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Old 06-20-2011, 12:17 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowmover View Post
21.4 is not that different from what we saw in our first 2WD '01 (stock, A/C, 3 pax, loaded, 70-mph). Am enjoying this thread as we still have (another) one.
In that case, I'll happily quote Mr. Sheen..... "Winning!"

Mine is pushing a 4WD drivetrain, 400 lbs of bumpers and armor, 80 lbs of tree pulling/idiot rescuing winch, and a definately not-so-aero bullbar.

Actually, maybe I could pick up some polycarbonate and heat form a grill block for the bullbar that my lights can still work through.... Each bullbar verticle conveniently has about a 3/16 'lip' that could securely hold one side of some lexan.



1. How does this look to those of you who've done grill blocks? Success or failure doesn't matter as long as you learned from it.
2. Does this appear to be enough airflow for the radiator?
I'd especially like to hear from you FastPlastic. This does not actually block the grill openings off, but redirects the oncoming airflow around the vehicle so it can still suck air as needed.

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Old 06-20-2011, 12:32 AM   #52 (permalink)
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You can check my photo album to see what grill blocks I have on my Jeep, granted I don't have a full set of bumpers and armor, but still. With a gap behind the bull bar you might actually hurt the aerodynamics(don't quote me on that one though), might be better to go with what I did.
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Old 06-20-2011, 12:44 AM   #53 (permalink)
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I was thinking the same thing initially, but I've got a nagging feeling that the getting the majority of the airflow around the convoluded nose full of lights, bars and so forth will pay better dividends than just blocking part of the grill.
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Old 06-20-2011, 12:50 AM   #54 (permalink)
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one way to find out
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Old 06-20-2011, 03:36 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Lifting a vehicle for better MPG?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepNmpg2 View Post
Tomorrow I'm picking up the materials for the bellypan for this weekends work before the upcoming trip.
Got a bit overzealous there, I actually did some detailed measuring this morning and extrapolated out that my exhaust downpipe would be roughly .25 to .5 of an inch from the coroplast - which is a definate no-no.

Here's the real kicker, who would have thought that I'd have to lift my vehicle an inch for ecomodding purposes? Just kidding, I'm looking for an alternative material for that area like some kind of sheet stock. Other than that, it will be the same M.O. of angle aluminum stock and rivets.
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Old 06-20-2011, 03:44 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepNmpg2 View Post
Here's the real kicker, who would have thought that I'd have to lift my vehicle an inch for ecomodding purposes? Just kidding, I'm looking for an alternative material for that area like some kind of sheet stock. Other than that, it will be the same M.O. of angle aluminum stock and rivets.
I used galvanized steel. So far unpainted in many places it's holding up well. Only spot that is rusting directly contacts the exhaust pipe, which really didn't surprise me. You can find it in the heating and cooling section of lowes/Home Depot. It's thick enough that in smaller pieces it will hold its shape, and only cost about $7-$10 a sheet.
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Old 06-20-2011, 03:47 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FastPlastic View Post
I used galvanized steel. So far unpainted in many places it's holding up well. Only spot that is rusting directly contacts the exhaust pipe, which really didn't surprise me. You can find it in the heating and cooling section of lowes/Home Depot. It's thick enough that in smaller pieces it will hold its shape, and only cost about $7-$10 a sheet.
Do you think I would need that particular section to be only the Galvanized Steel, or would it work as a heat shield of sorts if I used a few rubber washers to space it above the coroplast around the exhaust pipe areas?
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Old 06-20-2011, 03:56 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepNmpg2 View Post
Do you think I would need that particular section to be only the Galvanized Steel, or would it work as a heat shield of sorts if I used a few rubber washers to space it above the coroplast around the exhaust pipe areas?
I would recommend using it at least directly under the exhaust(maybe give yourself a 8-12" wide strip). You're talking about a lot of heat up there so it's best if you can dissipate some of it.
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Old 06-24-2011, 07:24 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Aeromod mudhole durability test

Well, I was playing around in the mud yesterday and ended up finding a "Georgia clay" sinkhole that buried me up to my door sills (could still open the door by about 1/2 and inch (not what I had intended). Normally I wouldn't post this on Ecomodder, however, it ended up directly testing how sturdy my mod ended up being.

I ended up having to winch myself at nearly a 90 degree angle, which I figured would for sure shear off my mod as it was a good 6-8 inches in the muck but it turns out I built in a failsafe by mistake:

Front - you can see the left side of the air dam pushed up about an inch, exposing more axle



Right side - support arm still fully intact and straight



Left Side - support arm pivoted at the bolt, allowing the pressure not to break the angle alluminum supports.



Here's an after picture of the whole vehicle after the ordeal



I am extremely pleased with this outcome, now if I can only get my other projects finished.
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Old 06-24-2011, 06:28 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Pleased that you posted this. I anticipate that leaving ahead of the crowd -- hopefully -- in the event of a hurricane may cause me to have to "offroad" briefly at one point or another. I've specifically bookmarked your thread, now, under two categories, for two different vehicles.

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