Reviving a 2000 Honda Insight "beater"

[Red]

How hard is it to replace a syncro on a Honda trans? I have the FSM and a little background on partially rebuilding a VW Beetle trans in high school. Is it similar in nature in that you more or less torch/press whatever off and replace all thats worn? Figure a new syncronizer ring can't be that expensive

[LostCause]

I'd think messing with synchros would require specialized equipment (gear pullers, hydraulic press). There has to be a used insight transmission sitting in a junkyard near you...

I'd definately take the Insight to LA. $1500 bucks spent now is good insurance against gas rising during the next five years, especially if you will be making trips up to the bay area. LA freeways are generally fine off peak, but they blow during rush hour. Too bad the Insight doesn't have stealth mode, but the idle cut-off feature will still be useful.

The Insight will also be a great platform for a plug-in conversion. A few $500 Prius battery packs could probably get you into 100+mpg territory.

Sell the Jeep and get the Insight up and running. It's just a bad influence anyways...

- LostCause

[ttoyoda]

Red,
I suggest you change the clutch first and see how the tranny works after you do that.

I did a clutch job for a friend with a honda accord, and the clutch was worn but not quite slipping yet. The car had awful problems shifting, with a nasty, snappng sound. After we changed the clutch, all the shifting problems went away, the tranny was smooth as silk. The old clutch friction plate was worn down to the point where the brass rivets holding the friction material on had been rubbing on the flywheel and pressure plate. Somehow it must have been snagging/catching, although I cannot come up with a plausible explanation of WHY.

It would be a shame to spend time/money on tranny work if the worn clutch is the source of all the problems.

[ttoyoda]

I should also add, I had a different car with shifting problems, and it turned out that the little bellcranks on the end of the shifter cable at the transmission end had rusted onto the linkage coming out of the transmission. The bellcrank had partially torn the rubber isolator inside it in an effort to free itself. I ended up making new lexan isolators with lots of clearance both inside the metal part of the bellcrank and also around the pin of the transmission linkage. After that, it shifted like a brand new car. The sintered bronze bushing at the center of the old bellcranks were rusted onto linkage so hard that I had to melt them off with a torch.
If you just look at the linkage all put together it will look perfectly fine. Try taking it off the transmission and examine everthing very closely.

[Red]

There is one up about 1.5hrs away from me. Catch is that the 5spds are know for having a weak 2nd gear syncro and I don't know what condition that trans is going to be in. Don't want to risk $800 bucks and end up going full circle.

I know I know, especially with that other thread that just popped up with gas being around $4.50 in LA.

Hey now LostCause, the situation isn't that dire yet Heeps lost around $3k in value already due to gas prices, its all paid off, selling it would just a pain.

ttoyoda, well I should have the clutch maybe tomorrow or Monday? I'll find out then. I'm going to start prepping the Insight this weekend. The linkage has to come off too so I'll check out the bushings. Hopefully its something as nice and simple as that.

[ttoyoda]

Don't want to risk $800 bucks and end up going full circle.

I would think not!!! Last tranny I had to buy was for a datsun 210 in 1987 and that was $70 so I am a bit behind on the cost of junkyard trannys. If it comes to that it might be worth trying different fluids, I used to use dextron in a 1982 toyota starlet manual transmission that was supposed to use 90w gear oil and was always hard to get into first gear. The transmission outlasted the car.

Also, how are you getting the new fluid in the tranny? I made myself a tranny filler out of one of those old water filled stainless steel fire extinguishers that used to be everywhere. Cost $5 at the scrapyard, it was out of date. I put in some tranny fluid, pressurize to 20 psi (I have a guage on it) and just push the trigger. A 20 minute job becomes a 20 second job. Here is a pic of what I mean.

[ttoyoda]

From here:
http://bkhondaparts.com/billkay/jsp/...itch=&hidIrno=
I wonder if this is the part that has a bad rep.. sold all by itself.. maybe for a reason?

16 91212-PHR-003 DAMPER, FRICTION (SECOND) $11.94

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by ttoyoda

If it comes to that it might be worth trying different fluids, I used to use dextron in a 1982 toyota starlet manual transmission that was supposed to use 90w gear oil and was always hard to get into first gear.

The Suzukiclone transmissions also have weak 2nd gear synchros. My first one ground going up & down through 2nd. When I switched from 70w90 gear oil to a much lighter oil (approx 5w30 weight) the crunchiness lessened dramatically. Not perfect, but good.

[Red]

Originally Posted by ttoyoda

I would think not!!! Last tranny I had to buy was for a datsun 210 in 1987 and that was $70 so I am a bit behind on the cost of junkyard trannys. If it comes to that it might be worth trying different fluids, I used to use dextron in a 1982 toyota starlet manual transmission that was supposed to use 90w gear oil and was always hard to get into first gear. The transmission outlasted the car.

Also, how are you getting the new fluid in the tranny? I made myself a tranny filler out of one of those old water filled stainless steel fire extinguishers that used to be everywhere. Cost $5 at the scrapyard, it was out of date. I put in some tranny fluid, pressurize to 20 psi (I have a guage on it) and just push the trigger. A 20 minute job becomes a 20 second job. Here is a pic of what I mean.

Yeah I can easily try alot of fluid inside of $800 bucks.

Sick. No I use the old funnel and a long bit of plastic tubing to get to the fill holes.

[Red]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

The Suzukiclone transmissions also have weak 2nd gear synchros. My first one ground going up & down through 2nd. When I switched from 70w90 gear oil to a much lighter oil (approx 5w30 weight) the crunchiness lessened dramatically. Not perfect, but good.

Thats the weird thing about it, it only grinds going from 3rd->2nd. 1st->2nd no matter the RPM is a clean shift. Right now I'm running Redline MTL in it which is I think is a 70w-80 lube. Poking around HT and here shows that GM Syncromesh Friction Modified seems to help revive or give the syncros enough grip to work again.