Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > DIY / How-to
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 04-17-2008, 03:54 PM   #11 (permalink)
EV OR DIESEL
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 1,724

FarFarfrumpumpen - '03 Volkswagen Jetta Wagon GLS Premium

Quorra - '12 Tesla Model S P85
Thanks: 55
Thanked 95 Times in 75 Posts
Send a message via AIM to dremd
I'd vote for killing the Injectors over the Ignition. You would be wasting fuel wile the engine died, where as with killing the injectors you are only loosing a little electricity.

But what do I know, I don't have an ignition system.

__________________
2012 Tesla Model S P85
2013 Nissan LEAF SV totaled by now deceased intoxacated driver.
2012 Nissan LEAF SV
6 speed ALH TDI Swapped in to a 2003 Jetta Wagon
  Reply With Quote
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 04-17-2008, 04:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
MechE
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 1,151

The Miata - '01 Mazda MX-5 Miata
Thanks: 0
Thanked 20 Times in 17 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Volones View Post
Yep, when I move the key from 'run' to 'off or acc', the speedo and odo stop working. It's what I'm doing now, and only lose 2 seconds so it's not the end of the world, but a push button would be so much easier and would get used much more often. I'm even looking at incorporating a time-delay relay so I don't have to hold the button for those two seconds (more 'user friendly', or if you prefer, lazy).
Toggle Switch

The "manual time delay relay" - adjustable too Flip it off to kill, then flip it back on whenever you're ready to restart

Quote:
I'd vote for killing the Injectors over the Ignition. You would be wasting fuel wile the engine died, where as with killing the injectors you are only loosing a little electricity.
Didn't someone try this? With poor results... I think it was something about the ECU not having a feedback loop with the injectors other than the O2 sensor(s) and such. Instead of just killing the engine - it killed and threw a CEL... I'll have to search around to find the post again (it may have been on the "other" forum ).
__________________
Cars have not created a new problem. They merely made more urgent the necessity to solve existing ones.
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2008, 05:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
EV OR DIESEL
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: South Louisiana
Posts: 1,724

FarFarfrumpumpen - '03 Volkswagen Jetta Wagon GLS Premium

Quorra - '12 Tesla Model S P85
Thanks: 55
Thanked 95 Times in 75 Posts
Send a message via AIM to dremd
I think cutting fuel triggering a CEL would depend on the ECU. Just guessing that the newer the car, the more likely it would be to throw a code.
__________________
2012 Tesla Model S P85
2013 Nissan LEAF SV totaled by now deceased intoxacated driver.
2012 Nissan LEAF SV
6 speed ALH TDI Swapped in to a 2003 Jetta Wagon
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-17-2008, 11:46 PM   #14 (permalink)
Yaris What????
 
Yaristock's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sumner County, TN
Posts: 115

Yari - '07 Toyota Yaris Liftback
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
But if your car is OBDII and you had a scangauge then you could reset the codes yourself anyways.
__________________
Yaris Liftback + 3 Adults + Toddler + Luggage/Crap = 40mpg@80mph
It just came to me about blogging lol. Its like an orgasm a few good shots and the rest is dribbles lol!
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2008, 09:22 AM   #15 (permalink)
Batman Junior
 
MetroMPG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 1000 Islands, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 21,295

Blackfly - '98 Geo Metro
Team Metro
Last 3: 70.09 mpg (US)

MPGiata - '90 Mazda Miata
90 day: 52.8 mpg (US)

Winter beater Metro - '00 Chevrolet Metro
90 day: 73.57 mpg (US)

Fancy Metro - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage top spec
90 day: 58.53 mpg (US)
Thanks: 3,068
Thanked 5,947 Times in 3,081 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by trebuchet03 View Post
Toggle Switch

The "manual time delay relay" - adjustable too Flip it off to kill, then flip it back on whenever you're ready to restart
Tried this. Got in trouble a handful of times forgetting to switch it back on among all the other driving tasks going on early in the learning curve.

I'm not the type of driver I would have predicted would have made that kind of mistake, so I ditched it and opted for a momentary switch pretty quickly.
__________________
Latest mods test: 15 mods = 15% MPG improvement: A-B test, 2007 Honda Civic 1.8L, 5-speed
Ecodriving test:
Manual vs. automatic transmission MPG showdown: Nissan Micra 1.6L



EcoModder
has launched a forum for the efficient new Mitsubishi Mirage
www.MetroMPG.com - fuel efficiency info for Geo Metro owners
www.ForkenSwift.com - electric car conversion on a beer budget
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2008, 11:38 AM   #16 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: USA
Posts: 70
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Tried this. Got in trouble a handful of times forgetting to switch it back on among all the other driving tasks going on early in the learning curve.
This is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. I can just picture myself not turning the switch back on and bouncing my forehead off the steering wheel when I try to restart the engine.

After doing a little research, all of the push button shift knobs I've found are normally open switches, so I will have to use some sort of relay, or replace the switch in the knob. Personally, I'd rather use a relay. I think this can be done for approx. $50 depending on the price of the push button shift knob. The other option is to install a momentary switch somewhere else and save money, but I really favor the convenience of having the switch where my hand is already.
__________________



*Time period is from 1 January 2006 - 1 March 2007*
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2008, 11:56 AM   #17 (permalink)
Depends on the Day
 
RH77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kansas City Area
Posts: 1,761

Teggy - '98 Acura Integra LS
Sports Cars
90 day: 32.74 mpg (US)

IMA - '10 Honda Insight EX
Team Honda
90 day: 34.76 mpg (US)

Tessie - '06 Acura TSX Base
90 day: 28.2 mpg (US)
Thanks: 31
Thanked 40 Times in 34 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Got in trouble a handful of times forgetting to switch it back on among all the other driving tasks going on early in the learning curve.
My biggest problem was the multi-tasking in the early EOC routine. I made the mistake of grinding the starter on a few occasions not realizing that the engine didn't quit (from a high idle or higher RPM kill -- switched back to "ON" too soon and it sputtered back to operation).

The SGII helps, since fits right in the instrument cluster area and instead of focusing high on the dash, the tach is right there.

RH77
__________________
“If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein

_
_
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2008, 03:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
Depends on the Day
 
RH77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kansas City Area
Posts: 1,761

Teggy - '98 Acura Integra LS
Sports Cars
90 day: 32.74 mpg (US)

IMA - '10 Honda Insight EX
Team Honda
90 day: 34.76 mpg (US)

Tessie - '06 Acura TSX Base
90 day: 28.2 mpg (US)
Thanks: 31
Thanked 40 Times in 34 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewJ View Post
Rick, It's my understanding that if you disrupt any of the ECU's info about the position of a rotating part (here I mean engine part like crank angle sensor, TDC sensor, rotor sensor, etc) then the ECU is not gonna get "confused" it's just going to, for saftey's sake, default to killing the engine.

The trick is to do it without throwing a code/CEL.

That being said, I think you're on the right track with the +12v-Ignition thing.

I guess the only way to know for sure is to cut the wire
You could always just solder it back together if it doesn't work right?

Let me know if you find something that works.

Your integra's wiring should be pretty much identical to my civic's (and preludes for that matter)
Well, you were exactly right. It threw a Crankshaft Position Sensor fault code.

I had the distributor apart, took pix, documented the process, wired it up, and nothing happened

Ah, it's all good -- I don't EOC that much anyway, I was hoping it was an easy fix if people needed it.

It wouldn't start with the wire disconnected, but it ran with the switch flipped

Oh well, I guess the best bet is to cut the injectors and reset it with the SG.

RH77

BTW, how do you know if your cap and rotor are worn? Seems like an easy install...
__________________
“If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein

_
_
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2008, 03:38 PM   #19 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: southern cali
Posts: 159

DMC - '99 Honda Civic DX
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Why are you goys making this so difficult???

It's pretty simple...you find the wire(s) for the fuel pump that are connected to the ecu...you cut that wire(s)...you put the relay between the fuel pump wire and the ecu...you attach a on-off switch to the relay... and when you want the engine off all you do is turn the switch off and the engine goes off...you want it on then switch it on and and bump start your car or start it..

1. You don't have to mess with turning of the keys...
2. Your odometer keeps on working
3. You get no check engine light
4. you save yourself a headache

This is what I don't like about car modding...you can either make it right or you can make it work with a ****load of problems...
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2008, 04:09 PM   #20 (permalink)
Depends on the Day
 
RH77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Kansas City Area
Posts: 1,761

Teggy - '98 Acura Integra LS
Sports Cars
90 day: 32.74 mpg (US)

IMA - '10 Honda Insight EX
Team Honda
90 day: 34.76 mpg (US)

Tessie - '06 Acura TSX Base
90 day: 28.2 mpg (US)
Thanks: 31
Thanked 40 Times in 34 Posts
Duh, why didn't I think of that!

Oh, maybe because...
  1. It won't immediately kill the engine
  2. As the engine dies, you're killing it by running lean, and
  3. Then you need to build the pressure back up for the EVAP can.

Have you tried it?

RH77

Quote:
Originally Posted by Compaq888 View Post
Why are you goys making this so difficult???

It's pretty simple...you find the wire(s) for the fuel pump that are connected to the ecu...you cut that wire(s)...you put the relay between the fuel pump wire and the ecu...you attach a on-off switch to the relay... and when you want the engine off all you do is turn the switch off and the engine goes off...you want it on then switch it on and and bump start your car or start it..

1. You don't have to mess with turning of the keys...
2. Your odometer keeps on working
3. You get no check engine light
4. you save yourself a headache

This is what I don't like about car modding...you can either make it right or you can make it work with a ****load of problems...

__________________
“If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research” ― Albert Einstein

_
_
  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread


Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
DIY: Push Button Start SVOboy DIY / How-to 20 07-10-2014 10:43 AM
Coasting experiment: engine on VS engine off on a fixed route = 12.9% gain MetroMPG Hypermiling / EcoDriver's Ed 6 02-22-2008 09:38 AM
Winter mod - heater blower integrated with engine kill switch MetroMPG EcoModding Central 3 12-31-2007 11:31 PM
Basic EcoDriving Techniques and Instrumentation SVOboy Instrumentation 2 11-17-2007 12:38 PM



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com