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Old 07-21-2013, 01:49 AM   #171 (permalink)
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The growing TO DO list on the Electric Booger is becoming quite long. My insurance will run out sometime in August, when I can hopefully tackle most of these things before the fall/winter commuting begins.

1. Vacuum accumulator - It does not have one right now, which means the vacuum pump runs for a second each time the brakes are applied. I would rather have it run for a few seconds after every 2 or 3 brake applications.

2. Vacuum pump indicator light - once the car is rolling, road noise is such that I cannot hear the vacuum pump. I will wire the [unused] engine oil light into the the vacuum pump circuit so I know exactly when it runs. I will then be able to react accordingly if I notice anything abnormal, indicating a vacuum pump failure.

3. Left door mirror - it is cracked. Has been this whole time. I am a procrastinator, what can I say....

4. Right axle - the right CV joint is clicking like crazy on left hand turns. Maybe I can use my leftover [unused] radiator as trade in value at the auto wrecker.

5. Battery monitoring - eBay parts are on their way for the new and improved system.

6. Battery hold downs - something better than my current tie down straps would probably be a good idea.

7. TPS potentiometer - I am getting very erratic throttle signals after the car sits for a day. After a few cycles of the accelerator pedal (before or after turning the car on) and it is fine. I am going to try some good electric contact cleaner, and if that doesn't work I will have to buy a new pot.

EDIT: DONE. http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post384998

8. Redundant throttle return spring - for safety in case the return spring in the pot box breaks.

9. Cooling fan - I cannot justify buying a new, bigger motor. So I will install forced cooling. I am thinking of using a marine bilge blower like this: Bilge Blower Buy 1 Get The Second 1 Free 12VDC 3" Opening | eBay

I can't decide how I will switch this fan on/off. Two options I am throwing around are:
a) epoxy a 165F (or so) thermal switch to a motor brush that turns the fan on once things get hot
b) switch the fan on/off with my [currently unused] pot box idle microswitch. The fan would turn on as soon as the accelerator is depressed.

Which is the better option??

10. Turn (machine) the commutator - in my great haste to get this thing on the road, I may have overlooked the fact that the comm is in in pretty rough shape. I am pretty sure it has a raised bar or two by the way the brushes move around when it is spinning and by the amount of noise they make. The brushes have lots of length left, so can I reuse those with a proper break in or will I need new ones?

EDIT: #9 & 10 are moot, as I am now going to install a different series wound motor into the car.

11. Heater core - barely any air comes out of my heater vents because the [unused] heater core is plugged solid with crap - dust, dirt, leaves, etc. Removal takes days - a very nasty job - so I will try to cut into the heater box to dissect it out of there without disturbing much else. There's no hole that duct tape cannot patch!

12. Tachometer - it would be cool to have it working. Maybe weld some pickup tabs on the motor coupler, install a passive magnetic pickup and wire it into the ex-distributor position sensor wiring? Should work.

13. Lower grill block - I cannot believe I haven't done this yet. That's all I have to say.....

14. Controller cooling fans - I have two small 12V fans all ready to go.

I will EDIT this list as it grows over time, as I know it will.


Last edited by mechman600; 08-13-2013 at 05:57 PM..
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:29 PM   #172 (permalink)
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Well, the ForkenSwift's twin motor is sitting here (kept it as a spare). 110 lbs series wound, built like a brick ... outhouse. Come get it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mechman600 View Post
The growing TO DO list on the Electric Booger is becoming quite long.
That's quite the list. I've stopped keeping lists... easier than solving pathological procrastination.

Quote:
the vacuum pump runs for a second each time the brakes are applied.
Funny - I never noticed the pump running when we went for a drive. Must not be horrifically loud. (FS really needs a pump too. Will get one if I turn it into a pusher.)

Quote:
Which is the better option??
I think a fan that ran every time I pressed the go pedal would bug me. What about a combination: thermo switch so it only runs when hot AND you press the pedal?

Quote:
13. Lower grill block - I cannot believe I haven't done this yet. That's all I have to say.....
I never have either - but the FS's average speed is likely ~20 km/h.
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Old 07-24-2013, 08:43 PM   #173 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Funny - I never noticed the pump running when we went for a drive. Must not be horrifically loud. (FS really needs a pump too. Will get one if I turn it into a pusher.)
It's actually very quiet. However, when it reaches "turn off" pressure, the relay chatters for a second. This is because when it turns off, the pressure drops slightly so it isn't actually quite high enough, so it turns on, which turns it off, which turns it on, etc. It does it a hundred times in a second and then it's done. Over time it caused my first relay to weld shut, so I had to replace it about a month ago. An accumulator placed between the pump and vacuum switch will solve this issue.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:19 PM   #174 (permalink)
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The vacuum switch that I use on the Electro-Metro has a two set-point system. It shuts off once it hits a certain level of vacuum, and then doesn't turn back on again until a lower certain amount of vacuum.

It's really nice for making the pump not constantly running or chattering right at the set point.
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Old 07-24-2013, 09:23 PM   #175 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennelson View Post
The vacuum switch that I use on the Electro-Metro has a two set-point system. It shuts off once it hits a certain level of vacuum, and then doesn't turn back on again until a lower certain amount of vacuum.

It's really nice for making the pump not constantly running or chattering right at the set point.
Mine too - a 3-4"HG spread between turn on and turn off. But....it still chatters. I think the placement of the switch (teed into the line between pump and brake booster) is an engineering flaw. The switch should be at the end with the pump teed in between it and the brake booster.
That gives me an idea...I should try that before I go and buy bits to make an accumulator.
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:56 PM   #176 (permalink)
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e-Booger upgrade in progress...



Just need to find one of those metal/plastic strap putter-onners to lash it to the pallet. Any suggestions? I wonder if the local UPS/Mailboxes store would have something.

EDIT: nope, they don't. But they put me on to another local shipping/transport company that can probably do it for me.
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Old 07-25-2013, 01:37 PM   #177 (permalink)
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I vote for bailing twine.
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Old 07-25-2013, 01:47 PM   #178 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
Just need to find one of those metal/plastic strap putter-onners. Any suggestions?
Go get some thick zip ties. Length is irrelavant because you can put zip ties end to end to get them the length you need. And use lots of them!
I will Paypal you ziptie money and send you the homemade beer you requested, although, it'll be a little while before it's ready!
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Old 07-25-2013, 01:49 PM   #179 (permalink)
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By the way, I'm honoured to be getting a Forkenswift motor.
Along the same lines as buying a car that used to belong to Jon Voigt.
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Old 07-25-2013, 02:04 PM   #180 (permalink)
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Seriously, zip ties?? Think that'll work? Better than bailing twine and/or duct tape?

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Ecodriving test: Manual vs. automatic transmission MPG showdown



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