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Old 11-25-2010, 02:06 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I finished up my hood. I used expandable foam to create a 1/2 sandwiched layer with fiberglass on top and carbon fiber on the bottom. Very lightweight and strong.



Grind and shape it into a sheet 1/2" thick. Messy time consuming work!



A layer of carbon fiber on the bottom, makes it stiff as a surfboard.



Top, still with mold release layer.



Working on the doors now. And the rear end, and front brakes, and steering column..


Last edited by nimblemotors; 11-25-2010 at 02:09 PM.. Reason: corrected spelling.
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Old 11-25-2010, 02:34 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Is that foam something you mixed & poured? Doesn't look like you sprayed it from a can.

Some people here have had bad luck with the foam, since it seems to cure unevenly, or shrink with age. I'm guessing you've done this before.
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Old 11-25-2010, 03:21 PM   #53 (permalink)
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This is polyurethane two-part mixed and pour foam.
TAP X-30 Polyurethane Foam: TAP Plastics
I'm not aware of a shrinkage problem with the stuff.

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Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Is that foam something you mixed & poured? Doesn't look like you sprayed it from a can.

Some people here have had bad luck with the foam, since it seems to cure unevenly, or shrink with age. I'm guessing you've done this before.
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Old 11-25-2010, 03:52 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Thanks!

And... what are you doing with the Geo's rear (?) suspension I see in the background of this pic - making a trailer?

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Old 11-25-2010, 05:53 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Oops, you got a glimpse of my secret 3-wheel project...

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Thanks!

And... what are you doing with the Geo's rear (?) suspension I see in the background of this pic - making a trailer?
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Old 11-25-2010, 06:23 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I have used a couple of pints of the TAP foam. It is great for making shapes and excellent at gluing pink or blue board together.

Another way of doing what you are doing is to make v shaped strips of pink or blue board and tacking it on the inside of the your panel. I would make the outside from a layer of fiberglass on the outside and a layer of carbon inside it. The fiberglass will leave a smooth surface and the carbon stiffness. Then add the strips of foam reinforcement making triangles and an other layer of composite covering the foam in strips. Balsa wood can be used in place of foam.

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Old 11-25-2010, 06:44 PM   #57 (permalink)
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Nice work on the Veloliner!
The foam doesn't really weigh enough to strip it, if it was aluminum or something stronger, it would make sense. For my doors, I'm using aluminum sheet embedded in the foam to make it much stronger.
You are right that there is a lot of "core" material used for boats that is much easier to use than mixed foam that needed grinding, balsa wood, and other material, some quite expensive. But must order it and wait wait wait for delivery, I want to get the bodywork done to clean up the mess and get back to the engine.

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Originally Posted by Varn View Post
I have used a couple of pints of the TAP foam. It is great for making shapes and excellent at gluing pink or blue board together.

Another way of doing what you are doing is to make v shaped strips of pink or blue board and tacking it on the inside of the your panel. I would make the outside from a layer of fiberglass on the outside and a layer of carbon inside it. The fiberglass will leave a smooth surface and the carbon stiffness. Then add the strips of foam reinforcement making triangles and an other layer of composite covering the foam in strips. Balsa wood can be used in place of foam.

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Old 11-26-2010, 09:08 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Old 12-15-2010, 01:56 AM   #59 (permalink)
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update

Been working on the car.

I've replaced the stock 8lbs calipers with Wilwood 1.5lb calipers,
and have shaved off some metal from the disc to make them fit,
reducing unsprung weight by 16lbs.



We had a little weather break from the rain, and have almost got the fiberglass body panels done. I'm finishing up the second fender, you can see the finished on, and the mold for the right one. The stock fender is 20lbs,
the fiberglass ones are maybe 3lbs, using foam like the hood.




I'm currently thinking about how to do the hinges and latches for the fiberglass doors.
I removed the stock hinges and latches, there are very heavy.
The doors weigh almost nothing (no windows, etc) compared to the stock 40lbs.
Any suggestions? There are aftermarket bear claw latches for hotrods, but they look to be heavy steel. I'm thinking of fabricating a bear latch in HD plastic (cutting board plastic). And make some hinges from aluminum.

I've removed the steering column and have built a lightweight aluminum column. Got a new steering wheel and have made it removable.
This saved about 6 lbs, and makes it much easier to get in/out.

I've been researching and researching on the lightest wheels and tires
that will fit a Midget. The stock 13x5 wheels and tires are 26lbs.
I weighed my 12in Geo steel wheels and was shocked how light they are 22lbs with 155r80 tires. So I found some 12x4 aluminum trailer wheels that are 4x4 and fit the Midget. Finally arrived, and they cleared the tie rods, which are very tight with the 13in wheels. Yeah! They were only 8lbs, and now my front wheels are only 20lbs each, saved 12lbs in rotating weight.

On the back, I think I've gone crazy, and am working on putting 28-in tall tires back there using the front "skinnies" for drag racers that are 15" tires.
Using 15x4 spare tires rims and wheel adapters, these should position them just right in the wheel-well, but of course 28in tall tires are monstors for a Midget, I will have to cut out all the interior steel and redo it, and may even need to modify the top of the body to allow suspension travel if I keep the car very low. Still waiting on the wheels, using the Aluminum spare wheels that came in early 90's Mustangs, they are hard to find now.
I think I have a source for two of them, but so far the sellers are flakes..


Last edited by nimblemotors; 12-15-2010 at 02:05 AM..
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Old 12-15-2010, 11:31 AM   #60 (permalink)
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Holy cow... Still pushing that ecomodder "go all out" envelope. Nice work!

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