Moving my dad's shed. (Advice? Roll on pipes? Furniture dollies?)

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by Xist

tomorrow I need to:

1. Buy 4 posts.
2. Jack up each corner of the shed.
3. Take 2x6es out of the shed and lay them down under each corner.
4. Slide a post under each corner and lower it back down.
5. Loop my big cargo strap and my tow strap; run them around the shed, and attach that with a good cargo strap to the digging bar.
6. Crank, man, crank!

[Maybe I won't leave it on the rollers]

Timelapse video, please!

What's a digging bar?

For some reason I picture you doing something like this sunken Honda rescue from Russia ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0_oKHARhXw

Skip ahead to 33 seconds.


But that would require you have a spare tree trunk to use as a lever, which would obviate the search for cheap posts to use as rollers.

[Xist]

Originally Posted by freebeard

Weren't there other threads on the subject since? Is it back to this because you're going to move it instead of, say, build a fire pit?

This thread is just about moving it.

I built the fire pit!

Originally Posted by freebeard

What are the odds a strap around the shed will disassemble it instead of moving it?

It didn't before!

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Timelapse video, please!

I figured that I would make a video explaining my setup and then showing me pulling it 4 feet.

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

What's a digging bar?

As far as I know, the only picture that I have of it is my brother helping me tighten my power steering belt:

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

For some reason I picture you doing something like this sunken Honda rescue from Russia ...

Skip ahead to 33 seconds.

But that would require you have a spare tree trunk to use as a lever, which would obviate the search for cheap posts to use as rollers.

Crazy Russian hackers!

That was a tree trunk in the ice?

I would love to try that, but I already drove in the digging bar, and I would rather not buy anything extra right now, but what about driving in some rebar 20' from where I want the shed to be, putting a metal wheelbarrow wheel on it, and tying a 16' long 2x4 to it?

[freebeard]

Were it I:

www.offroaders.com/winch-tech/winching-techniques-how-to-dig-a-dead-man-anchor

[Xist]

As you can see, digging a dead man takes time and hard work and is not going to be your first option

I modified the diagram to show my version of Basjoos's suggestion, but my laptop froze, in that charming way that it does, so I am back on my desktop. I will upload the image after I finish this post--assuming my laptop has defrosted.

One of the things that I appreciate about my current supervisor is that when I mentioned a client meeting goals during a quarter she told me to send her new ones and she would change them. This morning she asked about one of my client's goals and I responded that he has met all of his goals and needs new ones. I would write new ones after I took care of something for my brother. I got home and got on my laptop to make new goals, but she said that we were close to the new quarter; just add them then.

It may be a month before I write the new progress report. I don't want him languishing!

That was why I was using the slower computer that periodically freezes.

[Xist]

I am almost there! I just need to dig up the rest of the grass on the side of the shed, all of the grass on the front, make sure the two sides are level (at least in the front), jack up three more sides, roll the logs underneath, find my tow strap and giant cargo strap, figure out how to wrap them around the shed so that they don't fall down (temporary nails are an option), and then pull it over.
I may need to move the shed an extra foot to the side, level the ground on that side, and then move it back.
How do I dig under a shed?!

I would go back out right now and try to use the mattock without destroying the grass. My feet are sore from using the shovel [with cross-trainers and hard Arizonan dirt].

The only boots that Boot Barn has in my size are $234 combat boots.
The JC Penny's near me doesn't exist on their website.
Cal Ranch has boots starting at $80.
Sportsman's Warehouse has boots starting at $55.
Tractor Supply has boots starting at $68.

$60 or more seems like more than I want to spend for something that I will only use occasionally.

Then again, the sod cutter would cost $68 for 4 hours, which is the minimum, I would need to rent a truck to get it home, and how long would I need to cut maybe 20 square feet?

I would go back out and get as far as I can before it is dark, but my brother asked for Subway, and if I follow through quickly it should encourage him to communicate.

[Piotrsko]

I use matlocks for clearing sod, and also use safety shoes which include metal arch supports. Where did your combat boots go? Mine lasted 20 years

It will take you longer to unload, start and reload sod cutter than 20 sq ft.

[Xist]

I don't have any idea!

We were supposed to receive the new uniforms, without the useless digital pattern, when we deployed. They issued us cheap low brown boots that we were authorized to wear with our current uniform, but I hardly wore them.

Now I wear a size 13, but those are only 11s.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Xist

I would go back out right now and try to use the mattock without destroying the grass. My feet are sore from using the shovel [with cross-trainers and hard Arizonan dirt].

The only boots that Boot Barn has in my size are $234 combat boots.
The JC Penny's near me doesn't exist on their website.
Cal Ranch has boots starting at $80.
Sportsman's Warehouse has boots starting at $55.
Tractor Supply has boots starting at $68.

$60 or more seems like more than I want to spend for something that I will only use occasionally.

There a few things more expensive than cheap shoes / boots. I have to wear steel toes at work and the company reimbursement is $80 per year. The $80 steel toe shoes and boots they carry in the mobile store that comes to the plant don't last even a year. After a couple of tries with cheap boots I

My current boots are Danner Bull Run Moc Toe



Last year I had them resoled at the factory after 4 years.

My Danner Acadia boot I bought in 1992 lasted until last year with minimal care. The liner finally came apart and I didn't want to pay the price of new boots to have them "recrafted". (Danner speak for taking them apart and replacing everything except the leather outer)

[Xist]

I hear you, but even cheap boots might last the rest of my life.

[freebeard]

One hopes you're thinking of occasional use?

I got a good-fitting pair of Brahma insulated camo boots at Goodwill. I forget, but my usual price point is $8, I might have paid more. The leather laces failed so I need to replace them. As much as I've worn them they will last the rest of my natural life.

When I worked in construction I wore Danner boots. It took 45 minutes each evening to scrape and wash the mud off and give them a fresh coat of bear grease. Most comfortable were the $250 Tony Lamas I wore when I worked at Symantec.