OBII Smarter than us?

[racprops]

Racprops....if the engine is 98% efficient at burning gasoline, pray tell, how does converting it to vapor and burning it just the same improve things?

[B]OK Read this:

Modern gasoline engines have a maximum thermal efficiency of about 25% to 30% when used to power a car. In other words, even when the engine is operating at its point of maximum thermal efficiency, of the total heat energy released by the gasoline consumed, about 70-75% is rejected as heat without being turned into useful work, i.e. turning the crankshaft.[1] Approximately half of this rejected heat is carried away by the exhaust gases, and half passes through the cylinder walls or cylinder head into the engine cooling system, and is passed to the atmosphere via the cooling system radiator.[2] Some of the work generated is also lost as friction, noise, air turbulence, and work used to turn engine equipment and appliances such as water and oil pumps and the electrical generator, leaving only about 25-30% of the energy released by the fuel consumed available to move the vehicle.

@ engine efficient at burning gasoline - Bing

NOTE the 25 to 30% efficiency…

There are more detailed report saying that the reason for this inefficiency is that gas in a liquid state is injected into the engine, even as a super fine mist it is still liquid, only a small part of it vaporlizes within time to make power…(see above)

The rest is burned BUT not making any useful power, it is the waste heat that heats up the motor and is lastly burned in the Cat.

Now if you only let in the Vapor ..say only 30% and it all is burned during the power stork, and there is nothing left over what happens?

Burned is burned, same amount of oxygen, same amount of carbon, same amount of hydrogen, same engine wasting 70% of the heat energy.

Where does vaporizing the gas early help? How do you inject that? Or do we go back to carburation as a means of fuel introduction? How do you not blow yerself up?

A) By being only vapor you can burn all of it during the PS.
B) No, well not into the engine or intake, you inject it into a prechamber, and make vapor.
C) Kind of, the trick is we suck in air and add gasoline, to do this we tank a little gas and run the air though it lifting the vapor.
D) That is one of the major problems.

You come across as trying to be a learned fellow, yet, somehow basic concepts in chemistry and thermodynamics seem to be no reason in your mind to spoil a crazy idea.

I don’t think so read above…again.

Rich

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by racprops

IF I had a way to change that setting automatically for cursing (a lean cruse setting) then I could gain something like 5MPG, but at a cost of around $200.00 to $300.00 to have the computer reprogrammed don't consider it cost effective.

How is $200 to $300 for +5mpg on a 20mpg car not cost effective?
Whats wrong with you?

[oil pan 4]

We had a 2000 lincon town car for a while:
2000 Lincon Town car Gas Mileage (Towncab) - EcoModder.com
Best it could do was 24 to 26 MPG on rare occasion, this was by no means regular event.
It took warm out side temperatures, no cross winds, no A/C @ 65mph, 100% highway driving.

[racprops]

Nothing, it will only get that little extra 4/5 MPG at cruse, so only part of the time.

Rich

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

How is $200 to $300 for +5mpg on a 20mpg car not cost effective?
Whats wrong with you?

[racprops]

I know..and that is more common...

And I switched the ECU for a hotter Cop ECU and lately i up graded the Tires to 18inch wheels and a wider and more sticky set of wheels and ONLY lost around 1 to 2 MPG.

I have tested and retested that MPG and it is still the same.

At 65 MPH I can get 27/30 MPG. This does drop down when I run 75/80MPH.

Rich

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

We had a 2000 lincon town car for a while:
2000 Lincon Town car Gas Mileage (Towncab) - EcoModder.com
Best it could do was 24 to 26 MPG on rare occasion, this was by no means regular event.
It took warm out side temperatures, no cross winds, no A/C @ 65mph, 100% highway driving.

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by racprops

I know..and that is more common...

And I switched the ECU for a hotter Cop ECU and lately i up graded the Tires to 18inch wheels and a wider and more sticky set of wheels and ONLY lost around 1 to 2 MPG.

I have tested and retested that MPG and it is still the same.

At 65 MPH I can get 27/30 MPG. This does drop down when I run 75/80MPH.

Rich

So how much did you spend 18 inch wheels just to lose 1-2mpg?

[racprops]

Around $1200.00

I have found that low profile tires roll straighter and do not flip cars like large tires.

I have had a couple of blow outs over the years and large timer cause the most trouble controlling the car.

Low profile tires don't cause as much, and yes I have had a blow out with one .

So with a 18inch wheel I can run low profile tires and not change the overall wheel/tire height.

Also I am now running about 2 inch wider tire and one with more traction, traction that means more safe control in lane changes, fast curves, and more import STOPS, shorter stops.

I am running high performance tires, and they look good as well.





Note the Van behind the Mercury, it also has 18inch wheels and performance tires.

Rich

[racprops]

And as a few here think I am full of it here are a few pictures to prove otherwise:

Ford on Dyno one of the tests:



Modified dash, note ALL the readouts:



Close up of Scan Gauge, Duty Cycle readouts, Exhaust Temp.Readouts, and digital Amp Meters.



And my portable Weather Station set up on the trunk of the Ford.



Rich

[gone-ot]

Paraphrasing Cuba Gooding Jr's immortal lines from the JERRY McGUIRE movie "...show me the money data..."

[racprops]

That is what I am doing...showing you the work and tools I have aboard for MPG Testing.

Rich