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Old 03-26-2012, 05:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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^^ I'm not asking for 50% increase only 4%

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Which would have detrimental affects on your dampers/struts/shock-absorbers, whatever you choose to call them.
I dont understand why though. I'm experienced in 4x4 offloading lifts ect. The only thing bad about going with taller springs and normal shocks is that you may bottom out the stock shock since it'll be no longer centered. I don't see why a car with a wheel travel of 3" cares if the shock is centered when it'll never bottom out.

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Then I can only suggest one of several ODBII compatible systems that will allow you to monitor coolant temperature.
I actually have a scan gauge. Are the grill dams o my for when your cruising and plan for 0 traffic?

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Old 03-26-2012, 06:00 PM   #12 (permalink)
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My Jetta MkIV grill is nearly 100% blocked off; only the lower valence is open. Used throughout the summer in Northern California. Have a Scangauge II with which I watch the temps... no problem so far. If necessary, it'd be easy for me to pop off the blocks if it does become a problem.
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spencer Fitch View Post
I dont understand why though. I'm experienced in 4x4 offloading lifts ect. The only thing bad about going with taller springs and normal shocks is that you may bottom out the stock shock since it'll be no longer centered. I don't see why a car with a wheel travel of 3" cares if the shock is centered when it'll never bottom out.
It's a generally held opinion in the modifying community that shocks that were originally matched to stock springs have a shorter-than-expected life when later used with lowering springs. I believe it's because they are under a great and constant pressure due to the decreased stroke, but I can't say I'm an expert on it.

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I actually have a scan gauge. Are the grill dams o my for when your cruising and plan for 0 traffic?
That's where the balance lies. My grill block is correx and cable ties. Should my engine temps start to peak in unforeseen conditions I can just snip them off and easily replace them.

Last edited by RunningStrong; 03-27-2012 at 01:22 PM..
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Spencer Fitch View Post
is it worth lowering? Should mileage improve? Is it worth a rougher ride possible undercarriage damage and the pain of getting in and out. I love the car but I must say it is NOT. Fun getting in or out.
If it's hard to get in & out, don't lower it ...
It'd help, but not a big deal.

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Originally Posted by Spencer Fitch View Post
But what's up with all these people doing warm air intake.
On petrol cars.
Diesels want cold air.

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I'm very scared of doing any kind of grill block. I couldn't imagine how the vehicle would stay cool or a/c would work (if it was on)
Of course, you'd want to closely monitor engine temps when adding a grille block.

There's no need to block the whole grille right away, you can start by partially blocking it, or only blocking up the top grille (usually safe to do, all cooling, intercooler and AC is then done using the lower cooling openings)

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Tire pressure is on point.
On VW's point ?

What's their pressure ?
36psi is LOW

The maximum allowed pressure is usually marked on the sidewall.
You can gradually increase pressure - at the expense of comfort - until you find it too hard for your liking, then back off a bit.


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Stock has tire spats.
Get them off for fuel efficiency.
They'll make little difference in keeping the car clean- unless you're often travelling on unpaved roads .
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Old 03-26-2012, 07:45 PM   #15 (permalink)
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It's a generally help opinion in the modifying community that shocks that were originally matched to stock springs have a shorter-than-expected life when later used with lowering springs.
No reason I can see for that unless they lowered too much and are bottoming out hard and/or frequently.

I think it's "generally held" because many "articletisements" in the enthusiast rags are pushing aftermarket products.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:34 PM   #16 (permalink)
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If it's hard to get in & out, don't lower it ...
It'd help, but not a big deal.
yea but 1.5" cant hurt that much right?

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On petrol cars.
Diesels want cold air.
oh

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Of course, you'd want to closely monitor engine temps when adding a grille block.

There's no need to block the whole grille right away, you can start by partially blocking it, or only blocking up the top grille (usually safe to do, all cooling, intercooler and AC is then done using the lower cooling openings)
ok


Quote:
On VW's point ?

What's their pressure ?
36psi is LOW

The maximum allowed pressure is usually marked on the sidewall.
You can gradually increase pressure - at the expense of comfort - until you find it too hard for your liking, then back off a bit.
Max is 51 so i do 45


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Get them off for fuel efficiency.
They'll make little difference in keeping the car clean- unless you're often travelling on unpaved roads .
wait I thought spats were infront the wheels to deflect the air..
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Old 04-14-2012, 05:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Can someone please elaborate WRT diesels wanting cold air for fuel efficiency purposes? I'm not disagreeing but would like to hear a more in-depth explanation as it goes against what I previously thought to be true from my background in EFI with petrol engines.
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Old 06-08-2012, 12:26 PM   #18 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=euromodder;295925
On petrol cars.
Diesels want cold air.[/QUOTE]

Do you know why diesels want cold air for better MPG when gassers want hot air for better mpg?
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:24 PM   #19 (permalink)
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There are a few threads here discussing that, such as http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...not-21502.html. Also check the Fuel Economy forum at TDIClub Forums - Powered by vBulletin.
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Old 06-09-2012, 09:45 AM   #20 (permalink)
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