Piwoslaw's Peugeot 307sw modding thread

[tiderfish]

Great write ups! Have you finished or started work on the underbelly pan? To put my two cents into the problem covering your spare tire. You could cover the entire area, then cut out the part for the spare tire, and attach that piece to the tire's lug nuts or what ever is holding it up there. Then it will come down with the tire when you need it.

[Piwoslaw]

Originally Posted by tiderfish

Great write ups! Have you finished or started work on the underbelly pan? To put my two cents into the problem covering your spare tire. You could cover the entire area, then cut out the part for the spare tire, and attach that piece to the tire's lug nuts or what ever is holding it up there. Then it will come down with the tire when you need it.

Thanks, that's probably the way I'll go. Unfortunately, I haven't started the bellypan yet. I was hoping to get it done before winter (salt protection), but More Important Things pretty much ate all my free time. After my inspection I think I'll find out more about legal issues before doing any more big mods.

[Piwoslaw]

I found some info on my 1.6HDi engine's thermostat:

Thermostat starts to open at 83C and fully open at 97c

So, if my normal hypermiling temperature rarely exceeds 78°C, then my radiator should be luke warm (I'll have to remember to check that). Unless the temp sensor and/or Scan Gauge II are slightly off. A t-stat that starts to open around 90°C may not be available, since this is specifically for this engine, and comes in a big plastic housing, along with a temperature sensor and a bunch of hoses. Expensive overkill, if you ask me.

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by Piwoslaw

I found some info on my 1.6HDi engine's thermostat:

So, if my normal hypermiling temperature rarely exceeds 78°C, then my radiator should be luke warm (I'll have to remember to check that).

I rarely see 80°C in winter.
Max. in summer was 88°C, average 80-84°C.

Looks like we hardly need that radiator on these cars, even in summer, so blocking it off even more shouldn't be much of a problem.

[Piwoslaw]

Originally Posted by euromodder

Looks like we hardly need that radiator on these cars, even in summer, so blocking it off even more shouldn't be much of a problem.

That's exactly what I was doing while you were posting

A 10 minute job that should have been done long ago...
Sorry for the crappy light in the photos, but that's as light as it gets here lately, especially when it's snowing.
I just slid one edge of the clear plastic behind the license plate and the other edge under the hood. It's probably good as it is, but I'll add 2-3 screws under the hood, just for piece of mind.

I covered the lower slit of the upper grille since it is open on the radiator/intercooler side. The upper slit needs to be open for air intake (driver's side) and hood operation (middle), but I might have the plastic overlap the front of the hood on the passenger side to get better aero. I'll see if I can do it without interfering with opening the hood.

The plastic bulges out so that air can be sucked in through the sides if the fan comes on.

I'll see if my intake air temperatures rise now that the intercooler will be totally blocked. Now I can get full potential out of two two independant grille block openings and the wall between radiator and IC.

[Piwoslaw]

Wow! That upper grille block rocks! Here are some observations from today's ride (city driving around 50 km/h, some highway at 60-70 km/h):
The outdoor temperature was around 0-1°C, light drizzle. When leaving home the coolant temperature was pre-warmed to 40°C. After the first 10km from home the coolant temperature was stable at the usual 78°C (my normal temp, rarely more), then 2-3 stop lights and I was on the highway (70 km/h). Suddenly I noticed the temperature was 93°C! I never get more than 82-84°C after some stop & go and/or overpasses before the highway. When I slowed down the temperature dropped very slowly (much slower than usual) to about 88°C.

Also, intake air temps are way up: Usually they are 2-4°C above ambient, but today they were 15°C above! I'll add that my intake air temperature sensor is before the turbo, so opening the lower grille block's intercooler side won't change the reading. One day I'll have to put a temp sensor before the intake manifold to see how much of a difference blocking/unblocking the IC makes.

It looks like the new grille block's real advantage is not just blocking the radiator, but keeping air out of the engine bay.

[euromodder]

Did you spot any effect on FE ?

Try to make a gap in the grille block, or make some ducting to get the cold air to the intake, as the higher intake temps are not good for FE.

[Piwoslaw]

Originally Posted by euromodder

Did you spot any effect on FE ?

Can't say anything about FE during the last month other than "It sucks!" I'm lucky if I'm below 5.0 l/100km when I pull back into the driveway. It's because of a combination of the car being more or less frozen (pull the hand brake and it sticks for 10km), snow tires, snow everywhere, and the geometry (toe) of my front wheels being off. I've got to get the latter fixed before a longer trip comes up...

Originally Posted by euromodder

Try to make a gap in the grille block, or make some ducting to get the cold air to the intake, as the higher intake temps are not good for FE.

After the engine warms up I open the IC's part of the lower grille block, and that shouldn't contaminate the radiator with cold air now that the two are fenced off. But the AIT sensor is before the turbo and IC, and I wonder how the ECU handles that? I mean, does the intercooler undo what the turbo did, or does the ECU see 17° pre-turbo, but the air that makes it to manifold is 5°C, or maybe 25°C? The 1.6HDIs with an air doser/IC by-pass valve have a second temperature sensor, post IC, so that may help the ECU control combustion more efficiently. All the more reason to find and install one, but since my ECU wasn't programmed for one, then it probably won't be able to use/control it. Swapping an ECU from an engine with the air doser won't work, since those engines also have a DPF, and knowing how much trouble having a DPF is (not counting cleaner emissions, of course), I can't imagine what kind of thrills the ECU will sponsor if it can't find the DPF

If I do find a cheap working air doser, then I'll fool around with it manually. Then maybe a newer ECU and a DPF emulator? Let's not get carried away...

EDIT: Maybe a new, simpler air intake?

[akwroclaw]

> upper grille block

great!

I remember old Fiat 125p rubber grille blocks which were so masive

[Piwoslaw]

Here's a gem. I just found out that PSA finally has a 6-speed transmission for the 1.6HDi (until recently the 6-speed was with larger, more powerful engines). Actually, there appear to be a few versions, automatic, manual, and electronically controlled manual. If I have the correct info, the manual's code is 20EA01 and I found a Slovakian forum with gear ratios:

Gear ratios
1. speed 13/46
2. speed 25/48
3. speed 31/41
4. speed 40/39
5. speed 46/35
6. speed 52/31
Reverse 13/43
Permanent transfer of 19 x 74

Speed at various stages during 1000 rpm
20 EA 01
Tires 195/65 R15 205/55 R16 215/55 R16 (*) 225/45 R17 225/40 R18
1. rate 8.43 8.39 8.52 8.42 8.46
2. rate 15.54 15.47 15.71 15.22 15.59
3. rate 22.56 22.45 22.81 22.52 22.63
4. rate 30.60 30.46 30.94 30.55 30.70
5. rate 39.21 39.03 39.65 39.15 39.34
6. rate 50.05 49.81 50.60 49.97 50.21
Reverse 9.02 8.98 9.12 9.01 9.05
(*) CRD: Mounting tires for riding on a degraded terrain

Check that out: overdrive in 4th gear!!

The Milion Dollar Question is: Will the 20EA01 gearbox fit my engine? My 1.6HDi is from the first half of 2005 and since then has been reengineered to get more power (82kW vs my 80kW) and better emissions (EURO 5 vs my EURO 3), and to work with a second gen stop-start system.


Out of curiosity I searched for my trans' code and gear ratios, but that is much harder to find. Entering my car's VIN in Peugeot's ServiceBox I get that the final drive ratio is 19x72 and the gearbox's code may be any of the following:
"(DM7E) DM6J DM69 DM7E DM75
(DMF9) DMF9 DMG5 DM69 DM7E DM75"
whatever that means. Whether those boxes actually have different gearing or not is a mystery. I did find a list of speeds @1000rpm (from a Citroen Picasso forum), but with unknown tire size:

From CUK mph/1000rpm
1.6ltr hdi
1st = 5.48
2nd = 10.26
3rd = 16.57
4th = 23.51
5th = 29.06

For km/h that's
1st = 8.78
2nd = 16.42
3rd = 26.51
4th = 37.61
5th = 46.50

I'll have to check that one day. I asked around at my local Pug forum, but nobody's offering any info, like usual.