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Old 09-22-2009, 10:11 AM   #2291 (permalink)
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sorry, just 8"x3" hehe. good thing it wasn't surface mount. then it would be like 1"x1.5" or something.

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Old 09-23-2009, 02:14 PM   #2292 (permalink)
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Hi Hondo! It won't let me send messages with the PM right now. A database error. I hope you get this message:

First, sorry about the tape on the end caps. I didn't know if you would want access to the inside of the controller, so I didn't glue them on. I figured I would leave that up to you.

The Red wire is for the 12v battery +. The black wire is for 12v battery -. The yellow wire isn't supported in software. It's a pretty easy thing to add. I just didn't have the setup in my car to test it. I'm going to order a
12v automotive relay for my precharge resistor, then I'll add the software for the relay. Then the turn-on sequence will be one step:

1) turn on key, which engages 12v power to controller, and closes 12v relay for the pre-charge resistor. Then software will close the main contactor after a few seconds. Then you drive around, and turn off the key. haha. pretty easy.
/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Right now the turn on sequence is:
1) Turn on 12v power to the controller.
2) Pre-charge controller caps.
3) close main contactor and drive around.

Turn off:
1) open main contactor (and precharge resistor if it was still closed)
2) turn off 12v power to controller.


The twisted wires (white and green I think?) are the 5 kOhm POT wires. It doesn't matter which of those 2 goes with which pot wires. Ignore the yellow until I get that stupid relay installed. Then I can get the software working, send you guys a new fancy improved chip, and you can start using the easy turn on/turn off stuff. sorry!

I tried to be really careful. There isn't much room for error though. If something blows up, just let me know, and I'll see what I can do.
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:59 PM   #2293 (permalink)
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I forgot about B+, M- and B-!!! I'm sorry! The PM's still aren't working for me. "database error"

The single bar sticking out one side is M-. The B+ bus bar is the one closest to the big black capacitors inside (peek through the clear endcaps). The B- bus bar is the 3rd one. hehe.

-Paul
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:33 PM   #2294 (permalink)
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Paul
On my set up the key switch sends power to the controller and contactor. What i had been doing was, turn on the main breaker under the hood, by the time i got in the caps
were charged. Is there any reason why the controller should have power on first?
I have not gotten the new controller installed yet and I don't want to mess it up.
Thanks Alvin
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Old 09-24-2009, 01:35 PM   #2295 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apowers View Post
Paul
Is there any reason why the controller should have power on first?
I have not gotten the new controller installed yet and I don't want to mess it up.
Thanks Alvin
I think it's just good practice. If there is a failure in the controller, the controller can evaluate this before closing the main contactor and report the fault. I think paul's code checks for current in the motor loop before enabling PWM output. If the controller has failed 'on', you'll have some current flowing through the precharge resistor into the motor loop. Another option, though more complicated hardware-wise, would be to measure the cap voltage and close the contactor at an appropriate level (or dV/dt?).

Otherwise, since failures in the 'ON' condition are common, you could directly connect your pack to your motor when your contactor closes and either overspeed it if it's in neutral or, worse, run into something.

I have my voltmeter set up to read the controller voltage to manually accomplish the voltage measurement. When the breaker is closed and the caps precharge, you can watch the voltage rise. When it's reasonably high, I close the main contactor and drive. If the controller has failed, the caps wouldn't charge at all and I'd know something is wrong before closing the main contactor.

All this being said, I've accidentally not followed this practice on occasion while beta testing this controller and turned the controller on after precharging. Also, since the caps take a while to discharge, I almost always turn it off while there's high voltage across the caps (though the contactor is open).

So far, no problems.
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Old 09-24-2009, 01:40 PM   #2296 (permalink)
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More controllers?

Hey Paul - sounds like there's more controllers out there getting installed! Awesome! How many new ones are out there? It'll be very interesting to see how the throttle response works on different setups.
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:36 PM   #2297 (permalink)
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I just got my "Cougar 2" controller in the mail today.

I hope to be able to instal it this coming Sunday. I am currently running a 72V Curtis controller, but would like to bump up to 96V, as my charger would support it.

All I have to do is find some room for two more batteries, and instal the controller and I'd have a 96V system.

Also, the Open Source controller can get lots of attention when I do the "How to build an Electric Car (Cheap!)" Instructional video.

-Ben Nelson
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:22 PM   #2298 (permalink)
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Hey Joe
I'll take your advice and put a toggle switch in for the contactor. thanks
Paul I finished the controller this afternoon and tested it on an LED.
It is larger than the other DIY controller I was using. So I will need to make a new
mount for it .Thanks
Alvin
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Old 09-24-2009, 11:29 PM   #2299 (permalink)
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Alvin, you don't waste words or time! man! Here's a summary of Alvin's comments on here:

"I'm going to start building one of those controllers. I'm sure I'll have lots of dumb questions."

A couple days pass...

"I'm done."

hahahahaha

Joe, there are 3 new ones out there. But soon there will be 2 more completed ones.
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Last edited by MPaulHolmes; 09-24-2009 at 11:53 PM..
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:01 PM   #2300 (permalink)
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[img]http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos4932/1/14/31/85/95/9/995853114115_0_ALB.jpg[img]http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/
I hope this is better.



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