I'm curious about a "nitrous" style engine kill button

[dremd]

I'd vote for killing the Injectors over the Ignition. You would be wasting fuel wile the engine died, where as with killing the injectors you are only loosing a little electricity.

But what do I know, I don't have an ignition system.

[trebuchet03]

Originally Posted by Volones

Yep, when I move the key from 'run' to 'off or acc', the speedo and odo stop working. It's what I'm doing now, and only lose 2 seconds so it's not the end of the world, but a push button would be so much easier and would get used much more often. I'm even looking at incorporating a time-delay relay so I don't have to hold the button for those two seconds (more 'user friendly', or if you prefer, lazy).

Toggle Switch

The "manual time delay relay" - adjustable too Flip it off to kill, then flip it back on whenever you're ready to restart

I'd vote for killing the Injectors over the Ignition. You would be wasting fuel wile the engine died, where as with killing the injectors you are only loosing a little electricity.

Didn't someone try this? With poor results... I think it was something about the ECU not having a feedback loop with the injectors other than the O2 sensor(s) and such. Instead of just killing the engine - it killed and threw a CEL... I'll have to search around to find the post again (it may have been on the "other" forum ).

[dremd]

I think cutting fuel triggering a CEL would depend on the ECU. Just guessing that the newer the car, the more likely it would be to throw a code.

[Yaristock]

But if your car is OBDII and you had a scangauge then you could reset the codes yourself anyways.

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by trebuchet03

Toggle Switch

The "manual time delay relay" - adjustable too Flip it off to kill, then flip it back on whenever you're ready to restart

Tried this. Got in trouble a handful of times forgetting to switch it back on among all the other driving tasks going on early in the learning curve.

I'm not the type of driver I would have predicted would have made that kind of mistake, so I ditched it and opted for a momentary switch pretty quickly.

[Volones]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Tried this. Got in trouble a handful of times forgetting to switch it back on among all the other driving tasks going on early in the learning curve.

This is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. I can just picture myself not turning the switch back on and bouncing my forehead off the steering wheel when I try to restart the engine.

After doing a little research, all of the push button shift knobs I've found are normally open switches, so I will have to use some sort of relay, or replace the switch in the knob. Personally, I'd rather use a relay. I think this can be done for approx. $50 depending on the price of the push button shift knob. The other option is to install a momentary switch somewhere else and save money, but I really favor the convenience of having the switch where my hand is already.

[RH77]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Got in trouble a handful of times forgetting to switch it back on among all the other driving tasks going on early in the learning curve.

My biggest problem was the multi-tasking in the early EOC routine. I made the mistake of grinding the starter on a few occasions not realizing that the engine didn't quit (from a high idle or higher RPM kill -- switched back to "ON" too soon and it sputtered back to operation).

The SGII helps, since fits right in the instrument cluster area and instead of focusing high on the dash, the tach is right there.

RH77

[RH77]

Originally Posted by AndrewJ

Rick, It's my understanding that if you disrupt any of the ECU's info about the position of a rotating part (here I mean engine part like crank angle sensor, TDC sensor, rotor sensor, etc) then the ECU is not gonna get "confused" it's just going to, for saftey's sake, default to killing the engine.

The trick is to do it without throwing a code/CEL.

That being said, I think you're on the right track with the +12v-Ignition thing.

I guess the only way to know for sure is to cut the wire
You could always just solder it back together if it doesn't work right?

Let me know if you find something that works.

Your integra's wiring should be pretty much identical to my civic's (and preludes for that matter)

Well, you were exactly right. It threw a Crankshaft Position Sensor fault code.

I had the distributor apart, took pix, documented the process, wired it up, and nothing happened

Ah, it's all good -- I don't EOC that much anyway, I was hoping it was an easy fix if people needed it.

It wouldn't start with the wire disconnected, but it ran with the switch flipped

Oh well, I guess the best bet is to cut the injectors and reset it with the SG.

RH77

BTW, how do you know if your cap and rotor are worn? Seems like an easy install...

[Compaq888]

Why are you goys making this so difficult???

It's pretty simple...you find the wire(s) for the fuel pump that are connected to the ecu...you cut that wire(s)...you put the relay between the fuel pump wire and the ecu...you attach a on-off switch to the relay... and when you want the engine off all you do is turn the switch off and the engine goes off...you want it on then switch it on and and bump start your car or start it..

1. You don't have to mess with turning of the keys...
2. Your odometer keeps on working
3. You get no check engine light
4. you save yourself a headache

This is what I don't like about car modding...you can either make it right or you can make it work with a ****load of problems...

[RH77]

Duh, why didn't I think of that!

Oh, maybe because...

1. It won't immediately kill the engine
2. As the engine dies, you're killing it by running lean, and
3. Then you need to build the pressure back up for the EVAP can.

Have you tried it?

RH77

Originally Posted by Compaq888

Why are you goys making this so difficult???

It's pretty simple...you find the wire(s) for the fuel pump that are connected to the ecu...you cut that wire(s)...you put the relay between the fuel pump wire and the ecu...you attach a on-off switch to the relay... and when you want the engine off all you do is turn the switch off and the engine goes off...you want it on then switch it on and and bump start your car or start it..

1. You don't have to mess with turning of the keys...
2. Your odometer keeps on working
3. You get no check engine light
4. you save yourself a headache

This is what I don't like about car modding...you can either make it right or you can make it work with a ****load of problems...