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Old 04-28-2010, 01:48 PM   #3371 (permalink)
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Here's a scope shot of M+ and M- taken today on the hand held scope at 96v.

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Now, Cole, when you shift the gear and that little needle on the ammeter goes into the red and reads 2000 Amps, that's bad.
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Old 04-28-2010, 01:53 PM   #3372 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LouMan View Post
does anybody know how good the 2d boards are yet?
well everybody have fun.................
I dont believe that the firmware that Fran wote (V1.11b and prior) is compatable with the 2D board.

-Adam
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Old 04-28-2010, 02:11 PM   #3373 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamj12b View Post
I dont believe that the firmware that Fran wote (V1.11b and prior) is compatable with the 2D board.
Adam,

Do you know if the Rev.D controller firmware in the (controller2d.zip) file on the Wiki is current ?

How far out of sync is the Rev.D firmware to the current Rev.C firmware ?

Looking at the (controller2d.zip) code I can not tell if the extra I/O options on the Rev.D schematic have been added to the Rev.D firmware on the Wiki. I think the added Rev.D I/O was a Motor Speed Sensor, Battery Voltage Monitor, Cap Pre-Charger, Cooling Fan, and Extra A/D ???

- Mark

Last edited by sawickm; 04-28-2010 at 02:19 PM..
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Old 04-28-2010, 10:47 PM   #3374 (permalink)
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The Rev D boards are currently working in my car, which I have taken out on a few short trips, with no problems. The original boards had a couple of errors on them which have now been fixed in the latest files. I will update the files on the wiki tonight.

The latest firmware works well on these boards but as you said it doesn't implement the new hardware functions. I will eventually get around to modifying it when I finish my build, but it could be a few months off yet due to other commitments.

Don
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Old 04-29-2010, 11:55 AM   #3375 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcudogs View Post
The latest firmware works well on these boards but as you said it doesn't implement the new hardware functions.
Hi Don,

Thanks for your reply.

To understand you correctly, your using the V1.11b firmware on your Rev.D PCB right now?

The extra I/O hardware you added to the Rev.D PCB still needs to be programed into the current V1.11b firmware?

Was I correct about the new I/O you added to your Rev.D PCB?

1. Motor Speed Sensor
2. Battery Voltage Monitor
3. Cap Pre-Charger
4. Cooling Fan
5. Extra A/D

I have a question about your "etched" Power PCB. What is the weight of copper you are using on your G10/FR4 PCB?, 2oz, 3oz, 4oz, etc.....

Thanks again,

- Mark

Last edited by sawickm; 04-29-2010 at 12:52 PM..
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:35 PM   #3376 (permalink)
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Hello
Excellent work here.
I decided that I create this controller.
However, I wonder if I may use the LEM HAL400-S
Because I got this from an old UPS unit

I builting with IGBT
Do you used for each IGBT separate driver or you just link it together.
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Old 04-30-2010, 05:24 AM   #3377 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sawickm View Post
Hi Don,

Thanks for your reply.

To understand you correctly, your using the V1.11b firmware on your Rev.D PCB right now?

The extra I/O hardware you added to the Rev.D PCB still needs to be programed into the current V1.11b firmware?

Was I correct about the new I/O you added to your Rev.D PCB?

1. Motor Speed Sensor
2. Battery Voltage Monitor
3. Cap Pre-Charger
4. Cooling Fan
5. Extra A/D

I have a question about your "etched" Power PCB. What is the weight of copper you are using on your G10/FR4 PCB?, 2oz, 3oz, 4oz, etc.....

Thanks again,

- Mark
Mark,

Yes I am using the v1.11b firmware now. All of the version c inputs and outputs are using the same pins as this version. The extra hardware still has to be programmed in to a new version of the firmware.

The extra functions are
1. Motor Speed Sensor
2. Battery Voltage Monitor
3. A 2nd mosfet driver to drive a 12v load
4. Configurable Input A/D or opto isolated digital

The power board is 4 oz copper. Where the Cu is thinnest between the diodes and mosfets there is no solder mask and I run a thick bead of solder to improve the current carrying capacity.

Don
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Old 04-30-2010, 07:32 AM   #3378 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcudogs View Post
The original boards had a couple of errors on them which have now been fixed in the latest files. I will update the files on the wiki tonight.
Don,

Could you inform us when your updated Rev.D Controller PCB files are availible on the Wiki.

Thanks,

-Mark
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Old 04-30-2010, 08:34 AM   #3379 (permalink)
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Don,

Sorry to bug you again, but not much has been said about your Cougar controller and power PCBs. Those Rev.D files have been on the Wiki for months.

Quote:
The extra functions are:
1. Motor Speed Sensor
2. Battery Voltage Monitor
3. A 2nd mosfet driver to drive a 12v load
4. Configurable Input A/D or opto isolated digital
Are you using the 2nd mosfet drive to switch the Solid State relay for your Capacitor pre-charger? And the opto isolated digital output for your 150A 12V relay to switch your case cooling fans?

Quote:
The power board is 4 oz copper. Where the Cu is thinnest between the diodes and mosfets there is no solder mask and I run a thick bead of solder to improve the current carrying capacity.
How are you attaching your busbars to your Power PCB. Are you using silver epoxy like Paul, or are you soldering them to the PCB. Your websites optional service states "We will tin all 3 bus bars & sweat them onto your power board." How are you doing that? Are you reflowing solder paste to attach the busbars and PCB

Looking forward to your comments!!!

Thanks,

-Mark
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Old 04-30-2010, 09:46 AM   #3380 (permalink)
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Mark,

That web site is not mine, it belongs to a guy who was involved in the Australian group buy.

I don't use a precharge relay at all.

The cooling fans on my case are not controlled by the controller. They are switched on by a thermostat.

To solder the bus bars to the board you first tin them and the board, heat the bar until the solder flows and then clamp it to the board using a wooden jig to align the holes.

Another way is to put 2 lengths of thin resin core solder between the bar and the board line the holes up and place in the oven. When the solder melts, turn off the oven open the door and wait for it to cool.

Don

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