add a 12v10A SPDT relay, and run it to a button switch by the parking brake to activate the relay. I would still prefer a time delay relay to make things easier, but that can come later.

Compaq888, I'm not ignoring your solution, but since I can't reset error codes with a ScanGauge ('95 model year ), I would like to avoid the possibility of throwing a code at all. I have also used a fuel cut-off switch on an old truck that could run Gas, or Propane, and it could go for 1.5 blocks before the gas totally ran out. Granted that engine had a carb, and this is FI, and my logical brain does know the difference, my emotional brain wants nothing to do with it. I like that you have found a solution that works for you though.
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Old 04-25-2008, 10:33 AM   #28 (permalink)
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how much is a engine kill going to gain you ??
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Old 04-25-2008, 10:46 AM   #29 (permalink)
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Killing the engine while coasting is an advanced technique that should only be learned away from traffic, and it's not suitable for every car.

That said, you could expect gains of about 10% if you consistently shut the engine off where you currently let it idle while stopped and when coasting.
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:00 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Killing the engine while coasting is an advanced technique that should only be learned away from traffic, and it's not suitable for every car.

That said, you could expect gains of about 10% if you consistently shut the engine off where you currently let it idle while stopped and when coasting.
wow 10% seams high for just cutting out idle , how about re-start ?
oh i mean rolling idle

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