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Old 08-31-2009, 05:16 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Did I miss it or has anyone considered making the front wheels electrically driven? I mean you already have half the system in place. I'm no expert but it seems like you could do it.

I've tried to encourage people to hook up an electric motor to a CRV too. It would have to be a non-realtime AWD model though I think. Or not, by all means, correct me if I'm wrong... nicely though. Don't be a ****ing **** or I'll report you in a heartbeat.

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Old 08-31-2009, 05:18 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluetwo View Post
Did I miss it or has anyone considered making the front wheels electrically driven? I mean you already have half the system in place. I'm no expert but it seems like you could do it.

I've tried to encourage people to hook up an electric motor to a CRV too. It would have to be a non-realtime AWD model though I think. Or not, by all means, correct me if I'm wrong.
Yeah, we explore that in another thread for this member. I think that's still the best way to go.

The CR-V has an electrically operated clutch pack at the rear. If somebody could figure out a way to either remove or permanently lock up that clutch pack, they could then run the rear off of a motor. (A bit more of a clearance problem under the CR-V than under a pickup, though.)
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:18 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Clev, that post that you quoted of mine, I was referring to solid mounting the motor to the frame, and using a chain to connect the motor to the driveshaft.

What you were suggesting in that same post, is basically the equivalent of using the e-motor for a carrier bearing. This is fine, as long as the armature can stand up to the driveshaft's speeds and torque. Remember, that driveshaft gets going REALLY fast. Also, it would require less of a HP rating, and thus, a smaller e-motor, if it were chain driven with a lower gear ratio, such as the same as 2nd gear in a truck, which would still allow for most low-speed city driving scenarios, and be more efficient for said purpose, due to less weight and power requirement.
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:26 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roflwaffle View Post
An ADC 9" should be fine as long as the driveshaft angles and mounting are solid. Here's an example of a similar setup. I hesitate to recommend it from the POV of cost in terms of engine assist for automatics because it's only reducing engine operating efficiency in that context. The only payback is if the vehicle's owner has a manual transmission and can operate on battery power alone instead of using their engine at low load AFAIK.
Another example of the emis inline drive shaft mounted motor:
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:28 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Don't be a ****ing **** or I'll report you in a heartbeat.
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Christ, if you geared a motor to run at effective "second gear" speeds, wouldn't that make it (the motor) rev to hell and back @ 60?
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:29 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Christ View Post
Also, it would require less of a HP rating, and thus, a smaller e-motor, if it were chain driven with a lower gear ratio, such as the same as 2nd gear in a truck, which would still allow for most low-speed city driving scenarios, and be more efficient for said purpose, due to less weight and power requirement.
Sorry, I must not have read closely enough. I read enough of your post to think you and I were on the same page.

I guess the only problem with the chain-driven smaller motor is that you'd need a disconnect or overrunning clutch to keep from overspeeding it at freeway speeds.
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:34 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silveredwings View Post
Another example of the emis inline drive shaft mounted motor:
What the?.... I admit I'm feeling a bit clueless on that one but does that go in a bimmer? I have got to look at that closer.
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:34 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clev View Post
Sorry, I must not have read closely enough. I read enough of your post to think you and I were on the same page.

I guess the only problem with the chain-driven smaller motor is that you'd need a disconnect or overrunning clutch to keep from overspeeding it at freeway speeds.
It's cool, it really did apply to both, though it was more directed at being chain driven. Either way, you've got to have a 2 piece driveshaft to pull it off properly, or a very elaborate variable mount system, which just makes it not even worth it.

I was thinking more like an overrunning gear hub, like you'd find on most 20" and larger bikes with a single speed rear tire. This way, the motor couldn't be used for braking, but in the interest of "cheap", regenerative braking is out the window anyway.
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Old 08-31-2009, 06:35 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silveredwings View Post
Another example of the emis inline drive shaft mounted motor:
Yeah, that's kind what I was getting at. It doesn't look like Netgain did anything special to that except bolt on a U-joint at each end. (The EMIS box is actually the motor control bit; looks like they use a standard Warp motor.)

One person on the EVDL has two ADC 8" motors belted together, and another had three 9" motors mounted end-to-end. In both cases, the motor closest to the transmission must handle the torque from the other motors. In both of these cases, the standard ADC shaft was sufficient. There might be a slight possibility of concern in the case of using the 4WD low range for something like pulling a stump, but even then, half of the torque is going to the front wheels.
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Old 08-31-2009, 07:37 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roflwaffle View Post
An ADC 9" should be fine as long as the driveshaft angles and mounting are solid. Here's an example of a similar setup. I hesitate to recommend it from the POV of cost in terms of engine assist for automatics because it's only reducing engine operating efficiency in that context. The only payback is if the vehicle's owner has a manual transmission and can operate on battery power alone instead of using their engine at low load AFAIK.
Yes, my particular application has a manual, however.
Is the loss of efficiency you refer to WRT an unlocked torque converter?

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